Borneo- Highest Peak to Depths of the Sea 12th September - 28th September 2012

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Our first week in Borneo, you could say, was just slightly detached from reality. 7 nights in the Rasa Ria Shangri La. 5 Star accom, sea view rooms and beers by the pool. Chilax! Orangutan Rehabilitation centre attached to the resort meant you could get close to them whilst they were feeding. Babies aged 2 and 3 greeted us with their ranger keepers for a short time whilst they were allowed to play. This was a treat and the video shown before we met them enlightened us as to how everything they need to survive is being destroyed. The government need to wake up and start putting a stop to this palm oil production before its too late. Anyway rant over.

The week became a drinking and eating frenzy, far too much food and 'around the world' buffets. Eating 5 times the normal consumption became the norm. The small thai portions we became used to vanished. We spent a lovely week with the parents, catching up and filling them in on our travels, 6 months had just gone so quick.

Our stay came to an end and saying goodbye to the parents meant we were destined to rough it again in a mear 3 star hotel 😉. In central Kota Kinabalu the Hotel Gaya provided decent central accomodation. Shame there was not much to occupy our time there. We were due to start our climb of Mount Kota Kinabalu in 2 days so for now made the most of the shopping malls and KFC, which had all become alien to us by now.

An early pick up meant we were leaving for the mountain at 6am. A time that also seemed to have become the norm these days. 1h 30m transfer and some stunning scenery along the way and we were at base camp. 'OMG!' was my thought when I saw a glimpse of the summit when the clouds opened up momentarily. 'Can we really do this?' was also in our thoughts? 4095m and the highest peak in South East Asia, no training and never climbed at altitude. Mmmmm. We met our guide Andrew who's english was poor but who's smile and ability to point things out made up for it. He said we needed gloves and walking sticks? Gloves we bought but walking sticks? why on earth would we need them? Didn't bother, man were we wrong in that choice.

The route, 6km to the first rest site, a 5-6h climb. Dinner then early to bed before a 2am wake up and another 3h climb to the summit. The last km we were told was the steepest. So we set off from the bottom with the weather being kind to us, packed lunch in tow and water bottles at the ready. It soon became apparent there was a theme to the people whizzing past us up the slope..... "i am a trialete" " I ran the New York Marathon" etc etc. Worried, yes. Were we going to make it?, not sure!

Slow and steady our guide kept telling us. He then informed us he does this about 3 times a week. Didn't make me feel any better and by 1500m my breathing was taking a toll. The path wasn't actually that steep for the most part of our initial climb but what made it hard was the irregularity of the size of the steps and the constant change of surface. You always had to watch each step and found it hard to form any sort of rhythm with the walking.

With designated stops every km we progressed well and 5 hours later arrived at our sleeping quarters. This consisted for a metal hut with bunk beds, an outside toilet and an outdoor cold shower The food was good, big buffet style to keep the energy levels up. Tired I certainly was, but determined to get to the summit for sunrise. The rest point view was stunning. We were above the clouds. The pic's below do not do it justice. It was like you were looking at the world from an aeroplane. Off to bed at 7pm was odd, but after climbing all day we soon both fell to sleep, all be it waking up cold at times.

2am arrived but neither of us could stomach the big breakfast they put on. Cuppa tea and off we went. Our guide decided we definitely needed walking sticks and by now we agreed. He gave us his and they were appreciated. Mark started to have a problem with his knee not far into the second climb. He said it felt like it was going to pop sideways. Not great news, but he was determined to reach the summit. Pigeon steps were all I could muster as my breathing was ridiculous. Shallow and laboured. My legs were fine and would have happily gone faster, my chest however would not let me. The climb became more intense, pulling ourselves up on ropes on slick granite rock faces. It was pitch black but you knew it was steep. I hoped it was not as bad as I imagined, as coming down with Mark's fear of heights was not going to be easy. Many a time he said " glad I can't see down ". But he would, very soon.

Constantly going through clouds it became very cold. Glad for those £1 gloves we picked up and glad for the sticks to keep our footing. 5.30am we could see the top. The sun was just starting to light up the ground, we were going to make sunrise. The wind starting howling as we made our way up the final rock face using our hands to pull us up. 6am and we made it. Perhaps 40 people had reached the summit in time and we were 2. Well done us we thought, that was bloody hard.

As the sun started to appear the scenery became spectacular. Mark called it Mordor (Lord of the Rings). Reds, oranges in the sky and deep crevasses surrounding us. Way above the clouds we all huddled to try and keep warm, all admiring the beauty around us. Despite such a climb to reach the top you could not hang around too long and after 15 minutes we were beginning to turn numb. The decent began.

It soon became clear that in fact getting down was going to be harder than climbing up. Mark was in increasing pain with his knee and my legs had started to get the shakes. It was going to be a long day. Back to the huts for some well deserved breakfast at 9am and Mark was in agony. I really wasn't sure he could make it down. With a little rest he felt a bit better. Having discovered the only alternative was to get him stretchered down we decided to press on. Every jar on his leg made him wince. It was a long and painful journey down and the pain in my legs soon caught up with Mark's knees. The rain started and I wanted to stop. 'Just leave me here!' I said, but no we plodded on. Being overtaken again by all those athletes was not a great feeling as we got slower and slower. At 4pm we saw the last 500m sign. There was a god, we were nearly down. Mini bus and sleep thats all I wanted.

With a smile and our certificates waiting at the bottom we made it. Exhausted and hurting more than ever, we both said, that was simply the hardest thing we had both ever done. The journey back to Kota Kinabalu was a long bus ride with Mark and I in too much pain to sleep but too tired to stay awake.

Back at the hotel, we slept until 11am the next day, and if it wasn't for check out at 12 I think would have stayed longer. My legs had seized completely. I looked like one of those people who once was paralyed and had just found some feeling in their legs. My legs did not want to move on their own. Mark on the other hand felt ok. His knee had gone down in size and although he ached he did not walk like an idiot like me.

Diving here we come. Short flight from KK to Tawau 25 mins! and we were transported to Semporna. The jumping off port for the pristine diving of Sipidan. People had already said, get to Semporna, find a bar and stay put, its a dump. Yep they were right. Scuba Junkies Bar was across the road from our hotel, The Sipidan Inn, and thats where we stayed. A game of footie on the TV and a beer and we were sorted. Next day we were ready and eager to get going. Seaventures Dive Rig here we come.

A warm welcome from staff and a hobble to our room by me, 3 floors up and we were there. Sipidan dive site is in a protected marine wildlife reserve. Permits to dive there have to be booked along time in advance. We were promised at least 3 dives at Sipidan with the permits, but there was a chance we could get more. With fingers crossed we got lucky and ended up with 6. The dive sites were amazing. Each dive showing us more than before. Bumphead parrot fish, massive! Reef shark after reef shark, turtle after turtle. We just didn't know where to look first. Up at 5am and diving by 6.45am seemed crazy but after the buzz of the first dive the time was soon well forgotton.

The dive rig is the only one in the world and it had a real novelty factor. Decent food and fairly basic rooms with ensuite meant for a pleasant stay. Also included in our stay was unlimited house reef diving where you are lowered down on an outside lift straight into the water to swim off. Here we found giant moray eels and crocodile fish. Trips to dive at Mabul and Kapali were also made but you would not come to Borneo for them. They were fill in's whilst you waited for your turn at Sipidan. Nice macro stuff and turtles but that was about it. Unfortunately there was lots of rubbish too which was disappointing. I thought given what we had seen in Tao and their constant effort to clean the reefs the dive schools in the area had not done their bit. This however, did not apply to Sipidan, it was immaculately clean. All in all a very enjoyable stay.

So our time in Borneo came to an end with the best diving we had ever done. Not sure Borneo is a counrty I would rush back to but it made its lasting imprint. Now off to Perth to visit the Zippies down under. Bring on the Kangaroo's 😉

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