Siam Sunrise, Mekong Sunset

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The following covers all of the time from leaving Chiang Kong in Thailandon the morning of 14th to leaving Luang Prabang on Monday morning 18th September (and a sad day that was).

First, and continuing impressions of Laos is that it is fantastic. This morning we were out of the fabulous guest house and packed and ready to cross the river (and the border) into Laos, saying goodbye to Thailand. It was sad, and with much non-purchase regret (for the thai triangle pillows) we boarded some very skinny boats, packs and all and zoomed across the mekong. We were met there by our local guide Mr Kamfun (or fun for short). After all of the border formalities and money exchange we jumped into some jumbo's (see the description of seongteouws from before) and drove for about 5 minutes to another jetty on the Mekong. The first impression of Laos we got was a stall selling bottles of Lao whiskey with dead Cobra's and other snakes and insects contained within them (apparently quite a nice brew!!!).

We boarded our slow boat for the journey down the mekong. Day 1 on the boat was very relaxed. We travelled for 6 hours, played Lao card games with Fun, read books, had a few snoozes and generally admired the gorgeous view (and of course happy snapped away). We arrived at a little village called Pakbeng at about 4pm and had to carry the packs up a very big hill to the guest house. Rooms were quite basic and electricity was via a very sporadic generator (as was that in the restaurant making for some very interesting mood lighting). Over dinner several of us developed two new cocktails, both based on my pink grapefruit vodka and different fruit juices (including the green oranges from bangkok!), which we aptly named Siam Sunrise and Mekong Sunset. We even got to sample the beginnings of one, with some freshly squeesed lime juice.

Bright and early the next morning we jumped back on the slow boat and headed for Laos' second biggest city Luang Prabang, and definitely the most beautiful. Along the way we stopped off at a local hill tribe (the Hmongs) and saw how they live very basically, and also stopped in at the buddha cave which is a set of two caves crammed with buddha statues of various shapes and sizes, quite an interesting, and slightly bizarre sight.

Arriving in Luang Prabang at around 4pm we got driven to our next guest house in more jumbo's. Arriving at "Thongbay Guest House" we found that we had severely underestimated Intrepid. This place is possibly one of the best places I have ever stayed. Bungalow style rooms around a fabulous courtyard, beautifully decorated beds and a bathroom that was far better (and roomier) than any experience so far. Tammy and I even had our own resident lizard who we nicknamed Horatio. The best thing was the cold Beer Lao in the fridge and the thai-style (but different) triangle cushions on the balcony to assist in our relaxation (coincidently breakfast was served on the balcony every morning). FANTASTIC.

After relaxing for a while we jumped into a jumbo and headed into town for our first experience of the night market. I was in heaven! Great stuff to be had here at somewhat ridiculously cheap prices. As a result my pack became somewhat heavier after three days in Luang Prabang.

On Saturday morning (after previously mentioned breakfast on the balcony - Tammy and I decided to eat like locals and have the noodle soup) we jumped in to a jumbo and went for a 2 hour tour to the old palace, which is now a museum. Very interesting with alot of information about the last King, who was sent to exile when the communists came into power (by the way Laos is the most lax communist government ever!). Stories differ on whether the royal family died or actually move to Switzerland!. All the same it was a pretty interesting place.

After the tour we headed back to Thongbay where 4 of us undertook a Laos Cooking school class which was absolutely tops. And we ate like kings! To much for all of the group to finish (even after we invited the other 5 group members to help us finish!). Needless to say not much was consumed by way of food that evening. This evening was Jen's birthday so 5 of us walked into town (stopping along the way for a Beer Lao break!) and headed back to the market. I shopped better this night but alot quicker too so we quickly got to the "Vibe Bar" for birthday drinks. After quite a few beer Laos and a cocktail or two, with much yawning we decided to get a jumbo back to Thongbay. But not before the heavens opened and we were drenched through!.

Next morning 5 keen bunny's amongst us decided to go for the "optional" trek to the waterfall. Three hours of walking up and down muddy hills in the swealtering heat. It was hard, and we were filthy but the sight of the gorgeous waterfall at the end made it all worth while. We swam and jumped off the waterfalls and made a frugal attempt at cleaning our shoes and socks. Didn't work and mine still stink. I don't thing they'll be making it back to Australia with me.

After the swim we went to see and feed Phet who is a tiger who was saved from poachers as a cub and is cared for by the national parks people. Also we saw a whole group of crazy asiatic bears who are also being cared for there.

Sunday night we enjoyed a MASSIVE Laos BBQ dinner which contained the most western food that we had seen since leaving home. Potato soup, garlic bread, fish and chicken, mashed potato and homemade fries a huge salad and a birthday cake for dessert. It was awesome but by this stage a few of us are seriously becoming concerned by the size of our waistlines. Monday morning we were up bright and early preparing for the 6 hour minibus ride to the next destination Vang Vieng.

(P.S It's actually Sunday 24th when i'm writing this and I am now in Hanoi. Just haven't had enough time to sit down and update) but will try and finish of the Laos update soon - needless to say I love Laos and will definitely be going back!).

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