Heaven is a stone's throw from Hell

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I can't see why the Lonely Planet says Cebu City is nicer than Manila. Arriving on a rainy Saturday afternoon, I found it dull and depressing. I walked from the pier to town, not stopping and staying alert. A woman sleeping on the sidewalk with a child lifted her head and looked me over as I crossed the street. She gave up, relaxing onto her makeshift pillow and cardboard carton mat. People stare, you look different, you have money, teenage boys taunting, "Hey, Joe”.

I found a place to stay just as the afternoon rain set in. I researched my next destination on the internet and in the evening I spent a boring half hour in a noisy, empty karaoke bar with a litre of Red Horse strong beer. Returning to the pension house, there was a mad Scot in the lobby with a half full (not half empty) bottle of cheap brandy. He checked I was not an American before offering drink and conversation. I was invited out for Sunday night.

The rain was heavy in the morning, another depressing day in Cebu City and my plan to go for a walk in the mountains was cancelled. I couldn't find a local eatery that looked appetizing and went to Jollibees for breakfast. There was a college across the street and the fast food restaurant was fairly buzzing with students, I don't know why, it was Sunday. The security guard looked unhappy, watching all these kids spending good money on junk food. I felt the same, we didn't belong in this place. I was then convinced to get out of town, never mind Mango Avenue, the cheap booze and GROs (Girlfriend for Rent Overnight).

My backup plan was Olango Island, not far away, but Cebu City was not going to let me escape so easily. First I had to catch a Jeepney across town, it was full and I had to stand on the back. Next, I caught a van across the bridge to Lapu Lapu city on Mactan Island. I got out near the market and as the van drove away I realised my wallet was gone, lost or stolen? I have learned to keep only petty cash in my wallet and the loss was small, about 700 pesos. Still, losing my wallet put me in a foul mood.

I was given wrong directions and boarded a jeepney to Cordova at the southern end of Mactan. A young man in the Jeepney was handing out Christian propaganda, something about how to find Jesus. I bluntly refused his leaflet and proceeded to draw him into an argument about who was Jesus and other things that do not matter to God botherers. Faith is blind.

People at Cordova were not too helpful and the tricycles were marauding. Stubborn and persistent, I walked down to the jetty in the drizzling rain and sure enough it was the wrong place to catch a pump boat across to Olango. Another Jeepney took me back to Lapu Lapu and this time the driver short-changed me by 30 pesos. I complained, he bluffed. Speaking aloud for everyone to hear, I reminded him that God is watching all we do, good and bad. This put the fear in him and he produced the correct change with an ashamed apology.

Back in Lapu Lapu some young kids tried begging, I chased them off with my umbrella. After a few tries I found a tricycle to take me to Angasil at a fair price. There was a pump boat with passengers waiting to leave and the day was looking brighter. The sky was still overcast but there was no rain. By afternoon I was birdwatching.

Olango Island Wildlife Sanctuary is really a wetland sanctuary, with good numbers of migratory shorebirds and little other wildlife. There is no beach. They have tents for hire and a rainwater tank, all I need. The staff are relaxed and helpful and they like having visiting birdwatchers. When I left Olango I proceeded directly to Cebu international airport on Mactan island.

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Photos

Down and out in Manila
Cebu City is similar.

Heaven
No noise, no traffic, no crowds, clean water, fresh air. Olango Island Wildlife Sanctuary.