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Even though I describe the streets as full of desperation, I am fascinated every time we drive through the streets. Most of the photos that you’ll see are taken from inside the car. Our favorite driver, Saleh Mohammed, is from an area called Mansehra. Most of his relatives lost their homes in the earthquake. Sali Mohammed gets us from point A to B in a hurry. Weaving in and out of traffic as the lines on the roads don’t apply here in Karachi. Saleh Mohammed uses the horn to notify vehicles ahead that we are coming up behind. We’ve noticed that on average, Pakistanis do not use helmets for their motorcycles, though you will see some young and modern men using them. Those guys usually have fancier bikes and they are wearing jeans and leather jackets. I’ve seen up an entire family on a motorcycle zipping through the streets, the father, mother in burka and her 3 kids, with no helmets. Surprisingly enough, there are few accidents on the streets of Karachi. We did see a small Toyota pulled over on the side of the highway…it’s hood just up and fell off the car. The most popular vehicles here are Toyotas and Suzukis. If you drive a flashy vehicle, you are drawing too much attention to yourself.

Even though middle and upper class societies exist here, there are many slums in Karachi. Considering we really only have East Hastings to compare in Vancouver, times that by almost the entire country. These areas are lacking in electricity, plumbing and running water. There are many people fighting heroin addictions as it is readily available since the Pakistan neighbors the top producing country, Afghanistan. The streets are lined with transvestites, yes, we have seen men wearing lipstick. The transvestites are considered outcasts, but one will find plenty of them wandering the streets knocking on your car window, begging for money. Many families use their children to beg. It is a vicious cycle, parents can’t afford children, but the more children you have means the possibility of more money coming home. Education regarding birth control and STD’s, is lacking. There are many non-government organizations attempting to educate the people, but progress has certainly been a challenge.

The province we are in is named Sindh. We are staying in a well developed residential area. The people living in this neighborhood are mostly foreigners with contracts, working for the Aga Khan University or one of the many consulates located in Karachi. This house has marble floors, air conditioning and full-time security. The average salary for a Pakistani is the equivalent of $100 Canadian per month, and that must support the entire family. Both males and females work. A respectable job for a male is a driver, and most women take a cleaning job. These workers commute an average of 2 hours each way by bus, since they live in villages away from the city. We have seen women as hostesses in restaurants, but you won't see them as servers, men only. Service in restaurants is great, there are about 4 servers assigned to each table. You don't get that at home!

Today we ate the lunch buffet at the Sheraton Hotel. Well, my tummy was a little upset, so I just nibbled on a muffin…Since Galib & I visited last year, security at the hotel has been stepped up a notch. Now the Sheraton has a metal barricade in front of the entrance to the hotel and each car is searched by 2 guards before they are allowed to proceed. The guards check under the hood and in the trunk. It is believed that the bomb got through in the Marriot Hotel because the explosives were in the interior of the car…where they are not checking. Mirrors are used to check under the car when it arrives and departs. Your bags and purses are placed through the x-ray machine and you pass through a metal detector…all this just to have lunch! It is a different way of daily living. Without the news, you wouldn't even realize that there were bombings last week. No one seems fearful. Galib & I were commenting on how life continues on as usual and we feel safe enough.

Seeing the daily grind here makes us appreciate the freedom we have in Canada. Let’s not take it for granted.

Til the next Blog,
Cin & Galib

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