Banaue-Hapao Rice Terraces

---

We couldn’t have asked for better weather today. The sun was shining but there was a cool breeze to keep the temperature at a perfect level.

Tour guide Jay met us in the morning and we headed to the first lookout point over the rice terraces close to Banaue city center.

At the second look out the view is the same photo you will find on the 1000 peso bill. A man who usually works in the field was dressed up in his local tribal clothing in hopes to make a few extra pesos having pictures taken. We were shown a traditional house that people used to live in. Animal skulls were hung on the outside which signifies wealth. When you butchered an animal you’d share it with others in your village.

At the third look out there were 4 ladies dressed in traditional clothing also there for photos. They were so funny. You’d sit down with them for a photo, and when the photographer counted to three they’d all start giggling. One lady is totally blind, and over 100 years old.

After driving down a really wet muddy road we started our trek into the rice terraces. Walking along concrete pathways we were able to walk right through the terraces.

Jay pointed out the highest mountain peak in the municipality called Mount Napulawan. Towering at 2642 meters above sea level the mountain was used as a refugee camp of the Japanese during the American vs. Japanese war. Access to this mountain is a matter of 8-9 hours from Hapao. The Americans had a base in Banaue. All the rice terraces in the Hapao region were destroyed by the Americans trying to bomb the Japanese.

The irrigation system they use is really smart. When it rains the trees collect water. When the ground starts to dry the trees release their excess water into the ground. The locals have put pipes in the ground to collect the water that then goes into their irrigation system to supply the rice terraces.

In the rice terraces you will find fish, snails and even clams. Within the walls of the terraces you will find snakes, sometimes cobras.

Both women and men take turns with the rice chores. Women clean the terraces. Once that is finished men will cultivate the soil and fix any broken walls. Women then plant baby rice. During the 6 month waiting period they plant other things such as sweet potato. Women will harvest the rice by cutting it with a small knife and put them into bundles. Men then carry the rice home. Sometimes this can be a very long distance and they have to make many trips.

The difference between the two terraces are: Banaue terraces have clay walls, where Hapao terraces have stone walls.

The walk was really beautiful and our guide Jay was very informative. We visited a Bogyah natural hot springs where many locals were bathing. We also stopped at his uncle’s house in the middle of the terraces for a quick rest and drink.

From all the rain the dirt road had turned into slick mud. Vehicles and bikes were stalling and spinning their tires. Keep in mind the roads are only big enough for one vehicle, so at some point we had to turn around and go back to where we could move over to the side far enough to let a bus go by.

By the end we were ready to call it a day as our guide was starting to smell a little ripe. It was easier for me to stick my nose under Tristan’s armpit then to stand the waft of Jays.

Tomorrow we are up very early to go trekking to the Batad Terraces.

---