Tibet

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After returning from the community work in Lubhu, we had one free day in Kathmandu before beginning our 10 day tour of Tibet.
On the day of our departure we were up early to leave from the hotel at 6am and start the 4 hour drive to the Tibet border. As we grew close, we could see the Tibetan border town in the distance, and the influence of the Chinese authorities was very clear by the bland, concrete uniformity and regularity of the buildings' appearance, a huge contrast from the Nepali buildings I have grown used to. When we eventually arrived, the whole process of crossing the border was very lengthy and made very official by the Chinese authorities. As we crossed the border, which was marked by a red line on the ground in the middle of the Friendship Bridge, we had to show our pasports to a very serious looking Chinese soldier on guard- then once across the bridge, we had to go through Chinese customs - like at an airport, and have our bags checked nof once, nof twice, but three times! (twice through an X-ray machine and once opened and searched by guards). The customs building was so shiny and modern looking, and it was really strange seeing local Tibetan and Nepali people carrying huge loads in sacks on theif backs through these checks - they looked so out of place. I would see many more of these strange clashes between the Tibetan traditional way of life, and the more modern Chinese regularity and order as we traveled further into the country.
By the time we had got through customs, met our guide and driver, and found our tour bus (which we were very pleased about - it was a
big coach with enough seats for two each between the nine of us and
we had lots of leg room, which was just as well as we would be doing
a lot of driving over the next ten days!) it was already 1pm Nepali time, but since Tibet is two hours ahead, it was 3pm and we still hadn't had lunch!
We spent the rest of the day driving to Nyalam - a town near the border where we had to stop so we could acclimatise to the height - I think it was about 4000m there, and we would go higher. As we drove
through the mountains it started to snow! None of us were prepared
for how cold it would be on that first night - Basant had told us 10C (no chance!!) it was almost as bad as trek again - we were cold even with all our clothes and blankets on! The next morning as we settled on the bus for a day of driving, most of the others had their sleeping bags with them to keep warm!
Our next stop was Shigatse (the second largest town in Tibet) where it was significantly warmer, and with a much more comfortable hotel! The drive was about 8 hours - but I didn't get bored as it was amazing just watching all the changing mountain scenery go by. There were some areas where the rock was so sandy in appearance that it
seemed as if we were driving through a desert ( I guess it did used to be the sea floor before the tectonic movement forced the material up). On the way we stopped at two high passes - the highest was 5482m (I think) where we added our prayer flags to the many already draped there and scattered paper flags into the wind. The altitude was very noticable, and we could all find ourselves getting short of breath just walking around (it was also very cold). We were lucky that the weather was so clear that day, as we were also able to see Mount Everest from a distance several times - I got very excited!
The following day was mainly spent sightseeing. In the morning we walked to the Ta Shi Lhun Po Monastery in Shigatse. Out of all the monasteries we visited on the trip, this was definitely my favourite. Walking through the narrow cobbled streets of the monastery complex was like walking onto a film set, or back in time, and when we stepped into the first chapel, I was amazed by a huge golden Buddha statue looming high above me. There is something very powerful about how
the eyes are painted - it is easy to see why people worship such Buddhas. What I also loved about this monastery (and all the other palaces and temples we visited) was the bright colours and patterns used to decorate every spare part of wall or ceiling inside. If they weren't covered by bright paintings of gods, they were covered by brightly coloured cloth drapes and offerings. Unfortunately I couldnnt take photos inside without paying a large amount in most places we visited, but I don't think photos would have fond it justice anyway. As we walked around, our guide explained to us more about Buddhism and about the Dalai and Panche Lamas. He told us later about how he had to be careful what he said inside the monasteries, as some of the monks were Chinese officials in disguise who would stop him from being a guide if he said something he wasn't meant to. For example there are actually two current Panche lamas (one appointed by the government and one by the Dalai Lama, but he is only meant to mention the government appointed one.
It was strange walking through the modern, ordered, paved streets of Shigatse ( which even had traffic lights!), and passing traditional horse drawn carts on the roads, and traditionally dressed Tibetan women- another clash of the two cultures and ways of life.
After visiting the monastery in Shigatse, we drove for about two hours to Gyantse - our next stop, where we visited a temple with an interior very similar to what we had seen in the monastery.
We spent the night in Gyantse, and the next morning began the long drive to Lhasa - the biggest town in Tibet, and it's capital. This time the drive was broken up by stops at two huge lakes (one was artificial and used fof hydropower, while the other - the bigger of the two by far, was natural). The views of both were amazing with the mountains in the background and the bright blue lake and sky. We also stopped at a hugs glaciated mountain which was very impressive, and just before Lhasa, crossed the highest river in the world!
We stayed in Lhasa for 3 nights, and in that time visited the Potala Palace (previously home to the king, and then the Dalai Lama), the Jhokang temple in the middle of old Lhasa, one of the biggest monasteries in Tibet, and the only nunnery in Lhasa. We also had time to ourselves to explore the city, and try haggling with the Tibetan stall holders, who are slightly more violent than those in Nepal - members of the group were grabbed and even smacked at various points to make them buy! Walking through the old part of the city on the first night, I was struck be the similarities to Kathmandu in the layout of the shops, but everything was much calmer and controlled, and the constant presence of soldiers ensured this. The wider, modern roads of the new city, were a strange cross between western roads (with traffic lights and pedestran crossings) and Nepali roads (people generally not indicating, sometimes driving on the wrong side of the road, and greatly overcrowded means of transport - a bike with three people on it!)
I definitely grew to like the city though and was sad to have to leave for the long journey back (the same route with less stops). It was definitely my favourite city in Tibet, with good street noodles too!
Before going back to Kathmandu we stayed one night in the luxurious Last Resort (just beyond the border on the Nepal side). The resort is a place where you can go to relax and take part in adrenaline sports such as Bungy jumping, canyoning, a canyon swing (where you jump off the same bridge as the bungee, then free-fall for 100m before swinging at 150km/h!) I didn't do any of these (all too expensive and scary sounding - the only one which might have tempted me had I had more money would have been canyoning) but three of the group did the canyon swing - crazy people! And three others fid canyoning (which they all loved). Despite the slightly grey and rainy weather (especially on the first day) the resort was a lovely place and we had a very relaxing two days. On the morning before we left I had a Swedish massage which left me feeling floppy and relaxed for a few hours after - very nice!
We stayed in glorified tents which were very comfortable and didn't really feel like tents (we slept in beds and could easily stand up, and there was an electric light!) Meals were also an all you can eat buffet, which was quite expensive, but therd was no other option, so we made the most of this unlimited food - I don't think I've been as full as I was the whole time I've been in Nepal so far! To top it all they had cornflakes and museli for breakfast!!

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Photos

Our first stop in Tibet.
This road is near the border and we stopped here on the first day for lunch.

On the bus on the first morning.
It was very, very cold so we were all wearing all of our clothes, and some of us even got into our sleeping bags!!

The mountain landscape.
I found it very strange as some parts looked more like a desert than mountains.

EVEREST!!!
It's the tall pointy one!

The sign to Base Camp.
We were that close!!

Me throwing paper prayer flags.
You make a wish as you throw them.

The restaurant where we ate on our first stay in Shigatse.
Probably one of the best ones we visited too!