Namaste, Nepal.


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March 13th 2013
Published: March 13th 2013
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Namaste, Nepal. You have been in my dreams every day and every night since we last departed.

I missed you so, and a huge void feels filled having returned. Being here evokes so many emotions. It's humbling and puts everything into perspective. Many things feel like a gentle slap in the face. Reminders of who we are - just little specks of dust, really, - and all the contrasts in this world. It's a beautiful thing. Nepal is remarkable.

There is the perfect articulation of the dychotomy in the world in Kathmandu. And unlike many places it doesn't try to hide the intense contrasts. The poor in the shanti shacks held up by tarps, found pieces of wood, and scraps of metal, and the rich in the new concrete, stucco, colorful painted 3 story buildings living side by side. More trash in the river beds than water. Children playing and bathing in the black, rank, river and dogs finding their daily meals from the trash islands standing in the middle of the river. Extreme suffering and utter joy dancing to the same rhythm that is Kathmandu. Every other day is a strike or a holiday, always creating a palpable energy. In a matter of ten seconds your nose may be assaulted or delighted by the smell of inscence, shit- be it human, dog, cow, or other -, fresh fruit, stale piss, hot delicious chai, decaying dead animals, samosas and other street food frying, exhaust of petrol fumes, dust caking your nose, and other welcoming and offensive scents being thrust into your vulnerable nostrils, all helping to create the darkest and most satisfying boogers to pick you'll ever know.

Kathmandu has changed so much in the last 4 1/2 years. So many new buildings, houses, many more people, and the roads better and worse. The government decided to widen the roads, but in order to do this they demolished houses, brick fences, and the roads them selves. Now there are many roads all torn apart, just waiting to be fixed and put back into place. The plan to demolish the roads in order to widen them seems to be at a halt in most places.

Everyday is an incredible adventure, at once stressful and delightful. Being awakened while walking on the streets by screetching horns whizing by, pulverizing your eardrums and scratching the outside of your brain. Always aware of dodging shit. Careful and on your toes to avoid being hit by a car, bus, or motorcycle. Still, somehow, able to maintain inner peace and find the joy in every nook and cranny, each containing a sacred space dedicated to one of the millions of gods worshiped.

In nearly a week we have seen many beloved old friends and family. We were able to visit a beautiful park, Manjushree, just outside of Kathmandu which looks over the valley with a former student and now a dear friend, Manju Buddha. Visiting my Nepali family was like in my dreams - except I am not fluent in Nepali - It is so incredible to see them and still feel a deep connection with them. I feel so blessed, not only to be here from half way around the world, but also to have such a beautiful relationship with a family here in Nepal. T.J. and I visited the school I volunteered at which was really special. It was so great to see some of the same kids from 4 1/2 years ago, and see which classes remembered me most. It was so heart warming to hear what they remembered from our class and time together, and to feel that I made an impact on them. Some classes were so enthusiastic to see me again and were reflecting on things we did in class. Towards the end of my trip here I will be going back to the school and teaching for a couple of days. There are so many things to do in Nepal, and I know the time is going to really fly by like Tom Cruise buzzing the flight tower in Top Gun.

Now we are getting ready for a 10 day silent meditation, known as Vipassana. Whew! 10 days, no talking, writing, reading, music - nothin'! It's going to be a challenge, but surely will be transformative and awakening in many unexpected ways....which may be why we are feeling slightly anxious about it. We are not able to even make eye contact or aknowledge one another during the 10 days.

A few days after that we will be leaving for a 11 - 14 day trek in the Langtang region. How nice it will be to walk in the epic mountains of Nepal!

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