Phonsavan

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I took a mini bus from Vang Vieng to Phonsavan with 6 others tourists and 3 locals. I had been warned about the journey and had prepared myself for the windy, mountainous road with 2 travel sickness tablets. The driver was as crazy as I expected. Despite several very close calls and one direct hit we managed to side swipe several cows and chickens, a tanky water buffalo, a small child but squashed a chicken - much to my dismay. I think all this action had taken my mind off the fact that the car was jutting periously close to sheer cliffs so I was not car sick! We arrived in Phonsovan 6 hours laters shaken and glad to be alive.

Phonsovan used to be the old capital of Laos but it is now a small, dusty town about the same size a Corrigin. My guesthouse was gross and smelled like mould but for 30,000 kip ($3.50) a night I guess I can't really complain.

The town is the entry way into the mysterious Plain of Jars, which according to our enthusiastic tour guide Mr. Noud isn't a mystery at all. His words were something to this effect, "The mystery is just journalist talk. We always knew what they were". None the less, these massive, stone jars are impressive. They once contained offerings to the Gods and entire generations were burried around the outside of them. They belonged to a now extinct culture of made from indian, chinese, laos and thai people. Apparently these kinds of jars can still be found in these places too.

What I did not know before arriving in Laos was how heavily bombed it was. The statisitics are mind blowing. A few really well done information centres around town give tourists the depressing facts. Laos villagers are still affected today as 30% of all ordinace dropped did not detinate. Cluster bombs are the most commonly found, often by children. The villagers are in a sticky situation as the scrap metal from these bombs is worth alot fo money to them, enough to risk lives on a daily basis.

During our tour around the jars we also went to see Mr. Noud's soon to be built tourist lodge site. It is currently being cleared of UXO's and while we were there we watched as his assistant used a metal detector to unearth 2 UXO's in the space of 5 minutes. A mortar with its detinator still in tact and a hand grenade complete with pin. Heavy stuff for us, but to them just another day at the office. This world is so messed up!

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Photos

Cluster bomb
Just one of thousands that are unearthed every day around Phonsavan. The ball bearings inside pierce the flesh maiming or killing.

Hand grenade
Just what you would expect to find during an afternoon in the garden- NOT

Buffalo House
These farmers put to use an old areoplane door they found.

Fifty fifty
Out guide explains casually as he lights a cigarette that this red drum holds bombs that are 50/50. Meaning they're only half sure they won't go off. The sand bag is for protection. What the ????

Plane gun
Apparently this was once mounted to an aircraft.

Helmet scoop
Locals turned this old helmet into a scoop for watering plants.

Bomb find
Dug up right in front of my own eyes.

Spinning silk
A friendly lady smiles while we admire her handiwork

Useful stuff
Old bomb casing for stakes

Hot chilli
Drying in the sun

Comments

[brenda]

Messed up world
Hi my darling.... you said it! I can't believe we are still doing this to each other... usually to innocent children and women too! Will we ever learn? Sadly, I think not. Have put your date August 16 on the calendar.... frankly, I can't wait to hug you!!!! I have missed you, my darling girl. Keep safe - stay away from all that metal! All my love, Mum