Pulau Labuan to Kota Kinabalu

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So, on to the final stop of my journey in Borneo. I had to take a boat from Pulau Labuan to Kota Kinabalu. This was a very choppy ride. I was sat at the front of the boat with no window, and the boat was hitting the waves hard. So it was a white knuckle ride all the way. The crew were havin a laugh when they put the Godzilla movie on the tv. There were some very nervous people. Not the nicest 3 hours I have ever spent on a boat, although the movie was good.

Arrived into KK in early evening. I found in the travel bible a cheap hostel called Step In Lodge. Dorm bed with fan just 25 Ringitt (GBP4ish) a night with breakfast. Met a scuba diving couple from Essex and a bloke from Nottingham who I had met before in Miri in Sarawak. That's how it is, you bump into the same people in different places. In the evening I went out for a few drinks with him, followed by a few more drinks back at the lodge. Turned out to be a late night & I got to bed about 3am.

Next day I set off fairly early to arrange a climb up Mount Kinabalu, the tallest mountain in South East Asia. There is a standard package which is offered as so many people come here to climb the mountain. I met a few who could barely walk, so I wondered what I am getting myself into! I arranged to set off early the next day, it will take 2 days to climb the mountain. Once that was all organised, I took a boat to the nearest of three islands off Kota Kinabalu, Pulau Mamutik, and lay on the beach for the afternoon. Quite a nice little island, but I heard the further away Pulau Sapi has a nicer beach. In the evening made a couple more friends and a group of us took to the waterfront where there was a street parade on for the build up to Chinese New Year. Some more drunken antics later, I finally got to bed around 2am. Not the best preparation for a 6am start to climb a mountain... ooops....

So, I woke shortly after I went to bed. After a couple of strong cups of coffee I set off for the mountain. It took around 2 hours to get to the park headquarters by mini van. I was given some info on the mountain, I had to climb 6km to the lodge where I would be staying at Laban Rata, 2.7km below the summit. The usual thing is to reach the lodge on the first day, rest and then awake at 2am to complete the climb and watch sunrise from the summit at 4,095m above sea level. Then you begin a trek all the way to the park HQ where it begins. Park HQ is at 1,866m above sea level.

Despite my slightly worse for wear condition I took off well at around 10:30am and my guide Raplin had to slow me down a little, worried I may burn out along the way. I guess I was a little keen to get to the lodge for some sleep! He was a local from only 20 mins away and had climbed the mountain over 500 times. So he knows all there is to know about climbing this lump of rock. As part of the package they give you a packed lunch which weighs a ton. I munched my way through it in the first few kilometres, thankful for the extra calories to keep me going. We were making good ground, but the terrain became more and more tough. Some areas are wooden steps, about knee height. Not so bad for a couple, but after a few hundred the muscles in my legs and knee and ankle joints began to ache a little. Some areas are just rocks so I had to be careful to step on sturdy rocks or it would have been easy turn my ankle. So all that together with the thinning air, the higher I climbed the tougher it was - but as my guide reminded me again and again, we hadn't hit the hard part yet!!! We made it to the lodge in about 3 & 1/2 hours. Laban Rata, where the lodge is, is 6km into the trek & 3,261 metres above sea level. This was in good time - 30-60 mins better than average. The guide was pretty impressed and suggested that, as it was just 2pm and the weather was clear, that we take a short rest and complete the climb on the same day. The plus side for the final climb is to be able to lighten the weight of my backpack at the hostel. Raplin mentioned to me also that there is a tour of 40-50 people climbing, and they will all be setting off at 2am to watch sunrise. Since I seemed able, it would be better to climb in the day and watch sunset - where I would have the peak all to myself, and not fighting with tens of people for a photo opportunity at the summit. After an hours rest we took off around 3pm, 2.7km trail to reach the summit at around 800m higher, 4,095m above sea level. The summit trail is tough. It's flat, slippery sheets of granite in some areas. All I had to hold me up was my balance, and in some areas a piece of rope. There is a strong, cold wind blowing downhill, and if I lost my balance the weight of my backpack coupld easily have pulled me backwards and send me tumbling down the mountain. There were one or two incidents where I nearly lost my footing, and I had to take a minute to gather myself. It's hard near the top, couldn't move more than 5 or 6 metres without having to stop because my heart was pounding so hard and lungs are straining for oxygen. Legs were aching too, so bad, but a numb feeling also. They almost felt alien to me, just a couple of wooden sticks attached to my body. There was a couple of moments where I thought about stopping and telling Raplin that I cannot go on, but something kept me going. So, after about 2 hours we reached the summit. Absolubtely amazing, the most breathtaking sight I have ever seen. I could see for miles and miles, stunning scenery. All the pain and tiredness went away for those few moments while I sat & took it all in. Strangely enough, there's a wild dog that lives at the summit. I have no idea how it survives, there is nothing there but rock. After about 10 mins we began the descent back to the lodge.

Downhill, now that's a completely different challenge. Less work on the leg muscles, but the knees and ankles take a pounding from impact on the rocks, and I didnt have soft soled shoes so I felt the impact on every step. We took the same trail back as the sun was going down. The temperature drops quickly after sunset, and we were both feeling it now. To go down from the summit to the lodge I had to almost absail down flat sheets of granite. Easy to slip, and I did on more than one occasion. Legs were less responsive, and balance had all but gone. It was hard even to concentrate. In about 1 & 1/2 hours we reached the lodge. My guide told me to have something to eat, drink a beer and go straight to bed. He was pretty chuffed with the time we made on the hike, and I was very pleased with the achievement. When I got back I realised I had suffered wind burn on my face from the cold wind at the top. That was quite painful. I took a shower, had something to eat and took straight to bed. Not even time for a beer....

Next morning after a hungry mans breakfast we set off just before 8am from the lodge for the 6km return trek to the park HQ. I was feeling pretty good, but my knees were a bit sore. The trail down is very different, it is easier but more painful (if that makes any sense at all!). However, we were going well and made it to park HQ in around 2 hours. Every year there is a competition where people run the summit trail, I dont think I am ready for that! However, I would certainly climb that mountain again, or any other in the future. If you want to challenge yourself and have fun doing so, this is the perfect thing to do...

The next day I went to laze on the beach at Pulau Sapi, another of the islands close to KK. This island is popular for the beach, and the 30 or so monitor lizards which inhabit it. It is a little paradise. It has a really nice main beach, and two other hidden away gems. There is a jungle trail which leads all the way round the island which takes about an hour to complete. Sunset point is a high cliff that gives you an unobstructed view of sunset over the South China Sea. We couldn't see the sunset on this day the last boat leaves at 5pm, and so we would have to stay for a night to watch the sun go down. So we spent the afternoon lazing on the beach and swimming. Some really colourful fish in the water, unfortunately alot of the coral has died from trampling. We returned to KK and in the evening we took a walk (or a hobble really) around the china market as the celebrations for Chinese New Year were warming up.

The next day set off early to town to arrange my flight to Johor Bahru in the southernmost state of Malaysia Peninsula on Saturday. I would then have to travel by bus into Singapore and spend a day or so preparing to fly to Australia. In the afternoon we took off for Pulau Sapi again with a shed load of food and a cheap bottle of rum to keep us entertained for the evening. We arrived mid-afternoon, pitched tent by the beach and quickly took a walk to sunset point to watch the sun go down. Amazing views from here, as you can see from the pictures. The trek back through jungle terrain in the dark is quite exiting. There are wild pigs living on the island and we heard one running quite fast in some direction, trampling everything in its way. We stood still for a moment, not knowling if it was running towards us! Something like that could hurt you! There are snakes and other things to think about, and ofcourse the odd spiders web stuck to your sweat sodden face! A nice image, I know! Just trying to get accross that it's not just a walk in the park, trekking though jungle!

When we got back to the beach we made friends with the local beach watcher, Joe. He was from Philippines. His job is to make sure everyone camping on the island is ok. Poor bloke doesn't even get a bed to sleep on, he has to sleep on the beach. He told us the lizards don't bother him, it's the snakes he's worried about! He helped us empty half the rum in the bottle & set up a fire on the beach. We cooked up some dinner on the fire & watched the fireworks on the mainland...

Next morning woke early to watch the sunrise. It was Chinese New Years Day and we knew the island was going to host 200 people for a party. There wasn't much sea life, lots of crab holes on the beach, and some very interesting snake tracks all around the sand. Alot goes on once you've zipped up your tent and nod off to sleep for the night! We watched the sunrise and soon people were coming onto the island. So we packed up tent & took to a quiet corner of the beach. We lay there all day pretty much. The water is nice and clear, but shallow, and we both scratched our knees on the coral. Very painful. My friend Laura unfortunately decided not to put on any sun cream because she thaught she was 'hardcore' as she explained, and pretty much roasted herself in the sun for 4 hours. That turned out to be extremely painful in the evening, poor thing.. you only do that once..

We left the island around 4pm and took back to the hostel for Chinese New Year party. There was a specially organised dragon dance outside our hostel, when we arrived there was hundreds of people in the street cheering as the dragons danced in the street, drumbs abanging. It was amazing. We took to the balcony to watch from above but it was difficult to get a good view so my pictures are not so great unfortunately. We had some drinks & food at the hostel with the staff who are all really nice people and went out for a drink later on. My friend laura was feeling so ill, she lay for the evening covered in wet towels. Nasty sunburn with a heat rash...

Last day in KK.... an easy one.. said goodbye to a couple of mates who were going off to the other side of Borneo. After a stroll around the city sorting out a few bits & bobs myself & Laura, still nursing sunburn, made way back to the lodge and watched a couple of movies. Most places are closed still after Chinese New Year celebrations. Packed my bag in the evening and had a few farewell drinks at the lodge.... including a late night chocolate run for my sunburnt friend! Late finish, but nevermind, fly to Singapore tomorrow...

Absolutely gutted to leave Borneo. It has been the best times of my trip so far....

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Photos

Pulau Sapi (12)
View from sunset point at sunset

Dragon Dance
This performance was put on especially by the owners of our hostel. This pic is taken from the balcony of the hostel...

Mt Kinabalu
Stopped for a snack and was joined by a squirrel

Mt Kinabalu (2)
Starting to get a little steep

Mt Kinabalu (3)
Pitcher plants - use sweet sap to entice insects and then poison and eat them

Mt Kinabalu (4)
Sap being poured form pitcher plant

Mt Kinabalu (6)
Tricky terrain

Mt Kinabalu (7)
First view of the summit

Mt Kinabalu (10)
The lodge at 6km & 3,261m above sea level

Mt Kinabalu (11)
Summit trail now - after an hours rest at the lodge

Mt Kinabalu (12)
Surely can't get worse than this!

Mt Kinabalu (15)
Cloud chasing us up the mountain