Kicking Back in an Asian fantasy land.

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It took eight hours to get from VNTN to Luang Prabang. This was our token, Asian bus journey: round and round the mountains, hanging on for dear life as the bus swerved and twisted as it clung to the narrow rocky road. In addition we had been harbouring the misconception that never again would we be exposed to Thai pop music: this was a misconception. It wasn’t until 2003 that Laotians were permitted to make ‘pop’ music, so it is really a fledgling industry and, as I understand it, Laos tends to look to Thailand for it’s popular culture needs. What this means is that Thai pop music and their synonymous karaoke videos have crossed the border. Thinking that seats closer to the front of the bus would give us a better view, instead we were subjected to seven hours of cringe-worthy, cheesy, Thai pop. We were given some respite when a by dint of good fortune, the driver opted to air Charlie Chaplin’s ‘The Circus”. (The man’s a hit in Thailand, as is Mr Bean). Of course this silent caper was saturated in Thai, the country seems afraid of silence: but it was a welcome relief.

So when we finally arrived in Luang Prabang, we were very pleased. And after a bumpy journey into the tourist hub (in which we had to get out and push at one stage), we found a charming hostel overlooking the Mekong and not overstretching our pockets.

Luang Prabang is the second largest city in Laos and it and VNTN have played tennis with the status of capital for centuries. It is very remote: there is an airport in the city, but Laos’ mountainous heartlands mean that a railway and more than one road are too difficult and costly to construct. It is accessible by the Mekong which flows alongside the Western edge of town, splitting into a tributary at the South Western tip. It is a city with an interesting history, and the influence of it’s inhabitants over time on the character and atmosphere of the city, have earned it World Heritage status.

And it really deserves it. It’s beautiful. I guess in a funny sort of way it made me feel grown up because I knew that it was exactly the kind of city that my parents would adore. The clean, quiet streets were adorned with beautiful French colonial buildings- all cast to type but retaining their own uniquely seductive character. The charms of serene Luang Prabang inspired tranquility and gentle awe. The mellow night market was populated with lovingly crafted Laotian souvenirs ranging from opium pipes to hand sewn textiles. And everything surrendered to the peaceful tranquility of the Laos countryside, in accordance with an apparently self imposed curfew at around 11pm.

But it was also weird. Here in the remotest place I had ever been was a fantasy land. Aspects of Laos culture were selectively represented by the wares and the food of the market stalls. Above all the colonial heritage of the city was present: the food and the drink and the continental bars and restaurants, more continental (or French?) than anywhere I had visited on the European mainland. It was totally unexpected, and one of the most beautiful places I’ve ever been.

We spent three days and four nights in Luang Prabang. We took a trip to one of the few tourist spots in the area, a gorgeous waterfall 20km from the city. Set in the Laos jungle, the water flowed down through several levels creating shallow turquoise pools for visitors to float and frolic nonchalantly around in. On the way back, our coach of ten or so assorted tourists were offered the chance to go to an orphanage- politely we refused and headed back, keen to remain locked into our Asian fantasy!

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Photos

Your my waterfall
Cowboy in a pool. Check out my beard.

Bridge too far
Bridge. River. Etc.

Sunset over the Mekong
Overlooking the sun setting on the Mekong from a temple on a hill. Great caption.

Piss break
LEAVE US ALONE THAI POP!