Bruce's blog 2

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Travel blog ep. 2



Kota Kinabalu is the capital city of Sabah. The British called it Jesselton, but with independence it has become the 'City of Kinabalu, the tallest mountain in SE Asia at 4095 m. Mount Kinabalu was formerly called 'Kina Balu' which means "new Chinese'in the native language because the Chinese saw it from the sea and were attracted to climb it, whereas the natives considered it a sacred place of spirits and did not climb.

Kota kinabalu is a bustling city with rapidly expanding suburban tentacles stretching into the reclaimed sea and rice paddies.

The common housing is rows of terraces, each double story with lounge dining room, kitchen and toilet below, topped by two or three bedrooms and a bathroom. The laundry is often outside under a veranda. Floors are tiled and usually light coloured. Customarily, shoes are left at the front door. Room furniture is minimalist, with just a few cupboards and benches and uncluttered. All house windows and doors are left upon for ventilation but are barred and pad locked day and night, often with a metal spike topped fence and gate surrounding. Sometimes it feels a bit prison-like but it is better than the constant threat of robbery.



When I first came to KK 27 years ago, there was light traffic and the roads in poor repair. Most of the vehicles were motorbikes often straddled by a whole family. The Malaysian government has since embarked on a national car program, building a small affordable vehicle called a "Kencil" to replace the motor bikes. The result is traffic jams and lack of parking spaces. We drive for hours to cover short distance to market the drive in circles looking for a parking space. Double parking is common.

The road network has expanded and is better maintained. Traffic lights control most intersections and direction signs abound. Driving is a nerve wracking business for us, but the locals do so with forbearance and trust. One just pushes in trusting that other drivers will let you in, and they usually do. Considering that this is the first generation where most people drive cars, strict adherence to road laws is less important than tolerance.



Most shopping occurs in the "tamu" or market. Western style supermarkets are gradually introduced, but the atmosphere and ambience of the market is preferred. The stall holders sit behind a bench laden with their produce while the customers come and feel for freshness and ripeness. Before a transaction there is usually lighthearted conversation, such as family news, recipes, weather and so on. Then there's the bargaining which does not get too heated, and the further conversation as the goods are trimmed and wrapped. It's hard to have that social interaction in a supermarket.

But in all supermarkets and shops there are always an abundance of staff. One never has to wander around searching for a person to serve or ask a question.

Coffee is my obsession and I've searched high and low for a descent cup of espresso. There are coffee shops with espresso machines, but their coffee is always weak, too milky, too hot and undrinkable. I go with Lizs sister to the local eating house. This is usually a large open hall with vendors offering various cooked meals such as noodles or wontons who take your order as you sit down then serve you at your table. My inability to take most foods is a problem but they are always willing to fry me an egg or tofu. I have learned that if I order correctly I will get a satisfying coffee. I have to say 'kopi susu gou gou' which translates as 'coffee with condensed milk strong strong'.

The coffee is made by pouring boiling water through a muslin bag filled with ground coffee. If you are not specific in your order you are liable to get dishwater because the beans have been used in several previous brews.

Sweetened condensed milk takes a bit of getting used to, but it does provide a good energy boost in the tropical conditions.



Liz has been enjoying such hectic time over the past few days. She was initially feeling apprehensive about the reunion of her St.Cicilia classmates from 45 years ago. The event started with a huge hotel banquet. They then spent two nights and days catching up with the news, memories, biographies and juicy gossip of births, marriages, divorces, affairs and deaths. They also took a bus trip to the foothills of Mt.Kinbalu for some hiking and more eating. She arrived home totally exhausted and still hungry.

The next day one of Lizs many cousins drove us to the Beaufort, the home town of Lizs mothers family. We found her 90 year old uncle and her 80 year old aunt looking just a little slower but not much older. Uncle still has a full head of black hair without any grey, and not dyed. Liz is particularly interested in her family history, and together with her cousin Andrew, they encouraged the elders to relate their memories. There is a story that this side of the family has Borneo native blood. There are various stories to this effect but none are conclusive. If it is correct it would mean that Lizs nieces and nephews would be eligible for Bumiputra benefits, such as university entrance or employment openings not available to Chinese. So many Chinese, such as Liz, come to Australia to study, and many never return, thus there is a massive brain drain for Malaysia.

Back in KK we meet more cousins and another 93 year old aunt with a huge goitre but a sharp mind. She filled in some history such as that Lizs grandmother was so bad tempered she refused to look after her husband and mother in law and moved to live with her son in Parpar. So.......yes...

She also cast doubt on the native blood theory claiming that the grandmother and grandfather both migrated from China. But, the birth certificates definitely say they are Sino Dussan (native).

The day was finished with a big restaurant meal, where I used the free wifi to check the football scores. They are really a close knit extended family and it a delight to see them interact in such warm terms. We swapped contact deals with a plan that they will visit us when they come to Australia.

Next stop Hong Kong and Shenzhen in China, where Liz and her sister have a long lost uncle and cousins waiting to greet them.

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Photos

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Liz s grandfathery