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Published: July 26th 2006
blog by Bronia Laos is a truly fascinating and enticing country. Landlocked by five countries,
China to the north,
Burma/Myanmar to the west,
Thailand to the south-west,
Cambodia to the south and
Vietnam to the east it has been subject to much invasion, political influence and international nonchalance over its history.
Its long history is complicated with various invasions by the
Siamese (Thailand), Cambodia and
Laos over its history with ruling Kings and Tribes vying for power. It became a French protectorate at the ended of the 18th century when
France united the various Lao states to become the plural
‘Laos’ using the
Mekong River as a natural border between
Thailand and
Cambodia.
The French were never much interested in
Laos other than using the country as a buffer between the British-influenced Thailand and the British occupied Burma/Myanmar. In 1866 the French declared in a survey that it was a
‘useless country’ as the Mekong could not be navigated for trade, there were no precious metals and it was too mountainous for large plantations.
It was this sort of snubbing attitude towards
Laos that seems to have meant it has been run over by many nations
in their attempt to protect their own borders or ideological standpoints. It was invaded at various times in recent history by the Chinese, the Vietnemese and the Americans.
During the
Vietnam War American B52 bombers sent from Thai bases to bomb
Vietnam during the war used to drop whatever bombs they hadn’t used on
Laos before returning to base.
Laos also was heavily bombed with Soviet Artillery, Napalm, Agent Orange defoliant etc. to try and flush out the hiding Vietnemese. To hide this truth - the
USA referred to Laos as the
“Other Theatre” in documents so that no criticism would be made by international organizations. Laos didn’t stand a chance.
Other shocking historical truths include the continual selling of illegal hardwoods across the border into
China, Vietnam and
Thailand by corrupt army officials and politicians who are meant to be protecting Laos’s people and future. Even the Laos National Electricity board plays the game by taking hardwoods as payment for linking towns to the Grid. This, combined with the slash/burn method of farming (cutting down trees, burning the hills for nitrogen fertilization to then over-farm to the point of making the land sterile) are some of Laos’
greatest problems. Considering the fact that for the locals 70%!o(MISSING)f non-rice foods still come from the forest, their future looks bleak.
It was with this knowledge that Sid, Kerry, Dave and Bronia entered Laos. Despite its proximity to all these countries
Laos is just beginning to be on the travellers trail.
Vientienne the capital of
Laos, sucked us in with her charm and quiet air and after finding a hotel we walked to a French boulangerie for delicious French-influenced cuisine. Salad nicoise, bagettes, croissants and iced coffee. Divine. We stayed in
Vientienne for 3 days to take in the sights and relax.
It was here that we saw the birth of
"Mannings Tours" which over the next few weeks grew to its now well renowned status (well, amongst us at least!).
"Mannings Tours" began one of our first mornings travelling as a foursome when it was suggested that we do the Lonely Planet guidebooks'
"Walking Tour." The LP Walking Tour is essentially a suggested walking route for travellers to do which takes in many of the key sites (temples, palaces, govm't buildings, parks, markets etc) in major cities. They can vary from 1 hour to 7
hours in length and is a great way to orientate yourself when you first arrive somewhere. It is these Walking Tours that became the infamous
Manning Tours as Dave became the permanent nominated Guide holding the LP and leading us down the streets, giving us historical summaries of the places we were visiting.
Such was its success that we have been discussing
Manning ToursFranchises, merchandise like T-shirts, Manning Tour umbrellas, cheesy baseball caps in gaudy colours (something we felt Dave was missing) so that he can be easily spotted within a crowd. Not forgetting stickers with our names emblazoned on our chests. At this point Dave seemed to think that guiding only three people did not justify this initial expenditure!
Our
Mannings Tour of
Vientienne took us to see
That Dam (the Black Stupa), so called because many years ago the Siamese (Thai) came in a stole the gold covering that surrounded it.
We also saw
Patuxai, an Arc de Triomphe-like monument in the centre of a large roundabout that is made from American concrete initially intended to make a new runway nearby some 30yrs ago. Where they eventually got concrete to make the now present runway
we were never told, nor how exactly all that concrete was taken without anyone stopping them and pointing out that it was not meant to be a monument. Nevertheless we took pictures and enjoyed the view.
We also saw the old
Royal Palace and some of the market streets that led us to some wasteland where we saw young children playing on dirt ground besides their shanty homes made from corrugated iron and plastic (see pics).
From
Vientienne we headed by bus to
Vang Vieng. We were promised an air-conditioned, comfortable and roomy bus. The bus we climbed on had no air-con, unless you count having the windows open as air-con, bags packed down the aisles and more tourists than there were seats, which was promptly solved by pulling out plastic garden chairs and placing them in the aisles for you to sit on. This is very common in South-East Asia. If there is an overbooked bus, no problem! Just pull out the plastic chairs and stools, throw some luggage in the aisles and off we go! - Never mind about seatbelts, you’re lucky if your seat is attached to the floor!
The road we took to
Vang Vieng was the infamous Highway 13, infamous because up until February 2003 it was common for tourists to be targeted (and killed) by insurgents who were protesting against the Communist government. Fortunately this practice has desisted in the current more peaceful political climate. Nevertheless, some buses on risky parts of the countries' roads still are escorted by armed guards.
Getting off the bus in
Vang Vieng was like stepping into another world. Nowhere in South-East Asia so far have we seen a town like this. It reminded us all immediately of a Wild West American movie set. Enormously wide dusty streets that flowed into town from one direction and continued out in a straight line into the sunset and mountains (literally) in the other direction (see pic). Low buildings bordered the dusty streets, many with wooden facades and signs that looked like any minute some American gunslinging cowboy was going to come out and challenge you to a dual. All that was missing was the hitching posts and saloon swinging bar doors.
Off the main strip were smaller roads and it was down one of these that we wandered to find a guesthouse overlooking the
Mekong river. We found a spectacular one with a balcony for only a few dollars and watched as the sunset over the mountains (see pic).
You really feel in
Vang Vieng that you are in the wilderness and that is exactly what travellers come here to experience. Well, that - and the drugs. The drug scene goes hand in hand with many travellers as they travel the globe and nowhere did we see it more prevalently than in
Vang Vieng where every bar and restaurant announced unashamedly on their outdoor menu boards the varieties of "Happy Pizza" (with Marijuana/pot/weed to make you "Happy"), "Happy Shakes” etc. We took a photo of the best menu we found to show you some of the other drug alternatives that could be obtained if Pot wasn't strong enough for you. Perhaps this is also why we saw more 'lie down TV' bars in this town than we'd seen anywhere else. Lie down TV bars are essentially made up of low slung tables with cushions, pillows and mattresses surrounding them so that you can essentially lie down and chill in an almost horizontal manner whilst still having a burger if you get the munchies. The TV
of choice is Friends episodes in never-ending re-runs and when we were there, the World Cup matches.
In
Vang Vieng we did what every traveller has to do when they are there, and that is to travel down the
Mekong River. The most common way is by inner tube where you get taken 10km up stream and then dropped off to sit in an inner tube letting the gentle current take you down stream, hands, toes and bum dipping in the water and stopping every once in a while at the bamboo bars built on the banks of the river where you can climb out and sit holding a cold drink and watch the river drift lazily past.
Other popular activities include hiking, mountain biking, visiting hill tribes, caving and kayaking. The four of us chose a day trip that included being driven to a site on the river 20km away, kayaking the full 20km back, stopping for lunch at a tribal village, seeing the grass tribe huts, walking through paddyfields and inner-tubing through some caves.
It was on this kayaking day out in
Vang Vieng that we met Sam and Kristy from
Adelaide who were a
fabulous couple on a three month extended holiday through South-East Asia before heading to
London for a wedding and then home to
Adelaide for work. Over the course of the day all six of us got to know one another and we had a great time kayaking along the river as
"Team Red" (guess what colour our boats were!).
We stopped at one of the bamboo bars along the river, drank some Coke & beer and had a go on the
"Flying Fox" (see pic) a bamboo bungee like contraption set up over the river. You had to climb up onto a high bamboo platform and then holding a rope swing out over the river (taking care to avoid any inner tubes of people that are drifting along) to plunge into the murky brown water rushing by. Dave and Bronia had a couple of goes each and Sam went a total of 3 times (Go girl !) much to our admiration.
From
Vang Vieng we hired a mini van that seated nine passengers up to
Luang Prabang a French colonial outpost nestled in the mountains. Sam and Kristy were heading up that way too so joined us in
The lazy Mekong that flows past the capital Vientienne.
Photo taken from the city waterfront - as you can see there is no development along the banks at all. Yet ..!Vientienne, Laosthe mini-van for the ride.
Luang Prabang is situated about 5 hrs up a road that winds up and up through the most spectacular rolling mountains and deep valleys with roads that hug perilously through the mountains.
As we passed we could see flat countryside with rice paddy fields and wooden houses on stilts give way to stepped hillsides for farming and grass hut houses. It was only a few years ago that this road was paved, it used to be a simple dirt track and as we careen along at an unnaturally quick pace in our mini van it becomes apparent that the locals and animals are not road savvy as they are not used to the increase in traffic past their front doorsteps that for years only had ox and cart.
So dangerous is our drivers driving that he honks continuously to move children out of the road and many a time we shake our heads in horror at narrow misses or at bends where we overtake trucks where we cannot see oncoming traffic.
Two hours into the journey we hit a duck. We turn our heads to see it dead and flattened in the
On the hellish bus journey from Vientienne to Vang Vieng
Note the plastic seats in the aisle and bags are all in the aisles behind us. Fun fun! road. We gulp a bit harder. An hour later we hit a dog. Its hind end is run over but it is still alive and we turn to look out the back window to see it yelping in pain as it cannot move its broken legs off the road. We are horrified and shout in anger at the driver that he must slow down. He slows somewhat. We ride in stunned silence that we have killed two animals in three hours. It so easily could have been a child. Dave raises the mood by pointing out the irony that we'd just hit a pub:
"The Dog and Duck" being an apt British pub name. We all laugh but speak about the horrors of that journey for days to come.
Luang Prabang, located within the bend of the
Mekong River was quaintly beautiful. We arrived mid afternoon amongst picturesque streets of ageing French colonial buildings. Sam, Dave and Sid stood on the side of the road guarding our bags whilst the gals: Kristy, Bronia and Kerry went room hunting.
The routine that has developed while travelling is that the girls (either Bronia on her own, or with Kerry, Kristy
Exploring Vang Vieng
Mannings Tours is taking route! Note Dave has the guidebook in hand ! etc) go hunting for a room to ensure that it is clean, comfortable, the shower works, the toilet is acceptable, the bedding clean and the price agreeable. The men, on the other hand usually hang out with the luggage in a café having a drink.
This seems vastly unfair that the men sit whilst the women traipse the streets looking for accommodation, but as the men have pointed out - they don't notice the dirt and scum and would probably pick a room the girls couldn't stand - so better that the girls pick and then all is good!!!
So the girls find a cute, clean hotel within the old district of
Luang Prabang and then we set out to hunt down some more amazing French food and iced coffees which are becoming a fast favourite in Laos. Sid, Kerry, Bronia and Dave continue to hang out with Sam and Kristy whilst we are in
Luang Prabang sharing meals and great conversation together.
We also educate them on the new creation of
"Mannings Tours" and they join us for Dave's guided tour round the Old Royal Palace, Temples, market, shops and the old French streets.
The
The surreal & 'wild-western' like streets of Vang Vieng
Give Vang Vieng another couple of years and all these streets will be paved & construction will have completely changed it. Royal Palace was particularly fascinating as it was left as it was in 1977 when the King, Queen and Crown Prince were taken by the Laos Communist government and locked in a cave where they died within four years from malnutrition and sickness. The government explained to the people of the country that they no longer had a monarchy as they needed to be ‘re-educated’ into Communist ways not admitting the truth of their torture.
Luang Prabang also has an amazing night market with fabulous home wares, clothing, jewelry and house hold ornaments that are distinctly Laos in craft and design.
On our last night there we were walking when a rapid storm hit the streets with strong winds, black skies and pounding rain. We took refuge in a café until it had subsided and the locals came out to examine damage, clear fallen branches and play footie in the streets.
We left Sam and Kristy in
Luang Prabang as they were moving onwards in a different direction, and Sid, Kerry, Dave and Bronia caught another crammed bus back down to
Vientienne. This time there were no plastic seats or luggage in the aisles but instead we
The typical Vang Vieng TV bars all playing "Friends" reruns!
Love it or hate it - it's an experience to see and take part in. had an armed guard who looked like he had a scary amount of artillery under his vest and a group of locals, who - not used to motorised transport like Westerners have no inner-ear balance and consequently suffer terribly from motion sickness. This meant that all the locals, of which there were about 15, were continually vomiting into plastic bags from 9am when we left until 5pm when we arrived in
Vientienne with the bus attendant (most buses have a driver and an attendant) running back and forth with sick bags all day to hand out.
Vomiting locals is not a new thing to us, we've gradually got used to the constant sound of retching on local buses, but this was by far and the worst cacophony of sound we had heard yet. The worst of it was that when we stopped for lunch they tucked into food which only served to fill their stomach with more content to get rid of when the bus started again. Oh yes, this is travelling in style!
We spent another night in
Vientienne in order to catch a bus the next day to
Pakse revisiting some good
Vientienne restaurants we had
discovered on our previous visit
"Sticky Fingers" and the
"Full Moon Café." When you've been eating rice and veg for weeks these are great little Western hang outs serving burgers, chips, sandwiches, soups and home comforts for Sid and Dave like Fish & Chips and proper Heinz Baked Beans.
Pakse is a rather non-descript town with little to endear you to return again. Where once it was a village, it was expanded by the French into a sort of interim-border stop for trade and other than a few hotels and restaurants has little else.
Pakse is, however, a good stopping point from which you can go see the old Champa ruins of
Wat Phu Champasak (see pic). The Champa were a people that used to live in these regions and extended as far as into Cambodia and down into southern-Vietnam. The architecture is much like Angkor (Cambodian) architecture and Sid, Kerry, Dave & Bronia had a great day out in a hired tuk-tuk that took us across a bamboo ferry and along a mix of dirt and paved roads to see it, stopping to eat delicious Green Papaya Salad with chili and peanuts in a café at
the base of the ruins.
Whilst in
Pakse we also went on another elephant ride which was Sid & Kerry's first. We rode for a couple of hours along the riverbanks and crossed the river twice near waterfalls which was spectacular.
Our next stop was the
4,000 Islands which lie a couple of hours south from
Pakse. The
4,000 Islands are a group of islands that lie in the middle of the
Mekong River as it begins to flatten and widen its course before entering
Cambodia on its way to the
Mekong Delta that lies in
Southern Vietnam.
Many of the islands are uninhabited, being only a few metres wide with river marshes sprouting from it, but a few of the larger have entire villages and communities that farm the delta mud into paddy fields. It's on these larger islands that you can stay and we chose the largest
Don Khong, with a 50km ring road to stay on.
The four of us had been travelling quite hard for the past couple of weeks and decided to use
Don Khong as a rest point. We sat on the river edge in restaurants watching the river life
drift past, we rented bikes and did the 50km ring road round the island which took in amazing sights of the Lao people bent over in paddy fields cultivating rice, rice farmers with their water buffalo and manual ploughs, huge hogs, chickens with chicklets galore, dogs trotting after us aimlessly, children playing in the dust, women washing dishes under their stilted houses and men in hammocks watching American wrestling on tiny dusty TV’s in wooden huts. American wrestling seems to be a huge fascination amongst the Thai, Lao and Cambodians - who knows why!
We passed petrol stations that were nothing more than wooden shacks with two petroleum barrels (one leaded, one diesel) with plastic siphons and a manual stop/start gauge and then past temples with monks walking round the courtyard in orange robes. Everywhere we cycled was the scent of heat, water and earth - a heady and memorable concoction.
It was on the island of
Don Khong that we adopted, for 3 days, a tiny waif of a kitten that was skin, bone, ear mites, covered in fleas, weeping eyes and nose and in a right state. None of the cats and dogs are owned on
the island. They are left to their own devices scavenging what they can and seeking the kind hands of tourist scraps to keep them alive. We nicknamed the kitten
'Button' and for the three days we were there we cleaned her, fed her chicken scraps from our meals and had her lying on our laps as we chilled on the open balcony in the evening. At night we could hear her crying for us outside our room doors and we'd open the door each day to find her somewhere near trotting up to us for cuddles and food. What a bunch of softies we were and we left her feeling sad as to her fate.
We also took a day out to visit the island of
Don Det a popular smaller island for hippy travelers. We rented bikes here and had a bit of a nightmare as we tried to cycle to some waterfalls through mud and pot holes that were designed for mountain bikes, not our cheap shopping cart road bicycles. Dave and Sid managed to make it to the falls, Bronia turned around and Kerry… well she did some sort of amazing detour that made her the
last to get back to the boat but never managed to see the falls. Dave and Sid then of course rubbed it in about how amazing the falls were and what Bronia and Kerry had missed!
We had only bought the standard 14 day Visas to enter Laos so our time was up very quickly and we could have quite honestly spent double or triple that amount of time there exploring. We left
Don Khong and the
4,000 Islands on a drizzling day heading for
Cambodia for our next adventure ....
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Virginie
non-member comment
Merci
Chers vous deux, Encore de merveilleuses photos qui nous permettent de voyager tout en restant chez nous. Elles nous inspirent pour choisir la prochaine destination de nos vacances. Nous sommes heureux de constater que vous nouez des liens à chaque nouvelle rencontre. C'est bien là l'image que nous gardons de vous. Continuez à nous en mettre plein la vue. TAke care. Peyo et Virginie