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Our next day in KK followed a very similar but more successful pattern. After breakfast, and having collected clothes from a laundry service (the first washing we have not done by hand since we left, what luxury) we purchased another mask and snorkel (4 between us now) and caught the boat to tiny Mamutik. Our initial disappointment at finding more people crammed into the tiny 300m long island than were on its big brother Mamukan yesterday dissolved as soon as we entered the water. We floated about in a sea we decided was the calmest, warmest and clearest we have swum in, agog at the spectacle unfolding before our eyes. It was like swimming in the largest tropical fish tank you have ever seen. If we had seen so many fish crammed into a tank we would probably have muttered about them being overcrowded. We saw a huge variety of different corals, hard and soft floaty ones, in a multitude of colours. There were even bioluminescent ones of yellows, greens and one ultra violet one that you would have sworn was a lamp. As for the fish, there were hundreds of all shapes, sizes and colours. There was one with a
long black go faster stripe that kept nipping at dead skin on feet, and several rainbow parrot fish that like some silks seemed to shift colour as they moved. Best of all we saw lots of clown fish of various sizes even swimming about in the protective fronds of the coral, and left the water calling “Don’t Panic, we’ve found him!” (Nemo of course).
The previous day as we waited for our 5 o’ clock boat we were with a pair of Aussies who were livid that their 4 o’ clock boat had not arrived. This time we wanted the 4 o’ clock boat, and before leaving the jetty extracted a signed note assuring us of our money back if it did not show from the counter. It did. As the boat neared KK it began to rain, and we, ever-so prepared this time, pulled our rain capes out and smiled.
It is funny how things pass into family lore. At the Taman Negara there was an intricate system for summoning the boats. First you waved or flashed a torch if it was night (this was what you were told to do) and then when you realised they
Jake on the beach
Elliot in the backgroundwere not looking or paying any attention you simply bellowed at the top of your voice “Mama Chop, Mama Chop Crossing, Crossing!” As the echoes reverberated around the valley they appeared, waved, and then headed over to collect you. Every time we cross a road now, we hold hands and say “Mama Chop, Crossing”. It elicits strange looks from bystanders, but snaps the boys temporarily out of whichever slightly surreal imaginary world they have been inhabiting.
Our third day in Porthmaddog in the tropics was grey. We sorted out some of the details for the days to come, and the boys did some numeracy and journal work. We mooched about town, and had cakes and tea and coffee before heading to the museum. This proved inspired, as from 3 o’ clock there were no attendants at the entrance kiosk so we were told to go in for free. The boys loved seeing around the reconstructed long houses. They were built on stilts, with flooring made from split bamboo through which the floor was disconcertingly visible. Elliot inevitably managed to half fall through a hole in one, but sadly extricated himself before a picture could be taken. Probably just as
well, the Grannies would have been livid had they seen it!
Whole communities lived in these houses, with rooms smaller than our lounge allocated to families. Not much privacy here from other families, let alone your own. We saw a hut with skulls strung in the rafters. Apparently hanging the skulls of your enemies in your house brings good luck - but don’t worry, every 5 years a ceremony is held to appease its spirit. So that’s ok then! That is one custom we are relieved has not been preserved. The best of the long houses had a large bouncy floor section in the communal area, where special ceremonial trampolining style dances are held. We also saw cooking areas, traditional boats and musical instruments. Excellent value for money.
KK apparently has the conditions for some of the most spectacular sunsets in the world. On our first few nights however there was heavy rain and so no visible sunset. Strangely after the greyest day the sky cleared, and we headed down to the harbour to enjoy the show. It also provided yet another opportunity to play with our new toy.
In the evenings we did a deal with
the devil. We agreed that the boys could have KFC (partly for the “food” but mainly because they want a full set of the transformer toys that are given with it) in return for which we get to go to the Night Market. They will forever associate KK (which must be one of the best places in the world to eat - such a variety of ethnic styles and amazing ingredients) with Kan’t Flippin’ Cook! We on the other hand have dined on food which would have Rick Stein eulogising.
The setting has been very simple long trestle tables with Tupperware and almost no cutlery, but there is a bowl to fill with water to wash your hands in. It is a muslim market so there is no alcohol, but we were more than happy with water and coconut juice. You selected your food from the tables, and then they took it down to open barbecues at the other end of the table where it was cooked. We have had some sort of fried roti stuffed with cabbage to accompany Red Snapper and Tiger Prawns (you would not think you could recall a best prawn, but we can!) on
the first night, and lobster and baby tuna (not unlike mackerel) on the second. We shared a simple boiled rice with it and the most mouth watering hot dipping sauce, made in front of us (actually the locals help themselves) from tiny sharp limes, chillies, soy sauce plus another unnamed one, seaweed and mango.
For dessert there was a variety of fritters, cakes and donuts, several of which were obtained for a Ringit (about 17p). On the night we had lobster and baby tuna we spent less than 120 Ringit, for one of the best meals of our lives. A meal which at home would have been more than that in pounds!
The rest of the market showcases the raw ingredients from which the food is cooked, with piles of fruit, and vegetables in one area, fowl in another, and fish and sea food in another. Children help their parents and we kept seeing boys of 3 or 4 running between stalls with fresh fish to add to the barbecue.
Our hotel has been lovely once the “entertainment” stops at midnight, although on one night we did struggle with a trio of youngsters drinking and shouting at
Happy Boys
One for the Grannies! 3 o’ clock. They in turn were woken and given a firm talking to early the following morning, and had vanished by the next night!
On our fourth morning in Borneo we walked up to a bus stop to catch a bus to the mountains. As we approached a man came to us saying he had to go up to Mount Kinabalu to fetch a group of climbers and would we like to go. Just as we were smugly enjoying the first km of our trip in a private ac bus he got a call, and turned round dropping us back at the station. We were now crammed into a mini bus waiting for a final passenger to set off. They would not leave without filling the place, but several couples had to be turned away as there was only one space. As we were giving up, a woman arrived with 2 young children, so instead of one extra passenger, 3 were crammed in. The bus was hot and crowded, but nothing to veterans of the poya bus to Polunaruwa. Once we were moving it was fine, and the scenery driving up to the mountain was beautiful. The boys
plugged into Harry Potter on the I pod, and we talked all the way up.
We were staying in a spacious lodge with lovely views in the Kinabalu Pine resort. Sadly it is 7km outside the national park, so we needed a taxi to get to the trails in the morning. The view of the mountain in the morning was beautiful, and made us wish we were climbing it, but you have to start at 2am, and it is described as “arduous”, perhaps one for when the boys are bigger. We settled instead for walking some of the trails around the mountain. The misleadingly named Kiau View trail was a lovely up and down jungle trek which reminded Jake and us all of the climb to the train at Dduallt from Annie’s cottage. Funny how like North Wales Borneo is (except…….) and we love them both!
We returned to our generous balcony at the rainforest lodge KK, prepared for the third island, Sapi, tomorrow. You know how in life you sometimes regret some of the decisions you make? Well……we don’t regret this one!
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Mary
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foodfest
What mouth wateringly wonderful food! What fabulously red stuff..............I just can't wait to get at it!!!!!! We took Roz out in a car yesterday to the botanical gardens and it was really successful......so that was a triumph. Alan fell and smashed his face on his way back from a kareokee so he is feeling somewhat battered. A part of a tooth was removed from his lip and he needed 3 stitches inside his mouth and two outside. Will off to Canada on 20th July; for a while................... Very humid here of late so good climatal training for hanoi etc LOL