Don Det, Laos

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We started our voyage from Thailand on a ferry, and landed at our Lao destination of Don Det on a boat as well. Again, we are island bound, but this time we are located within the ‘4,000 island’ area of Laos—a scattering of islands in southern Laos amidst the Mekong River. We are on the southern tip of Lao, bordering Cambodia. In France’s conquest of Indo China in the late 1800’s, this area imposed difficulty to trade because of the various waterfalls which stopped ships from continuing the journey north towards China or south towards Vietnam. There are a variety of relics including train tracks and French walls within the river that somehow helped the shipping process.



Upon arriving here by boat just around sunset, we were pointed to the ‘sunset’ coast and the ‘sunrise’ coast for accommodations. The island is essentially set up with bungalows for guests on the east and west coast, while rice paddies fill the center of the island. When we had exhausted our options on the sunset coast, we cut through the rice paddies to the sunrise coast, with our hunger mounting. As we plunged through someone’s backyard, we noticed fresh baguettes coming from the oven. Not only were we starving, but psyched to eat some baguettes after very few wheat products in the past month. We praised the French influence as we marched through the paddy fields, dodging water buffalo in our path and pushing through flocks of chickens and ducks.



After a wonderful nights’ sleep, we woke up to a lovely sunrise along the river, and explored our island, Don Det, and the neighboring island, Don Khon by bike. We were directed to the Tat Somphamit waterfalls. We understood immediately why trade was difficult, as these waterfalls made the rapids of the Grand Canyon look like a gentle stream. As the sun was setting, we passed through the ‘hub’ of Don Khon, and were invited to drink some ‘Beer Laos’ with some Laotian men. They happily poured us beers and clinked glasses with us, as they sang along to Laotian music. There were no local women drinking with the men, but they seemed to welcome me as an extension of Phil.



The following day we went kayaking on the Mekong. The safety talk essentially went something like this: “your life preservers make pretty good cushions. This is how you paddle forward, this is how you paddle backwards. Stay behind us so you don’t go over the falls.” Good times, with some freshwater dolphin spottings and lunch in Cambodia. We had additional river time as we tubed down several days later. The waters of the Mekong are questionable as far as cleanliness is concerned, especially considering where these waters are coming from and how many people live in China. Although not so much trash is visible, we definitely noted some homes and restaurants throwing their trash directly into the river. We were sure to shower thoroughly after all immersions into the river.



Our trip is ending with the ‘Head of the Mekong’ regatta (or sorts). Although the rowers are not quite as slick as Joe’s rowing team in college, villages have gathered for races along the Mekong river—in a long canoe like boat filled with about 12 paddlers, paddling with one paddle each, and a Laotian on the stern is in charge of steering. Music, food, and general merriment accompanied the day.

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Photos

Falls
These falls are the biggest (by volume) on the Mekong River.

Getting home
We figured this truck was just for the kayaks until our guide asked us to hop in.