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Published: August 5th 2009
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The Kitschiest Place on Earth
If Walt Disney is the happiest place on earth, then Macau is the kitschiest place on earth. We took the one hour Turbo Jet ferry to Macau, the east’s version of Las Vegas. It was a Portuguese settlement, and it apparently is a unique intersection of European and Chinese culture - hopefully more so that Malaca in Malaysia. I heard we could get Sangria, so that was enough for me. When we arrived at the ferry terminal, many of the casinos offered a free shuttle directly to their door, so we picked one on the map that was close to where we wanted to go and hopped on board. We were dropped at Star World, where we entered the lobby but went no further. In order to hit any of the casino floors in Macau you needed to check your bag and we just did not want to do that. So, we figured we would casino hop and see what was interesting, possibly finding some place to snack.
Unlike Vegas, there is no strip. There is a cluster of old school casinos, like the Grand Lisboa, alongside Star World, and a new
Vegas Anyone?
The Wynn and the MGM Wynn, MGM Grand, and what looks to be a Caesar’s Palace that will open soon. We walked over to the Wynn thinking we could at least walk through some shops or grab something to eat, and I could use a restroom. We walked in just as music was playing and lights were shining. The ceiling panels were decorated with golden carvings of the Chinese astrology and they were rotating and opening. A giant chandelier dropped from inside the panels as the floor opened up to a large oak tree painted in gold. The tourists were going crazy - flashes popping, video cameras whirring. For what? After a minute or so it was over and there was a large gold painted tree in the middle of the foyer, and then it went back down. It was a gimmick if I ever saw one - “stop into the Wynn to see the Golden Tree appear magically” and then gamble away what little savings you have. The best part - I got to pee. Again, this was a casino entrance and we could not go farther. So, we went to the MGM. Same same but not really different. And, it was raining at
On the Plaza
Picture compliments of the tourist information centre. this point. Disappointed, we started to walk to the historical area - a street that was supposedly similar to a European shopping plaza.
We walked through a fairly deserted pedestrian area surrounding a water way, passed the Grand Lisboa, and were wondering, where do people in Macau eat? We saw banks and jewelry shops at every corner as far as the eye could see. There were some restaurants, but no food stalls or cheap outdoor restaurants, which plague every other Asian city we have visited. We finally arrived sweaty and hungry to this Senada Square - the historical center of Macau. The plaza was laid with white and black stones in a cool modern design, very Gaudi-like, and it did remind me of a shopping strip in Europe, possibly Barcelona. Then, we saw the McDonald’s and the Hagen Daz. Very cultural. We were beckoned by a restaurant tout into a four story building with several restaurants, one on each floor. We first hit the Portuguese, but it was way too expensive. Then, we stopped at the Chinese restaurant. We settled on some expensive dim sum, figuring we would have a snack and then figure how to get to this
Portuguese restaurant that was mentioned in the book, but at least we would not be starving. I have to admit, it was a bit cheesy, and probably touristy, but the dim sum was absolutely amazing, and if we did not have Sangria to track down I think we would have ordered several more rounds. We had fresh pork dumplings slathered in a spicy hot sauce, fried meat dumplings, bbq pork bao, and sticky rice with pork wrapped in a banana leaf. Yummy.
The restaurant mentioned in the book seemed really far away, but we thought we could take a bus there. We stopped at the tourist information office (which in China, the books usually say, are pretty worthless) and the woman confirmed that we could use Hong Kong dollars and we could take a bus to the restaurant, Fernando’s. She suggested, however, a Portuguese restaurant just around the corner which would be just as good, but not so far away. Because we just ate, and at this point just wanted some Sangria and to sit and read in air conditioning, we thought it would be a good idea. Instead of telling us where it was or giving us the
City Street
Now, this is way more Portuguese than Melaca name, she walked us out of the tourist office, down the plaza, and showed us where the restaurant was. Then she took a picture of us in the plaza. Hands down one of the friendliest information centre employees we have come across.
And, we had our liter of tasty Sangria, and then thought - what next? We sat in the air conditioning - it was probably the coldest place we had been to recently. I even wore a scarf. But, we had several hours until our ferry. We walked back over to the Wynn to walk through the shops. Then, we saw the next kitsch gimmick - the fountains at the Wynn. As we approached, the music started and the fountains started a little routine to the music, similar to the Bellagio in Las Vegas, but on a much smaller scale. Same same but different. After, we walked through the shops - the usual collection of Cartier, Tiffany, Gucci, Louis, Ferrari, etc. I reminisced about Vegas with friends, when my drunk girlfriends and I went into Tiffany at the Bellagio and tried on necklaces which were around $30,000. I think at this Tiffany they would have let me try
Fountains at the Wynn
Just like the Bellagio - same same but different on whatever I wanted despite the fact that I was sweaty and dressed like a backpacker bum. We then ventured back to the MGM to see if there was a café we could hang at. Instead, we were greeted with a lobby similar to the Bellagio, but on a much smaller scale, with the giant glass flower sculptures overhead. We found their atrium area, also a knock off of the Bellagio, and some seats to crash for awhile. After I finished my book, though, we hightailed it back to the ferry and walked directly onto an earlier boat - arriving back in Hong Kong 1.5 hours before scheduled.
I am glad we saw Macau. Maybe it was because we were there on a Tuesday in the middle of the day, instead of on a Saturday night. Or, maybe it was because we stayed in the older area of town, and did not hit the Venetian, Hard Rock, or any other casinos. I expected more glitz and glam. Instead, the area around the hotels was sleazy and run down. The Portuguese feel was certainly more real than in Malaca, but not by much. But, I think they will trout out any gimmick they can to take in the tourist dollar. We went to Macau for the kitsch factor - to say we had been to Macau. In that, it did deliver.
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Eric
non-member comment
There are many facets to Macau
as in the title.... but it takes time to explore. what you've seen, is indeed the touristy side. btw, the locals don't eat around the touristy area, too expensive, and not as good. there is a local coffee chain the serves excellent coffee, especially the blue mountain. Forgot the English name of the chain.... the Chinese translation, ironically, means San Francisco :)