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Published: December 2nd 2010
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Everybody off
Overnight stop Pakbeng Monday 24th March, 2008
When we finally arrived in Pak Beng last night, we made our way off the boat (via a gangplank of course) and then had to climb 100 metres up the steep slippery slope to the village. I guess if you are there when the water level is a lot higher, there’s not as far to climb!
While trying not to slip backwards (remember the backpacks) you spend the entire time fighting off the people touting for their accommodation.
I’d done some research (of course) and knew exactly where to head. So walking confidently without making eye contact with anyone, we turned left off the main road (onto a steep narrow road that runs parallel with the river) and headed for a guesthouse called PHET SOUXAI.
I’d read a travel blog about this place, and as luck would have it, it turned out every bit as good as it had been described.
The guesthouse was built in 2005, and was made in traditional Laos style from wood, and had beautiful balconies and deck areas overlooking the Mekong.
Took quite a bit of doing, but we managed to bargain the price down from THB 500 (AUD$17) to THB
350 (AUD $12) for each room. We were getting 3 rooms (Ian & I, Lucas, Kylie & Kier).
Pak Beng runs on generator, so the electricity is switched off at 10.30pm each night and back on at 6.30am. Each room is provided with a torch on the bed! We had rooms 207 & 208 so can vouch for those, but if you are in doubt, just ask to see the rooms first before committing to anything.
Down to the balcony outside the restaurant area to enjoy the fabulous view, drink beer and eat a feast of chicken, buffalo, rice, noodles, vegetables, spring rolls and curry. Dinner and beer cost us about $8 per head, which by Lao standards is not exactly cheap, but believe me we weren’t complaining. It was sensational and the location was the best in town!
Two young lads who worked there (Telephone and Som) were great value and lots of fun. They began teaching us some words in Lao and of course we returned the favour by teaching them some English. This happens everywhere you go in Asia, where they are very keen to improve their English skills.
Important words to know. “Cop Jai” = thank
you. “Cop Jai Lie Lie” = thank you very much.
Took the opportunity to have showers before the power went off, then headed back to the bar to drink more beer and sit around by candlelight knocking back shots of whisky Lao Lao. Try it if you dare. Similar to Italian Grappa, or Chinese / Vietnamese distilled spirit.
Crashed out on the rock hard beds (I told you to get used to it…) and slept like a rock in the pitch dark deadly quiet village of Pak Beng.
Tuesday 25th March, 2008
I woke up ultra early the next morning (5.45am) and crept out to sit on the balcony to watch the village wake up and breathe in some serenity. After talking with Telephone and Som last night, we were sorry that we had purchased our slow boat ticket all the way through to Luang Prabang. It would have been lovely to stay a couple of nights here and check out the surrounding area – lots of trekking and waterfalls we’re told. Just pay a local to come with you to make sure you don’t get lost!
Grabbed some rolls to take with us on the boat and
got underway about 9.30am. Another great day of doing not much but chatting, reading, eating and drinking beer.
There were most of the same faces as yesterday (you don’t necessarily get back onto the same boat, just the next boat that is leaving). So there were a few new faces as well.
Apparently some of these people had been talking to a group of Irish guys in Pak Beng last night. Turns out these Irish guys had lost the money they’d paid in advance in Bangkok, and had to pay for their boat fare again.
Once the guys got into Laos, nobody was interested in their ‘prepaid’ ticket and they spent hours arguing about it. Eventually they got told that the slow boats weren’t running because the water level was too low and they would have to stay overnight! All designed to get extra money out of them of course. In all probability they figure anyone silly enough to part with money in Bangkok when they didn’t need to, were probably silly enough to fall for anything! The boys knew this was fabricated, but by then it didn’t matter, the last of the slow boats had in fact left for
End of the line
Walking the gangplank in Luang Prabang the day anyway.
But the boys were upset now, and decided to risk their lives by taking the ‘fast boat’ to Pak Beng then getting on the slow boat for the 2nd day. The fast boats are like speed boats with absolutely no safety features or comfort at all. They travel at breakneck speed (the entire trip to Luang Prabang can be done in about 6 hours instead of 2 days), and helmets are provided. As a precaution, it’s probably a good idea to have a chiropractor on standby at the other end.
Be afraid, be very afraid.
We made it into Luang Prabang around 5pm and the minute you get off the boat it is the same 1000 touts. We headed off to look for somewhere, with people shoving brochures under our noses every 30 seconds. Eventually I saw a brochure that I liked, and we followed the guy on his little motorbike to the SHAYADA guesthouse.
Gorgeous room overlooking a temple, just a short walk behind Mount Phousi. Would highly recommend this guesthouse, price was USD$35 for the 3 of us per night.
This room was definitely several steps up from what we have staying in, but what the heck!
Great beds, (almost soft) and fantastic shower with lots of hot water, and we even had water pressure!
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