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Asia » Laos » West » Luang Prabang
June 30th 2006
Published: June 30th 2006
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Laos from the airLaos from the airLaos from the air

The rolling hills of Northern Laos from the air. This is one of the most isolated parts of South-East Asia.
Hello ! This entry is coming to you from our second country on this trip !

We left Lopburi yesterday morning, waking at six in the morning in order to catch the 7.07 to Bangkok Airport. We walked from our hotel to the railway station (only about 500 metres) and got some breakfast snacks to sustain us on the train journey. The station was already busy, mainly with schoolchildren, all in their pristine uniforms, and office workers heading to neighbouring downs. I'll hardly call Thailand a "commuter society" but there seemed to be a fair few commuters there...The train was already quite busy so we wedged ourselves into a narrow bench with our bags between our knees. The train squeaked out of Lopburi only a minute or so after schedule. Arrival time at the airport was 9.14. The journey was uneventful, although the time was brightened somewhat by the regular passage of snack-sellers, who would announce their presence loudly from several carriages away. Drinks, sausages, rice and curry (at 8am...), all sorts. They seemed to do a roaring trade. Occasionally a housewife would heave herself and her heavily laden shopping baskets onto the train at a market town and get
PG632 from BangkokPG632 from BangkokPG632 from Bangkok

Psychedelic aircraft !
off at the next stop - some of these baskets had whole fish poking out of them !

We arrived bang on time, and crossed the overhead walkway to the airport terminal, over the motorway. Bangkok was still another whole hour away down the line ! We checked in our baggage and spent the remainder of our advance time before the flight queueing to have our exit stamps...

Our Bangkok Airways flight to Luang Phabang left on time, and aside from the presence of an exceedingly annoying screaming 4 year old behind us ("Daddy ! Is the plane going up or down ? Daddy ! Is the plane going up or down ?"), this too was uneventful. The last 10 minutes of the flight were exhilarating, as we descended extremely rapidly into the small bowl surrounded by hills that Luang Phabang is located in.

On arrival we realised that we had stashed most of our greenbacks in our checked luggage, and didn't have enough to cover two visas as $30 each ! Whoops...plagued by visions of being turned away, on arrival in the terminal I immediately explained, in my best Lao (!), to the official stamping my
Meandering MekongMeandering MekongMeandering Mekong

Luang Prabang is centred on a "tongue" of land surrounded on three sides by the Mekong. This flows all the way to the South China Sea...
passport that I'd need to fetch some money from my checked baggage to pay for the second visa ! Luckily this worked and we managed to escape from the airport without too much delay.

We shared a taxi into town (5 minutes) with a lost-looking Japanese woman I approached in the queue for visas. She was very grateful and it allowed us to split the (fixed) cost of the taxi. We found our first choice of hotel, Chittana Guesthouse, straight away. The young Lao running the place (going by the name of King Kong) was very charming and really funny - he warned us to watch out because "Luang Phabang gets very busy !".

Could he have been more wrong...Luang Phabang is with little doubt one of the most delightful places I have ever been in my life. I think Alex would agree. The photographs will speak a thousand words. This is a beautiful, sleepy town, surrounded on three sides by a mighty Mekong, and inhabited by wonderful, charming, friendly inhabitants. Young monks in yellow robes walk the streets (and surf the internet !), stunning typically Lao wats are tucked away in back streets, French colonial-style houses -
Where does this bit go...Where does this bit go...Where does this bit go...

A monk adjusts his robes against the jaw-dropping Wat Xieng Thiong.
some well preserved, some charmingly crumbling - are to be found everywhere. Luang Phabang is like a dream. Look at the photos and wish you were here...


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Boules !Boules !
Boules !

When in Laos, do as the French...a game of petanque by the Mekong.
IndochineIndochine
Indochine

Frenc architecture abounds in Luang Phabang, the whole town a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Lao Lao !Lao Lao !
Lao Lao !

Enjoying a well-earned cocktail of Lychees, lime juice and "lao lao" rice whisky. Packs quite a punch !
Haute cuisineHaute cuisine
Haute cuisine

A fine relic of the French...the food here is in complete contrast to the city's utter isolation from the rest of the world.
All those rooves...All those rooves...
All those rooves...

The astonishingly beautiful Wat Xieng Thong in central Luang Phabang. Gorgous sweeping eaves and interlocking rooves - this temple is said to be the most beautiful in SOuth East Asia.
Wat Xieng ThongWat Xieng Thong
Wat Xieng Thong

Gilded wood adorns all available surfaces. UNESCO is funding the teaching of ancient techniques to young monks and novices, to allow conservation of this extraordinary sturcture for future generations.
Nearly dinnertimeNearly dinnertime
Nearly dinnertime

Sticky rice steaming in the street. A ubiquitous sight which sums up the beauty of Luang Phabang.
Roving boulangerieRoving boulangerie
Roving boulangerie

Baguettes for sale in the streets of Luang Phabang. Freshly baked every day.
Luang Phabang and the MekongLuang Phabang and the Mekong
Luang Phabang and the Mekong

A stiff walk up some 200 steps was well worth it. Wow...


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