Nepal - Yoga and Bhaktapur

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Our second day started the same as the first: a 90 minute chill yoga session. Speaking of chill, we would start at 6:30 am and the room was cool having not been heated overnight. Gradually it would warm up, but there were just these amazing views of the surrounding mountains which made the session that much more spiritual.

Our breakfast was great each day, with full options. It was too cold to sit outside, but the indoor rooftop restaurant had plenty of windows to see the views. Speaking of, the night before when we returned, many of us went up to have a night cap. It looked like there was an engagement party though - lots of people in fancy traditional clothes. So we went to the little bar to the side and had a drink outside beneath the heaters before going to bed.

Bhaktapur

After breakfast, we returned to our rooms to shower and pack, then we checked out. From here our shuttle took us to the city of Bhaktapur, another UNESCO World Heritage site. At first, I didn't know what to expect as we walked along the streets from the municipal building... but... WOW. I think we were all completely shocked once we reached the city and were anxious to be off to take photos!
First though, our guide had us stop just by the entrance where we got the "King Curd", their staple dish. It was sweet frozen yogurt like. I had a little taste and it was nice. Then when we got inside, he corralled us to go over some of the history first. Some of the group you could see were just itching to get photos! But I was very interested in the history of the site as I knew almost nothing about this place.

Until 1774, Nepal was made up loosely of 54 small countries. Bhaktapur is known as the City of Devotees and was the former capital of Nepal until the country was split into three. It was separate from the other three capitals, Kathmandu and Patan, and is mainly made up of the Newar people. Because of its being somewhat separate, you won't see the types of monuments found here anywhere else. There are three main squares: Durbar, Taumadhi, and Pottery.

At the entrance where we were stopped, the guide pointed out two large sculptures that were made in 1701. The king hired the best sculptor in the land to create them and then his hands were cut off so he could not recreate them. Apparently, he was paid well.... A pagoda just inside was our first photo op and was made up of the typical Indian architecture; it had been renovated after the devastating 2015 earthquake. So, we got some individual and group photos within Durbar Square, and had a small amount of free time. I enjoyed seeing so many intricate designs, such as the doors (I love doors apparently!) and wood accents. However, we were in such a hurry because we only had limited time before we had to make our way back to the airport for our rapid PCR tests. It would have been nice to be able to enjoy this beautiful city over a full day!

Anyway, we next made our way to the Taumadhi Square, which was dominated by a beautiful 5-story temple. It is one of only 3 5-tiered temples in Nepal. Again, some of us waited to take pictures while listening to our guide explain some history. The Nyatapola Temple was built in 1701 and survived two massive earthquakes. It is dedicated to the Siddhi Lakshmi, mother deity of the Newar people. The stairs to the temple are lined with five pairs of guardians, each pair stronger than the pair below. The bottom pair are two wrestlers, Jai and Pratap, who are supposedly the strongest of men. The next pair are elephants, then Singhas (large cats), two Sardulas (griffins), and finally two Tantric deities Simhani and Viyaghrani. There are 330 million gods and goddesses (whoa!). There is a smaller, 'male' temple built adjacent to Nyatapola and built 16 years afterwards. It is original Nepali architecture and has a 'long highway to heaven' as part of its design feature. I walked up the stairs and was rewarded with some great views of the surrounding mountains; however, our guide informed us that those are not mountains! They are only 2,700m! In Nepal, they must be 5,000m to be considered mountains!

Next we made our way to the Pottery square where we stopped to observe some of the people creating some of their beautiful pottery. They collect the mud from the river bank, shape it, and then place it in the sun to dry over three days. We got to observe the process in various stages of completion. We were given 15 minutes to do some shopping. Initially, I watched the guy at the pottery wheel, but then made my way to the art store where about half our group was looking at the pieces. The store was affiliated with a school, so they had pieces by the "master", which were insanely expensive, but very nice. The others were made by the "students" and were clearly based on templates and just varied in colors and minor details. I wanted to buy a couple of the student drawings, and was assured they took credit cards. But the machine was not working. I felt somewhat bad, but no, I did not want to go to the atm to take out more cash when were leaving in just a few hours. Oh well.

Then we joined the rest of the group at a roof top lunch next to the Nyatapola temple. Unfortunately, the food took FOREVER to come. The guides explained that with Covid and the reduced tourism, most places do not have their usual staff of workers so it was just two people serving us, so it overwhelmed them; one of our guides even joined them in the kitchen to assist. Fortunately, the food was delicious. Me and two other guys had ordered a vegetarian Thali and it was yummy, with just the right spice.

Pashupatinath

After leaving Bhaktapur, we made our way to the airport where we had to wait and then get our PCR test. We were supposed to wait at the airport for the results, and many opted to stay at one of the coffee shops (which never brought me drink....of course). About 7 or 8 of us decided to go with the guide to an optional site, but one that was a bit morbid. I get teased by certain people about finding cemeteries a ... well, sometimes, a nice place to go (what can I say? They're usually clean and peaceful!). So, I was interested in going to where they did their death ritual and, yes, burned the bodies. We entered the temple park and walked along the river. Immediately, you could see across the river that funeral pyres were being set up and the bodies burned. Three of our group turned back and returned to the airport; they could not stand the smell, the smoke and I think the macabre experience. The rest of us already knew and appreciated what we had gotten into. No judgment I think from any of us. It was not an easy excursion, but I appreciated the experience.

So, people come from all around to perform funeral rites for their loved ones here as it is the main temple and along the holy river (which was very polluted and full of trash, I may add). 90 percent of the population gets cremated, both Buddhist and Hindi, except for very young children, which are buried first. We watched one of beginning parts being performed as the priest from the Brahmin caste and his assistants washed the feet and head of the dead. The people who do this work come from a long line of family who have always performed this ritual. After washing, they deliver them to a designated pyre where family are waiting to observe the cremation. It was very sobering to see, but also peaceful. I don't think I spoke a word the whole time.

In addition to the cremation, there is also the main city centre area with its old buildings, which a few visited afterwards. But first, we walked through the park on the east side of the river. You could see small little pagodas and these highly decorated "priests", who require a sum of money before getting their photos taken. There were lots of small monkeys, lots and lots of people, and amazing views of the city below in the sunset. So, even though it was not the most exciting place we visited, it was an unforgettable experience.

We got back to the airport, got our results and said goodbye to our guides. They asked how they could possibly improve in the future; one couple did not like the cremation experience at the end of the trip as it brought kind of a downer energy, but we understood, and the guide understood but said due to the very tight schedule this was the only time to fit it in and was a way to pass the time while wait for our results besides sitting at the airport for three hours. Again, it was not an experience for everyone, but I was glad I did it.

Seriously, what an amazing adventure! Just two days together and I have already had requests for reunion dinners and drinks with these people.

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Comments

[D MJ Binkley]

Travel
Nice photo.