Curfews and guns...

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Here we go...another little installment, and hopefully pictures to be included.

Sara and I are here in Vang Vieng, a small back packers 'haven' just north of the capital, Vientiane. Seemingly we have arrived here at a very interesting time as over the last few days the ongoing insurgency has been rekindled with a local (possibly a police officer or solider) being killed by the Hmong, a tribal people that have been fighting the communist government (on and off) for a couple of decades. The fighting had apparently all but concluded a couple of years ago with the surrender of a large cache of weapons by the rebels (whom I might add are, and have always been, sponsored by the CIA and Americans). For some reason, one that I'm not completely sure of, there seem to be some new disputes.

The national curfew, 12 midnight, which is usually losely enforced with a laissez-faire attitude has been rolled back to 10pm and the local authorities and police are going so far as to clear people out of bars and cafes at this time and wait for, or escort, people to their places of residence. Tanks with armed soliders riding atop are patrolling the roads and both the internet and phone lines were disconnected for the last couple of days; assumedly to make monitoring communications in the area easier. As foreigners we are the last people the insurgents choose to target, the danger, and motivation, for us is being in the wrong place at the wrong time; thus the reason for keeping people off the streets (well one of them). The area where the insurgency and rebel groups are centered is just northeast of Vang Vieng, an area labeled as the Samisoban (spelling might be off) Special Zone. This region is clearly closed to travellers, though some of the adventure tourism operators in the area were using some of the land for rafting, trekking and kayaking tours.

Now I'm writing this not to worry anyone, but because despite the danger (very little), it is rather exciting watching this unfold. There are limited sources of information, and all national media is state controlled; there is no where to get a newspaper here and very little attention is paid to Laos by the international media (i.e: CNN or BBC). I'm looking forward to learning more when we arrive in Vientaine.

The last 2 or 3 weeks have been spent travelling by bus and boat from Chaing Mai to Chang Klong and accross the border (via the Mekong River to Laos). Austin, Elliot, Sara and I met a group of Americans upon crossing the border and after some friendly jokes about their countries history in the region we spent our first night drinking Laos whiskey with a friendly and outgoing Japanese traveller on his university break, Tomiko. The next couple of days saw us coast down the Mekong River with an overnight stop in Pak Beng where we stayed in possibly the worst place of our travels; its savng grace was the fact that it also housed the best Indian restaurant I have ever experienced.

We arrived in Luang Prabang, tired and sore from a cramped boat ride that lasted 2 days, with the evenings cooling down substantially we rushed to find a place to stay settling on a guest house with a room that cost us each $2 (US) a day...not too shabby. That night we headed out for drinks, meeting up with a girl from Toronto, living in Bangkok and working for an organization/company (GAPP Tours)that facilitates young people looking to travel and work abroad. Since the bars close at midnight the 5 of us jumped into a tuk tuk (a massive covered tricycled that serves as a taxi) and had the driver take us to the 'after hours' spot...a completely North American bowling alley/bar...WOW!!!!! Good times, but probably the last thing, or place I expected to visit here.

All in all Luang Prabang was a nice city (officially named as a world hertiage city by the United Nations in 1995) housing the former Royal Palace. It has a rich national and colonial past and serves as a monument to the times that existed before the communist revolution, and their expulsion/execution of the royal family in the 1970's. The palace itself has been converted to a museum and is fairly nice. In the center of the city, just above the river, sits a temple ontop of a mountain from which everyone watches the sunset over the Mekong River; unfortunately at this time of year the view is badly obstructed by smoke from the 'slash and burn' farming techniques the locals employ.

Well, this is getting long, so to wrap up, here I sit in Vang Vieng, a place that caters to those like myself, about ready to leave for Phonsavan and the Plain of Jars (similar to Stone Henge) before turning south again and making for the capital. This little town has let us do some tubbing down a river sprinkled with bars boasting rope swings and cliff jumping (amazing!!) as well as deep limestone caves housing temples and ancient Buddha statues. One night was even spent in the bar next door playing international trivia with a tonne of other travellers...with buckets of fresh pinneapple and rum, it was the best way to meet people and learn I have ever found.

So until next time...

much love,
ME

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Comments

[Tony...AKA CUNT]

Guns....Love Gravy and Jungles
Mordechai....Lovely mate, good yarns,keep em coming,we need to see more pics. I have a request for some male nudity in the rainforest...... There's nothing more sexier than a man with a nice penis in the rainforest.... I LOVE YOU PS....If Carver's parents or any elderly folks read this, just remember i have no class and i'm Australian.......and Carver introduced me to this.. HEY...Stay safe and enjoy you're travels