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Published: August 2nd 2006
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Flora Bay
On arrival to Flora Bay, Palau Besar, Perhentian Island Perentian Island - Pulau Besar
Thank you all for your useful comments on my recent plea for help over the Mozzie Bites. Does fruit get classed as sweet Alan?, ah well, spicey for me from now on. I thought John Leonards was excellent and was up for trying it until I read Jen's and realised that they like 'smelly'. I laughed out loud I'm afraid at Jen's, and the memory of her standing on the jetty at Manukan near Kota Kinabalau, with her arms crossed while 'sweaty steve' carried her luggage along the pier.
It is impossible for me to keep from being 'sweaty' carrying a 16 kilo backpack and possibly a 2 kilo front pack (depending on the book I am reading) in 30 odd degree's. I would have liked nothing better than to find a nice shower room at Surrat Thani railway station having already been travelling for 7 hours on the bus and ferry from Koh Samui. Instead I had to make do with a semi strip wash in some grimey toilet with my day bag between my legs as everywhere was wet and mankey, so I couldn't put it down. On the overnight train when it
finally arrived at 1am (an hour late) there were a couple of sinks in the open carriage, and closed toilet which held only the squat looe. (you know your muscles are good when you can negotiate a squat looe on a fast moving train). Anyway after 10 hours on this to Sungai Kolock, half of which I slept. There was a walk or bike ride to the Border (about 200-250 metres)then over the bridge into Malaysia where you have a choice of 150 metre walk again to bus station or negotiate with a taxi. There is a cafe there and in the only shop there is a true Ronnie Barker Malaysian Style who will change your Bht into Ringgit, he went to great lengths to show me old printed emails proving excellent exchange rates, while serving 3 other people who walked into the shop, until I eventually politely asked him to get on with it before someone else came in. He pointed out that if I was going to Perhentian Island I would be best to wait for others to share a taxi with. Sound advice. I waited at the cafe and eventually saw two backpackers looking slightly warm, going
My Bungalow
Kemboja, means 'flower' Superior Double my way. (Ronnie just happened to have a taxi driver to hand!!). However we decided it would be best to take one step at at time and make for Kota Bharu for an overnight stay. We walked to the signposted bus station and found no buses, but plenty taxi's. Eventually we agreed a price with a taxi and as we all got in realised this taxi has no aircon. So 50Km without air con. After trying one place suggested in the lonely planet which was full we found ourselves in another highly recommended place called Ideal Travelllers Rest.
I am sure I could compare this to some hilarious comedy of years gone by, except that by now I was having a sense of humour failure. Ideal Travellers are a couple who rent you the room for 25 ringgit, approx 4GBP, it is literally a room with a bed in it, matress cover and pillows, (no covers thankfully). The curtain barely covered the window, it did have a fan, with no open window the room was stiffling. The two danish girls I had come with were sharing a double bed. We then all shared the toilet/shower room with, it seems, the
Jungle Trek
Gave this a miss, too many mozzies ... rest of the house. As he was packing them in, had to be at least another dozen people. If he had no room left, his brother had a room down the road.
So I finally get a shower and there are more mozzies in there than I've seen in one place. Probably the worst place I have ever stayed in to date.Having gone out and walked around I fear there wasn't much better to be had. The town seems dirty and unkept. I later heard when discussing Kota Bharu (KB as its known) that another couple staying there had seen 3 large rats running along the pavement.
Getting back to the Mozzie bite messages, I would like to thank Joolz for her suggestion, as I had some hayfever tablets in my first aid bag and have started to take these. If it takes away the itching it will be something, will let you know how it goes.
The next day I was sitting outside with bags long before it was time to go, decided to skip breakfast.... We shared a taxi again to Kota Besut and at the jetty got on my taxi boat almost immediately to 'Flora Bay Resort'
on Pulau Besar. (Big Island).
From here on things got good again. Everyone on the boat was on a high, all being dropped off at different locations of the two islands. Who wouldn't be too, the setting is so amazing, with turquoise waters. Apart from there being no surf, 'Lost' could have been filmed here. I was second to be dropped off, well you had to hop from one boat to another, bags and all, and taken right to the shore.
Everyone welcomes you, including a welcome drink (blackcurrant Juice) something I never usually drink but it was delicious.
I had a room booked, I had arranged this the previous night while wandering round in KB. I found Flora Place which is a branch of Flora Bay, I had to have an expensive room to start with and change to a cheaper room the second night. However when shown to my room 'Kemboja' which was 2 metres from the beach, I decided to stay here and give myself that treat I mentioned in a previous page.
I won't go on too much about how fabulous it is here, very romantic and very much for couples, must remember to bring my
View from my Balcony
only a couple metres from the beach, in the morning could hear the sea, evenings the tide was out. Waters very shallow for a long way out... couple next time I come. Most couples were very insular, however did meet a very nice couple, orig from Brazil, but live in London, Rosa and Magnus.
I had an afternoon snorkeling, saw a turtle, some small basking sharks and many other beautiful fish, and marvellous corals, the waters are so clear, you really don't need to dive. The boat man thought it was funny to throw bread in as we were jumping off the side of the boat, and thousands of tiny fish crowded around the boat, it felt really weird to jump in amongst them. Wish I'd had an underwater camera.
I stayed for 3 nights in my posh superior bungalow. :-)
One thing I have noticed since coming into Malaysia, the people are much friendlier and have a good sense of humour, alot also speak good english which helps alot. Since crossing the border I have found that I am now in Muslim territory, all the women wear the full head scarf, in KB they wear the most gaudy coloured, smart, silk outfits, with headscarfs. Here on the island, casual wear, t-shirt of Flora Bay and Headscarf.
Malaysia is also another hour ahead, so now I am
7 hours ahead of you all. Also the plugs are the same as our 3 pin plugs. Ringgits approx 6.77 to the pound.
On return from the Island I have had to stay another night in KB, however this time I booked into Flora Place, more expensive but worth it. Very nice, I think decent budget accom might be a bit more in Malaysia than Thailand anyway. As I am in nice accom I feel safer, not so vulnerable and had a good walk around, found the craft museum and the tourist office to book tomorrow's accom.
Tomorrow I am booked on the bus to Penang. The bus journey is 8 hours and cost only 28 ringgit. The taxi to bus station is going to 10 ringgit, which is about 10 mins away. I am a bit concerned what the bus will be like........................
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katydid
Cathy Giles
Happy Travels!!
Hi Lorraine! Can't believe you have been travelling for almost two months now. That means that I am two months closer to the start of my adventure!! Keep up the entertaining blogs. Glad you are having such an amazing time, and look forward to the next one.