This is the life! - Southern Laos (4000 Islands, Champasak, Bolevean Plateau, Tha Khek & Mohaxi Caves)

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Up through the unofficial border crossing into Laos. The most important question we were asked was if we knew how to mend cars as the border guard's had broken down! If this is a sign of life in Laos then it's a promising start.

All through Vietnam and Cambodia we were constantly harrassed by "Moto, Moto", "You buy from me". There is none of that in Laos. The level of spoken English is comparitively low and people have no interest in us as we tramp through their villages. They appear indifferent to us.

First stop is Si Phan Don aka 4000 Islands. During wet season it's more like 200 but the main 3 are still there and we stay on Don Det in a great bamboo hut. No hot water, no electricty but 2 days spent in a hammock is bliss. The weather isn't great and we are starting to worry what wet season will be like in Laos. Everything we own is damp and we are starting to smell. However if you love a sunset this is the place to come.

While we can still remember how to use our legs we leave and head for Champasak in a flat bed truck/bus. It may be designed for 10 people but there are over 20 of us in there (mainly big, tall Westerners) plus roof passengers and several bags that are moving - I don't even want to know what's in there!

Champasak is a bit off the beaten track and takes a bus, a tuk-tuk, a raft and a pedicab to get to! At the time Angkor Wat was in power in Cambodia, the Khmers also ruled southern Laos and Wat Phu is what remains of an amazing temple and and town. Though we only left Angkor a week past, this is a worthy trip and the buildings and views are amazing. A real reminder of how powerful Cambodia once was.

Since we missed hiking in Northern Cambodia we're not missing it here. Tad Lo is high in the Bolevan Plateau, with several waterfalls and hiking. The sun is finally out. First sunny day in Laos and in true British style I'm out in a skirt! However I somehow ended up sitting on a rock containing an ant nest. Next thing I know thousands of the buggers are streaming out and I'm getting bitten all over my arse! I'm still cringing. Ants in my pants - literally! Urghhhh.

A note on bus journeys in Laos. Though the timetable says 7 hours, do not be fooled. Factor in a stop while the bus is loaded with cabbages, another dozen stops to feed the locals, another stop to fill the bus with boxed foods, and a few stops while the driver who is high as a kite on their equivalent to RedBull, M-15, chats girls up. 12 hours later and smelling distinctly of cabbages we arrive in Tha Kek.

Southern Laos isn't that geared up for tourism which makes Tha Khek a great stopover. Limestone karst juts out of the paddy fields, holding caves and lakes within. It's Ha Long Bay on land. Other than our moped we have no roads, no signs and no idea. The guide book clearly says turn down a path in the village and you will see the cave entrance. On our 3rd time through the village we still see no sign. Until a local takes pity and shows us the way. What the book fails to mention it that during wet season there is a river - and no bridge. Keen to see this place we wade through the river - chest high between Lao children staring at us as if we are mad! We cleary are, as the next obstacle is a field full of cow shit! But we have come this far so on we go. And when we get there the strangest thing ever. A cave with a 6ft statue resembling Osama bin Laden! Weird. So back through the shit, and then the river!!!!

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