Mongolia - Chenghis Khan, Turtle Rock, Terelj


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July 2nd 2023
Published: July 25th 2023
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Our last day in Mongolia was going to be quite busy until our late afternoon flight. I think we all skipped breakfast, a couple people sick (I personally think it was the milk tea from the camp, but not sure, I just can't imagine drinking too much of it is good on your stomach if you are not used to it). E and H picked us up from the hotel, bags packed and we made our way to our first stop.

Chenghis Khan

Just outside Ulaanbaatar is the largest equestrian statue in the world. The statue is located where legend says he found a golden whip and is pointed to his supposed birthplace. It was constructed in 2008 and is a stainless steel structure 10m. Below the statue itself is a museum, which was actually quite interesting. The main floor has a giant boot, with the tell-tale toes pointed up, which indicates the love Mongolians have for the earth and that they do not want to disturb it. I believe it has 36 columns to represent the 36 Khans, also shown on large portraits in the main hall. The lower ground floor is the museum, which we went to first when we saw a huge crowd headed to the statue. The museum has little on the Khan himself, but focuses more on the Mongolian way of life, with historical photos of nomadic peoples and displays of some of their typical items. I enjoyed seeing the chess set and I liked seeing the display of the many Khans' signature stamps highlighted on the wall - each was unique, and it was an interesting display.

I did not realize you could actually go up into the statue, but we did! There was a long line for the one elevator, so we took the steep, very narrow stairs. It was not too bad, plus the elevator only takes you up so high. You exit outside around the tail section and there is a platform along the horses back up to its head. It was truly amazing actually - you can clearly see the Khan's face, his golden whip, and 360 degree views of the surrounding hills and valleys. However, it was quite crowded and there were some very rude people up there trying to make us get out of their shot - the platform is not very big, so not sure where they expected us to go. I know where they could go though.... We had a group photo, but I don't think I ever saw it! I'm used to others not sharing photos, so I tend to take a lot on my own. Anyway, it was a nice stop.

Turtle Rock

We drove for another 40 minutes I think to the next stop, which is Turtle Rock. Which, I guess..... kind of looks like a turtle. Like, I see it, but I don't understand the attraction. I mean, this is the epitome of "tourist trap." Well, you can climb around the base of the rock and it is definitely in a pretty area, so not a total waste of time.

Aryapala Temple Meditation Center

Next we drove up to this temple area - I had no idea what to expect and I really cannot find much information on this place. However, this was a bit of a hike. I stopped to use the outdoor toilet which if you know means I really had to pee - it was so gross, I so much rather the outdoors. And at that point I realized I had been spoiled by the Beijing public toilets. :p Anyway, I told the rest to not wait because I knew we were on a tight schedule, so I had a peaceful walk up myself. It is pretty much uphill to the temple the entire way, which I am sure is by design. Along the way are dozens of mantras to read, which helped to pass the time, and are on both sides of these boards. And wow - some of the mantras were quite dark! I think I mentioned in my last blog that I found the Buddhism practiced here much darker than my experiences in southeast Asia and I wondered why. Another thing I guess I need to research. Some were like advice to live a good life, which I expect, but when I saw the dark ones, I was a bit shocked and laughed; many were in regard to suffering.

A few examples of the mantras I read:

"Know that even action such as standing up, sitting and lying down all have the nature of suffering."

"A house built on an ice will sink down when the sun rises. Therefore, all masters should know the impermanent nature of this life."

"Buddha preached 'this world has full of sufferings' in his first teaching. Some embrace suffering by thinking this world is of a happy nature."

I did not get pictures of all, but there was one that was like do not give poor people something fancy or rich because they cannot have it anyway - I kind of get what they were trying to say, but it was more like keeping people in their place and/or not enjoying the finer things in life.

About mid-way up, you pass by a form of a prayer wheel, but above is a stick which indicates two numbers that correspond to an individual mantra once you've turned the wheel. These ones are on metal boards along the path and are much longer, so I won't repeat them here - some where so long my eyes glazed over while reading anyway.

Then you get to a bridge, which we waited while a wedding party finished taking some photos - I am sure they turned out lovely. It was a gorgeous day and there is a mountain and temple backdrop. Not to mention, there were so many beautiful wildflowers - I could not get enough taking pictures of them. They don't come across as well in the photos, but it really was lovely.

At the base of the temple, you are to climb 108 steps (108 being a spiritual number that you see throughout the temples here). The temple itself is empty and is used solely for meditation, which it is quite peaceful once you get up here. We had the place to ourselves for a few minutes, so it was nice to just chill, and yes, close our eyes and enjoy the peace. Walking around outside, I was admiring the artwork. I was truly shocked to see some paintings of bestiality and sex acts. So weird!!! The views over the valley were just incredible - again, perfect weather, flowers, green, blue skies.. A nice end to the adventurel

Leaving Mongolia, Transfer in Beijing

We had lunch at a local lodge, which was pretty good, but not local food. It was a very nice resort though - I would not mind staying here a night or two. Then we drove about 90 minutes to the airport. E felt rushed by the airport police at the otherwise empty airport and we had a quick goodbye with her and H. We checked in quickly, I think this was the only flight. There was no lounge to access, but the airport was super nice and quiet. Plenty of space and seating area, lots of little shops, though using credit card was hit or miss. And the bathroom - amazing. Full on Japanese style toilet.

Easy flight into Beijing, where L left to do one final night in Beijing. I walked with C and Y to transfer while D had to get her checked baggage and re-check in. However, I don't think we saved any time transferring through. Since the flights were not connected, we had to get our boarding passes before going into the departures hall and it took forrreeevvveeerrrrr.. We had plenty of time, with a 4 hour layover, so we did not feel rushed. But we were literally the only people doing this, so it was just weird. We finally got our boarding passes, so next step was security. I had to take all of my coins out of my purse - I have never, ever, anywhere been asked to do that and I still do not know why they would except that they must have been bored. I have coins stuck in random places from random countries - US, China, UAE, Euros, etc. Thankfully, we made it through then had a loooooong walk to the Emirates lounge. It was totally worth it. A very nice lounge and a great way to end an epic trip!!!!!


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31st July 2023
Chenghis Khan Temple Complex

What a great country to visit
I'm loving your blogs. Please keep them coming.
12th October 2023
Turtle Rock

I see a turtle
I totally understand that it is a tourist trap. But it actually look like a turtle so they are excused if you ask me. When we were in Mongolia we were invited into a private home, a yurt. Since we were guests they gave us the best they had to offer - fermented horse milk. The host pointed at it and said "Mongolian beer" when he gave it to us. It was OK to drink but not very good. And yes, there was some alcohol in it. /Ake

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