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Published: January 15th 2006
Lay back relax, take in the sights and sounds of island life from the comfort of a hammock. Laos is one of the most relaxed countries in the world and Don Det is one of the most relaxed places in Laos, does this make it the most relaxed place in the world? Not if your logic is slightly more developed than this simple statement, but it was very very relaxed. The perfect place to spend lazy days that stretch into lazy weeks with that significant other. Lacking a significant other I spent a few days on bicycles collecting punctures, afternoons tripping around waterfalls stubbing bruised and bloody toes, and evenings playing guitars.
Don Det, is a small island in area known as Si Phi Don (Four thousand islands), southern Laos, close to the Cambodian border. The island has a host of cheap bungalows to stay in, the average price being $1.50 a night. During the French colonial days from the 1860's to 1900's the islands were used to transport boats up river on Laos' only railway, a system of cranes must have pulled boats out of the river placed them on trucks, and transported them 14km upriver avoiding the powerful
rapids and waterfalls. The islands of Don Kon and Don Det were linked by a low arched bridge that stands to this day, the track has long since disappeared but lacking much else to do we followed the trail through Don Kon to the tip of the island and views of boats chasing Irrawady river dolphins and the Cambodian border.
I met Matt and Mary on the bus to Pakse and Don Det, both at the end of long travels, we ditched the usual traveller conversations and moved straight onto “did you knows” and quick fire geography quizes... “name the nine countries that border Germany”.
After a few days it was time to move on, time to make progress on my five new countries in 2006 resolution. Matt, Mary and I opted for the easy tourist ticket straight to Siem Reap crossing the Cambodian Lao border.
A dusty road, and a shed at customs, our guide for the border crossing introduces himself. A funny little man, with a combover and thick rimmed glasses. He tells us there is a $5 fee for getting across the border, I tell him I have my Visas, I haven't overstayed, my
passport is in order, what is the "fee" for. Um er, he starts on the bullshit; "is it a bribe?", "yes". A straight answer from a shifty man, a rare thing. I pay my bribe to ensure getting across the border smoothly.
Despite oiling the works of the border crossing, it was dragged out to a hefty four hours, waiting at one shed while visas on arrival for Cambodia were obtained for some (new in the last few months) - and all the luggage was packed onto a minibus, then half taken off, then a second minibus was promised, the second minibus never arrived, everything back on to the original minibus and everyone squeezed on heading to Stung Treng. There were eighteen people in a minibus designed for 12 and the little one said - "are we nearly there yet?". The bus was packed, the roads continued to deteriorate, there is a lot of construction work on the road from Lao to Phnom Penh, but not one single thing is finished.
With buttocks numbed and bodies jolted we arrived at the Mekong for the boat crossing to Stung Treng. Lunch, another minibus and we are on the way
Four Thousand Islands
Where the meandering Mekong splits and grows powerful and strong.to Phnom Penh. A more comfortable bus and a 2 hour stop while the most incompetent mechanics known to man try to change a tire, the Cambodian driver refuses to use the jack point on the vehicle and instead lifts up the vehicle from the rim of the wheel, builds a small pile of bricks under the axel, lowers vehicle to rest on bricks, the bricks break, minibus jolts to the ground, brick peices flying, repeat. All of this done in the middle of the road at night on a busy highway, trucks firing airhorns while passing the crouched men trying to change a tire. Farang obviously know nothing about changing tires and not one of the five monkey mechanics would listen to any suggestions. Eventually when the small pile of rubble under the minivan grew high enough to support the weight, the tire was changed. Now a new problem, the minivan would not move, the driver starts to rev the engine and it strains and shuffles a few feet forward. We show him how to take off the handbrake, and get back on the road to Phnom Penh.
Just after midnight we arrive in Phnom Penh take the
Rocks at the Waterfalls.
Where I damaged my toes... over and over again. first guesthouse with space, first thing in the morning more musical buses and I'm on the road for Siem Reap.
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Pam
non-member comment
Great journal
I really enjoyed your eloquence and pics. My son has been in Asia for five months now, traveling around many of the places you mentioned. Your blog has given me much more info than his sketchy emails, and it is so beautifully written, a real coup in these times of email, text messaging, and im-ing. As a retired English teacher of 35 years, I am thrilled to see that a practioner of language still exists in the young of today. Great job.