Bloody animal parts and a proper send-off


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Asia » Nepal » Kathmandu
October 25th 2007
Published: October 29th 2007
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For as many Nepalis that are vegetarian, walking down a major street would clearly convince you otherwise. Main roads are lined with shops, and every 5th one is a meat stand. Bloody pig, goat, and chicken bodies are on full display, as well as their heads prominently displayed for meat identification. And in front of each stand are crates, cages, and leashes keeping the next victims close at hand. I've been extremely lucky in that the only slaughter I've witnessed was that wooly mountain goat up in the remote village.

Over the two-week long festival that (finally) ended yesterday, my day to day responsibility has been heading over to the home first thing and following up on the monthly health check. For children with identified health issues, I've been applying and distributing medications and vitamins with Steve. Usually, this takes about an hour each morning, but is often held up by one or two stubborn children and morning daal bhaat. It's well known that the vitamin B syrup is not so tasty, so convincing the children to take it isn't always the easiest task. Once this bottle is finished, I am swiching over to a chewable multivitamin inclusive of vitamin B complex, no questions asked.

Every so often I manage to have 5 or 10 minute conversations with Aama (mother) or Hajuramma (grandmother) completely in Nepali (they each speak about 10 words of English each). I am beginning to surprise myself with what language I've picked up thus far, though I'm going to start going through my language booklet on a daily basis so I can communicate even more effectively. That'll just make life easier for everyone. However, as if it weren't as confusing enough thinking in a combination of English and French prior to coming here, I'm now thinking tri-lingually. Imagine deciphering a thought in your mind consisting of words in all three languages. I honestly don't know how people keep more than two languages straight. But I have a newfound respect for multi-linguists.

Wednesday was Esther and Elloise's last day here in Nepal, so the group gathered in Thamel that evening to provide them with a proper send-off. During the health clinic, Dr. Puri expressed an interest in wanting to join us for a night out on the town at some point, so we thought Wednesday would be perfect. He took us to this amazing (and not overpriced) restaurant outside of Thamel, where I treated myself with a personal tomato/mushroom pizza and tasty tasty spicy fries. Admist an ongoing lime catapaulting session, the pizza, fries, and three hot rums later, I am fat and happy. Covering the dairy, bread, and vegetable food groups, pizza is my solace from a life of a rice.

Following dinner, Dr. Puri took us to a large and fancy casino closeby. Gambling is illegal in Nepal, so I'm not particularly clear on the logistics of things, but after a discusssion on their strict no flip-flop policy, the doormen let our large group in. We promise we'll all wear proper shoes next time, PROMISE. Danielle and I sauntered up to the bar and talked the bartender into believing we were actually gambling in exchange for free beer. A Nepali fellow came to our assistance and backed our story, at which point we were served free beer and hid behind our group at the other side of the casino. A free round of beers was had by all, and Steve won big! Somwhere around $120 in a half hour isn't too shabby!

The next stop of the evening was the 'disco' which had a ridiculously expensive cover charge (500 rupees). After much negotiation, and against everyone's better judgement, Dr. Puri and Steve covered the whole group for a discounted price (Steve did just win big, you know). This place tried charging me 600 rupees for a rum and coke ($10)!!! Call me crazy, but I THOUGHT I was in a developing country. Dr. Puri once again came to the rescue and talked the bartender down to half price. I legitimately had ordered a 250 rupee drink off the menu, but APPARENTLY there had been a misunderstanding, after which the bartender apologized profusely. Damn straight. We were pretty much the only people at the disco, where nobody had any reservations about dancing as if no one was watching. However, the floors must have just been polished and I promptly ended up on my bum. I must have landed on my right arm a bit awkwardly, because I woke up the next morning completely unable to bear any weight on it. Luckily, my injury was short lived and passed within a day.

Okay, it was time to head somewhere slightly more reasonable- nothing other than our tried and true Fire dance club in central Thamel. Steve rode over to our next destination on the back of Dr. Puri's motorbike and I was eager to join in on the excitement. Unfortunately (okay fortunately), Paul intervened, quietly suggesting that he's sure I've had better ideas than riding with an intoxicated motorcyclist. Okay, point taken. Jane ho (let's go), I'll gladly walk, thank you. We spent the rest of the evening completely dominating Fire dance club and wildly dancing our bums off as always. I decided to not be responsible for a repeat of last time's drama and gladly consumed water for the rest of the evening. I was so jolly and happy and danced like an absolute wildwoman like everyone else. Stepping up the water quota was probably one of the best decisions I've ever made, as I escaped the evening drama free, and as everyone knows, drama free is the way to be. I love it when this happens.

When I appropriately decided to leave the bar (obstacle 1 down), Paul walked me back to our hotel where we rang the doorbell and banged on the gate loudly for several minutes before anyone decided to show up to let us in (obstacle 2 down). Upon entering the pitch black hotel lobby, we busted out Paul's wee flashlight on the end of his lighter and discovered 50 Nepalis of all ages curled up body to body, sleeping on the floor. It felt a bit like a refugee camp to tell you the truth. Navigating the spaces between them, we made our way to the front desk in an attempt to locate our room keys. After 5 minutes of unsuccessful hunting, the clerk finally runs up and hands them over (obstacle 3 down). Finally time for bed. I am so much looking forward to a real mattress. It's the little things, really.

I rise the next morning absolutely clueless about my surroundings, as this is not the hotel we always stay in. Unfortunately, our tried and true had been completely booked for the evening of choice. I treat myself to hot breads in the morning, hot breads in the afternoon, and am finally able to track down some soy sauce in order to make my meals slightly more tolerable. I would be sticking to a soy sauce and rice diet for as long as I can get away with.

After heading back to Manamaiju Thursday, I nap through the afternoon in an attempt to nurse my horribly vengeful cold. My snotty shirt has seen better days. I even brought the thing out on Wednesday evening to avoid snotting all over everyone else. In addition, since there is no trash disposal system in this country, I'm just looking out in more ways than one. I am saving the environment one booger t-shirt at a time.

Steve and Steve stopped by for a a visit late afternoon (very welcome, provided my condition), and I made a point to communicate to Amma that I would only be able to eat rice that evening. I made a move and busted out the soy sauce for the first time- very tasty! I was successfully able to survive off of morning and evening meals of soy sauce rice for the next few days.

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