Trekking in the Kathmandu Valley

---

Rain, clouds, leeches, mud; rain clouds, leeches... the never ending cycle is a far stretch from any pre-conceptions I had of a perfect trek, but they have left a groove an inch deep in my memory. All four are synonymous with each other.

Generally the Kathmandu Valley trek is relatively easy going and does not require much preparation, compared to say, summiting Everest. After all, the World Heritage location has an elevation no higher than 2800 metres. But with no less than a backpack full of wet, mud-stained clothes, a large collection of photographs depicting various formations of mountain and cloud, and a piece of equipment now only vaguely resembling an umbrella, I am quite convinced that either Saruman exists or I am a conqueror of no ordinary trek.

After days of intense studying of the ever-changing lumps of mud enveloping my boots, and perfecting delicate leech-arts including the flicking, the distinguishing (between an itch and a leech bite) and most importantly - more common sense than anything else - the standing; standing in one place for a lengthy period of time can result in you picking up some else's previously discarded and unused leech. You really do learn something new every day. (Why mountains and villages when that sort of entertainment is on offer?)

With the local bazaars, flaming rhythms and vivid colours of Bhaktapur permanently occupied in an all-consuming dance of life, the city begins to remind me of a museum, a movie set and another world all put together. How is this possible? Well, Promis, a young lad who appeared suddenly alongside me, thinks it’s because Bhaktapur is smaller and there is no pollution like in Kathmandu. He’s a cute kid, very confident and polite in the presence of foreigners, and he speaks English as though it were his mother tongue.

He follows me around as I cross Bhaktapur's Durbar Square, his two brothers trailing behind him. But as the conversation slowly progresses I wake up to his true intention, and that is to talk me into giving a donation to him, which he promises to pass onto the school in order that his brothers can be taught English. Sure you will do that, Promis.

It doesn't matter what the reason is for special experiences of Bhaktapur are, the main thing is that you come away with a part of it.

---

Photos

Village House
A Newa-style house in the Kathmandu Valley

Nagarkot hotel
Morning view from a poky window at a Nagarkot hotel.

Bhaktapur
A potter in the old part of Bhaktapur using the traditional method

Street of Bhaktapur
Busy street

Durbar Square
Scene from the Nagatoya Temple