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Published: February 24th 2011
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Hearing that the sights in Manila could easily be done in one day, that’s exactly what we planned for. None of us were interested in shopping so our plan was only to take in the sights. For those interested in shopping, I hear Manila is THE place to be, with amazing prices on textiles, clothing, and anything else you desire.
Coincidentally, the day we arrived, there was a terrorist attack on a public bus in Makati, killing several people and wounding many. Traffic was at a standstill and security measures were high.
Getting into town from the airport proved to be a difficult task. There were insanely long lines for metered taxis and flat rate taxis (I recommend the flat rate during peak traffic times). After 45 minutes of waiting in line, we finally got a taxi and were on our way, slowly but surely into the city. The ride was close to an hour with the terrible traffic, but we finally arrived.
We stayed at a wonderful guesthouse called Robelle House, located in Makati. Manila can be a bit overwhelming with large districts, traffic, and crime, so we put a lot of thought into where our hotel
should be located. Makati is known as a safer area (despite the terrorist attack in the area) so we decided on that. The Robelle House was fantastic; the grounds are beautiful, there’s a swimming pool, and they serve continental breakfast. Not to mention, they have a fabulous restaurant, reasonable prices, and extremely friendly staff. I definitely recommend this guesthouse to all visitors of Manila.
The following morning we awoke bright and early, ate breakfast at the hotel, and hopped into a taxi for a busy day of sightseeing. On our list we had: Baywalk, Chinatown, Rizal park, Manila Cathedral, and Intramuros. This felt like a lot to cram into one day but it turned out to be perfect.
Baywalk
Many people say that strolling on the Baywalk along Manila bay is a must do in Manila. I, however, was not impressed; perhaps it was the gloomy weather or the lack of things to see. Baywalk is a linear park that allows you to walk along the bay and see the harbor. The statues and other things to see were few and far between. Baywalk does make for a great starting point on your walking tour of Manila.
Continue walking along the Baywalk until you reach Rizal Park.
Rizal Park
Rizal park is also known as Luneta Park because it is shaped like a small half moon (after the Spanish word for moon). Historically, this park holds tremendous significance. Chiefly, Jose Rizal, an advocate of reform in the Philippines, was executed here in 1896. Later, in 1946, the Declaration of Philippine independence from rule of America was signed here. This is a tremendous park overlooking Manila Bay, with Intramuros in the background. Many gardens, statues, and important buildings are located here. Sadly, many of the gardens were closed but we were allowed to enter one, only after being warned, “There are mosquitoes, many mosquitoes, but they do not have malaria or dengue.” We wandered around this beautiful, overgrown, and abandoned garden for close to an hour. It was a bit eerie, seeing empty cages, and what once were butterfly gardens. Although many of the attractions in the park are closed, possibly never to be reopened, the park itself, along with its many monuments, make for an interesting and historic stroll in the city.
Intramuros
From Rizal Park it’s a short walk over to Intramuros,
the highlight (in my opinion) of Manila. Intramuros is the oldest section of Manila, meaning “inside the walls” in Spanish. This beautiful, historic, and very well preserved part of Manila used to be the entire city, surrounded by a three mile long protective wall. From 1571 to 1898, Intramuros was all of Manila. This was the center of town, and much of the historical architecture remains beautifully maintained (or restored), despite poor laws to regulate this in the past. Walking through Intramuros is the best way to see everything that it has to offer. Weave in and out of alleyways and for a brief time you’ll forget that you’re in the middle of a massive metropolitan city. You will be surrounded by striking brick buildings, fading churches, and old government buildings. I fell in love with this sector of Manila and highly recommend that everyone visits it.
The highlights of Intramuros include:
1. Fort Santiago: This is the former military headquarters; a massive building embodying classical Spanish architecture, while fading columns give it an eerie, aging look.
2. Manila Cathedral: This is the most important Catholic cathedral in all of the Philippines. Apparently it has been rebuilt seven times
since 1581 due to fires and other incidences. This cathedral is beautifully placed in the middle of a courtyard, in an “all eyes on me” fashion. Nothing in the near vicinity of the cathedral takes away from its beauty (or importance to the city).
3. San Agustin Church: A fantastic example of Spanish Baroque architecture, this church is a treat for any architecture buff. The high ceilings and altar, along with intricate paintings and carvings, are certainly worthy of praise. This church is said to be the oldest stone church in the Philippines, having survived WWII despite taking on a lot of damage.
4. Ruins of Intendencia and Ayuntamiento: These buildings, both rebuilt after the 1863 earthquake, housed the government and city council offices, respectively. Both buildings are in bad shape, with Ayuntamiento serving as a parking lot, and Intendencia in severe need or repairs. However, for anyone interested in Spanish colonial government or architecture, these are a delight to see.
Chinatown
Chinatown, located in Binondo, is a bit far from the other sights, so hop in a jeepney or taxi to get yourself here. Manila is reputed to have one of the largest Chinatowns in the world.
After feeling the excitement of Chinatown in Kuala Lumpur, I was a bit disappointed with the one Manila. It was extremely hectic, dirty, and chaotic and didn’t have the warm and vibrant feeling that I expected it to have. Instead, street vendors, textile stores, and food shops lined the streets, with crowds of people busily rushing by. There was little about this area to clue you into the fact that it was Chinatown, aside from the several dim sum restaurants. However, if you can spare the time, stroll through the streets and watch some of the local vendors and food stall operators.
One of the main sights in Chinatown is the Binondo Church, which was constructed in 1596. It proudly stands at a busy intersection, surrounded by massive knots of power lines. We were not able to go inside, but it is definitely another example of Spanish colonial architecture that survived the test of time.
Overall impressions of Manila
In terms of large cities in SE Asia, I was much more impressed with Kuala Lumpur than Manila. At times, Manila felt a bit sterile to me, not as happening and exotic as Kuala Lumpur.
I do
have a few observations:
- The people here are beautifully friendly, and extremely proficient in English. There is no need to worry about a language barrier here; English is practically the first language in the Philippines. People are so warm and helpful; it definitely made the trip to Manila much more pleasurable.
- Crime: Yes, it exists here so take precautions. There is no need to go out of your way to stay safe, and don’t feel like you must avoid Manila altogether, but do be wary. Don’t wear flashy jewelry and keep an eye on your belongings. Be mindful of where you go after dark. Other than that, enjoy.
- Guns are everywhere: Don’t be alarmed when you see guards at McDonald’s, Dunkin Donuts, Banks, gas stations, Starbucks, and street corners, all armed with massive guns. Although I didn’t see anything worth worrying about, apparently there is a lot of crime, so these are precautionary measures.
- Unless you have a special interest in Spanish colonial history or architecture, one full day is plenty of time in Manila.
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Jason Smart
Some great photos, and like you, we did Manila in a day (and some shopping too!).