Karachi - First Impressions

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I arrived in Karachi Pakistan last Saturday. It has been an exotic whirlwind. I am completely overwhelmed with what I have seen and what I have learned. First of all, I like Karachi…liked it from the first moment. This is a very large city - some 15 million. And the city has a huge footprint. After flying all night from Nairobi with only an hour stop over in Dubai (I’ll be spending a couple of days on my way home), I arrived in Karachi at about 11 am. The airport is modern, under construction - as is most of Karachi and very efficient. I was through customs in no time and was very pleased to see my bag waiting for me. I was promptly met by a driver. By the way, I am getting way to used to this rock star treatment! And it was off to the Karachi Sheraton - about a 30 minute drive. So here are my first impressions - this is a city on the move - literally, often 3 and 4 to a motorcycle. Roads and overpasses are under construction. I counted 7 cranes on the way to the hotel. And the buses and tuk tuks are painted a la nights of Arabia - wonderfully colorful and dramatic. Karachi is flat and very concrete. The military is very present - naval and army barracks are proudly situated in the middle of the city and have grand entrances. Interestingly enough the military is revered and the police are viewed as corrupt. Like Nairobi - this is the land of the traffic circles. And also like Nairobi - it is aggressive zen driving here. No room for the timid here and you just go with the flow - lanes mean nothing! And there are motorbikes everywhere. The women often in Burkhas ride side saddle. I don’t think I could do that! And no - no women bike riders - cars yes, bikes no.

I also arrived on the day before Ramazan (yes with a z - z is pronounced like dah in Arabic - hence why we think it is Ramadan) - the month of atonement. This is the holiest months of the islam calendar. A time for prayer, fasting, reflection and charity. Muslims fast from day break to sunset - and that is nothing to eat and nothing to drink. And alcohol is illegal during the month. So it is a dry 3 weeks for this chica. The breaking of the fast is called Iftar - and there are wonderful buffets at restaurants for this special time. My hosts and the hotel have been wonderfully accommodating. They are respectful of non-muslims and have made sure that I don’t get dehydrated and hungry. I am grateful as it is extremely hot here - 40 plus and humid. I’ve not experienced heat like this!

I initially thought that I would partake in the fast but I had to relent after a half day tour of Aga Khan University on Monday - I nearly fainted due to the heat and was very grateful to have some water. I have been treated like a distinguished guest and have had the opportunity to meet with several faculty heads and administrative heads of both Aga Khan University and Aga Khan Hospital in the last 3 days. This is an amazing complex -- a centre of excellence and an oasis in the concrete jungle of Karachi. The architecture is stunning and the red stone and marble (deliberately chosen for health care) really distinguishes the campus. The gardens and lake on the campus also add to the ambience of peace and reflection. The beautiful surroundings inspire aspiration.

I toured a community health center in a shanty town yesterday and again was struck by the contrast and the poverty. Sanitation and disease are huge issues in Karachi. Upwards of 70% of the population would live in a shanty town environment. The literacy rate is very low - around 50%. There is no free or universal education here. Mothers with babies and the maimed and handicapped walk and hobble amongst the traffic jams looking for donations. It is heart wrenching. So while I see a city undergoing expansion and progress - it is a city also grappling with extreme poverty and suffering. I head to Islamabad and the northern regions tomorrow. I look forward to gaining more insights into the urban and rural lifeof Pakistan. This is a rich culture and a young country (created in the 1940’s). I have enjoyed amazing hospitality and have felt safe and secure at all times. My head is full of million images and thoughts as I take it all in. I promise to share these with you once I am able to sort out and get them to page. Take Care, Jan

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