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Published: March 14th 2006
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Hi again,
The other side of the Friendship Bridge, that connects China (Tibet) and Nepal, is a whole different world. Land crossing between countries do tend to soften the effect of shock that comes from the change, mostly because of the busy border towns that are a mix of both sides, but still after the long period of time under the Chinese flag I felt the huge difference. The people looked different, the smells are different, the street stalls are different, and driving is on the opposite side of the road.
We continued in our Chinese bus, and the driver decided to drive on the right side, clearing the way only when another vehicle arrived front of him. Considering the winding road and the deep gorge to the side of the road - it was scary.
The green scenery remained throughout the drive, a rapid river below us, green hills with villages and terraces around us, and i was sitting there enjoying the new views of the way to Kathmandu.
We arrived there in the afternoon, and the difference was apparent. The number of tourists I saw on the street in the first day is larger the number of tourists I
A Hindu temple
And no, this is not a Nazi sign... met in five months in China. Sings in English language and some other languages as well, travel agencies for foreigners, people approaching you on the street and offering you deals for trips, hotels, drugs, and many more. Restaurants with western style food - pizzas, steaks, pastas, hamburgers... Pubs and clubs for the night time. A totally different world.
I spent the first few days relaxing, taking a first shower in a month in running water, eating, bowling, going to a casino, gathering information on the trekking, rafting, bungee, mountain climbing, but in general - didn't do anything.
Later I checked out about fixing my broken camera. When I realized it was impossible - I bought a new one. Ouch! I also developed twenty rolls of film of my SLR camera.
Only after five days in the city I went to see the first touristic spot there. The Durbar Square, which is the main square that is full of temples and statues, most of them from the 17th-18th centuries, while people are living their regular busy life around them. The visit began with a sneaking operation from the guards asking for money - a mission every tourist to Kathmandu has tried.
Legendary stone inscription
Written in 1664 on the palace wall, in 15 languages. Milk will flow through the hole if anybody reads all of it. The square is nice, crowded and busy, and gave me a chance to have a closer look at the difference between Hindu and Buddhist temples. Nepal is the only Hindu kingdom in the world, and most people in Kathmandu practice this religion, including the Tika on the forehead, statues covered with a red mixture of yogurt, rice, and flowers, etc.
The next day we went to Patan, a different city that cannot really be distinguished from Kathmandu itself. The local Durbar Square had some more temples and statues scattered around, and after yet another sneaking operation we found the famous temple with the famous "stone bird". There is a famous song in Hebrew about this bird (which is real life is made of bronze...). Gali Atari sings that when the stone bird who is captured as a statue in the temple will finally fly to the sky, there will be world peace, no more crime, only love and happiness, and many other amazing things. The carved elephants will also be able to move and walk down to the fountain in front of them and drink its water. Many locals know this song and sing it in Hebrew, and lead the
Statue in the square
Covered with the red mixture they put on everything - a mixture of yogurt, rice, and other stuff...
(Notice the huge erection he has!) tourists to the bronze made "stone bird"...
Some more time was spent writing a recommendation letter to a good friend who applied to an MBA program in a leading school in the US (by the time I write these lines we already know he got accepted and he is leaving us soon - congratulations!).
Even though I spent too much time in Kathmandu and it started to bore me, I had to wait a little longer to the main event. The Jewish new year is celebrated each year in Kathmandu in a huge forum of more than 600 people, being led by Chabad House. It is always in the peak season of tourism in Nepal, and for that reason the celebration is very popular.
In reality - the event was quite disappointing, though a happy one. The Rabbi decided that he doesn't want the people celebrating new-year to envy the people celebrating Passover (which also falls in the peak tourist season of April), so he asked everybody to sing the popular Passover song "ECHAD MI YODEA", after explaining that nowhere it is stated that this song is only for Passover!
I found myself singing "ECHAD MI YODEA", a Passover song, during ROSH-HASHANA (new year's day) and looking for the candid camera...
Later that night there was a big party with a lot of Israeli music and many drunk and stoned Israelis. Real fun!
The next morning I could finally get back to action.
And that is for next time.
R.
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Slovo
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Better late then never
Great reading your journal, as ever, and thanks again for your great work.