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Published: November 4th 2006
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Pulau Sipidan
The most amazing underwater world I have ever seen. You can't stay on the island anymore, however there is still a large contingency of army personell there due to the kidnappings of 2000 and 2001. I have been here in Borneo for only 12 days, and have experienced a lifetimg of memories, and seen a lifetime of images. I do not want to leave, but alas my plane leaves for Bangkok tomorrow, to start my 4 week adventure in Thailand. I wonder if it will affect me like Sabah has?
From the jungle I went to Semporna, for a night's stay before heading off to Palau Mabul. I was really moving up in the world, having a real bed (though the mattress was still only a 2inch foamie) and squat toilets with ceramic footpads, so you don't accidently miss the toilet (VERY embarrasing! and messy). Still no shower though. We stayed at the Red Dragon Inn, a beautiful structure on the water in Semporna. 0800 the next morning after yet another breakfast of white toast and butter we were off to island paradise. We went with Uncle Chan's diving adventures, and I HIGHLY recommend them. 50 ringgit a day (about $15) gets you lodging and three meals, as well as snorkelling around Mabul. I payed an extra 160 ringgit to snorkel Sipidan, and wholy shit was it ever worth it. I never thought I would
see anything like that in my life. Sipidan is one of the top 10 dive sites in the world, with just as good snorkelling. There is a reef there that just drops hundreds of feet into the ocean. There's an actual wall of coral dropping into the ocean, with about 40ft of visibility. Eventually it just turned into this dark blue nothingness. I don't know if anything will ever compare to it. At one point I had 4 giant turtles gliding the waters around me, close enough to touch. An actuall herd of turtles! And four white tipped reef sharks! Totally freaked me out every time I saw one, but so cool to watch them swim through the water. They really are lean killing machines. I also saw the biggest school of HUGE fish. There must have been at least a hundred of them, all at least the size of my head. And there I was, swimming right in the middle of the school. They were all around me. Below, above, everywhere. I was swimming with the fishes, so to speak. As a matter of fact, it was all so amazing that I decided to take a Discover SCUBA course
Pulau Mabul
The kids were great. Although, the closer I got to the 5-star resorts, the more they asked for ringgit when their pictures were taken. the next day. That turned into a Basic SCUBA, which very quickly turned into Open Water SCUBA diver.
So this is not just snorkelling Cathy coming at you right now. It's Cathy G. Certified Open Water Diver extrodenaire! The diving was supurb, even though I haven't been able to hear properly since starting. Can't hear a thing, actually. I have to get ppl to talk right into my left ear to be able to hear them. Throw in a variation of accents and you have a lot of "what was that?" or "pardon me?" It was all worth it though. Saw a moray eel with the head the size of a football. A baracuda with teeth so large I could see them from a long distance. Crocodile fish and lion fish. Some of the neatest things were the very small fish and coral. The ones I would have totally missed had it not been for my instructor Dave. (This Dave was totally cool. And freaking gorgeous. AND from Canada! It was meant to be).
The accomodations on Mabul was 5 star resort, compared to what I have been experiencing. And that's including the rats, roaches, and giant bats.
Pulau Mabul
Uncle Chan's. What I considered to be a 5-star resort Flush toilets! Showers! Clean! I could have a shower without wearing shoes! My god but what a good feeling. The rats got my bar of sunlight soap though. I eventually found it under the bed (which was comfortable! and which I didn't have to share with anyone else!) half chewed. You could see the little rat tooth marks in it. At least I know it was a clean rat.
And although it was lovely in Mabul, and I really saw some freaking amazing things, and met some really great people, I still keep thinking about the jungle, and the river. I think I lost my heart to the Kinabatan (I don't think that's spelled right, but phonetically you will get the idea) river. I so badly want to go back there, and learn and see everything there is to know about it. Life was not easy there, but it was definately pleasent.
As I said, I am off to Thailand tomorrow. I didn't get to see Kinabalu Nat'l park, or any of the caves, but with the extra days on the island and in the jungle, I had to give them a miss. I will most definately be
Pulau Mabul
What was actually a 5 star resort
back here though. I missed so much in Sabah! And everything in Sarawalk. I am very sad to leave.
Laura, I don't know if you will get a chance to read this before your interview, but GOOD LUCK! I know everything will go awesome for you.
Hugs and kisses to all. And to the people of Borneo, a big Terima Kasih for all your kindness and hospitality during my Borneo Adventure.
Salamat Datang.
Cathy
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ceramic foot pads for the toilets squatters! WOW!
Is every adventure or tour place in Borneo run by Uncle someone or other. First you cavort around with Uncle Tan and now you're swimming and diving with Uncle Chan. Maybe in Malaysia they use Uncle like we in N.A. use Mr. I am so glad you decided to go diving. It is something you talked about alot and huimmed and haaad about and now just bit the bullet and did it! Good for you! I hope your ears can continue to stand up to the depths! Continue to have a wonderful adventure and take lots and lots of pictures. We love pictures! Love MOM