Clashing of the Giants


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Asia » Japan » Osaka
March 25th 2006
Published: April 13th 2006
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Parade of ChampionsParade of ChampionsParade of Champions

Sumo consists of many different ranks, and before each division began its matches, the wrestlers would all enter the dohyo, form a circle, and bow. The colourful ceremonial aprons, called kesho-mawashi, that you see the wrestlers wearing cost about 400 000 to 500 000 yen each, so about 4-5000 Canadian dollars!
When the word "Japan" is spoken, certain mental images dance in one's head...geisha, chopsticks, perhaps a mugful of steaming green tea, and without doubt, a sumo wrestler!

Sumo is Japan's national sport, and 6 major tournaments are held per year in the larger Japanese cities. There is an annual tournament held in Osaka every March, and I was lucky enough to attend. One of my guide book's listed Sumo as one of the top 36 (why 36? I have no idea!) to see while in Japan, and that was all the convincing I needed!

Sumo wrestling is more about the ambiance and ritual, than the actual wrestling bout itself. It's not difficult to see how much sumo differs from western style wrestling. The sumo match takes place in the dohyo, which is a circular ring made from a special type of clay, and covered in sand. Over the ring is a roof which is similar to that of the roof of a shrine. Sumo's origins are placed in religion, as it is thought that the gods used to wrestle too.

Before the actual match begins, the wrestlers rinse their mouths out with water, and also scatter salt into
A Bird's Eyeview of the Osaka Prefectural GymnasiumA Bird's Eyeview of the Osaka Prefectural GymnasiumA Bird's Eyeview of the Osaka Prefectural Gymnasium

This is a look at the dohyo (the wrestling circle) and the shinto shrine-like roof that hangs above it. The seats closest to the dohyo are the most expensive, and consist of pillows that you sit on. We had the "nose bleed" seats, and were situated pretty high up. However, we were able to freely walk around and take pictures, and still had a pretty good view of the action!
the ring to purify it. They then raise their arms to the side and stamp their feet. They squat and face each other, staring one another down, and break the stance to return to their respective "corners" (as really, there isn't a corner in a circle, is there?!). This pattern repeats a couple of times until the wrestlers feel "psychologically ready" to fight, or the 4-minute time limit is reached. Usually the fight itself lasts at most 30 seconds, and is ended as soon as someone touches the ground with a body part other than his feet, or is outside of the dohyo.

We also had fun staking out the wrestlers "behind the scenes" near their changing areas, and as they walked back and forth to the ring area. However, these men showed nothing but pure concentration! Not a smile could be broken...although luckily for me, it is improper for a sumo wrestler to convey his emotions, as a flash went off in one of the heavy weight's faces at a proximity a bit too close for comfort a few times (all in the name of a "true Japan" photographic opportunity!)

I am glad that I got to
The MatchThe MatchThe Match

Sumo is more about the gradual build-up, and one final, intense burst of action. Here, the wrestlers are seen in the "sonkyo" position, toeing the mark.
partake in being a spectator at this sumo tournament. As my friend Heather said, "although we've been in Japan for quite a while now, today I feel like I'm really in Japan!" All we need are a few geisha, and to drink our green tea with chopsticks, and the Japanese experience will be complete!

We also got to spend the evening in Osaka after the tournament. I have been to Osaka three times now, and although it can be a bit overwhelming due to the shear number of people there, I've really grown to appreciate its energy and liveliness. There's something really cool about it! The last 2 times I visited, I wanted to go to the Umeda Sky building but never got around to it. This time, Alexis and I made it a priority! It is considered to be one of Osaka's most interesting examples of modern architecture, and is said to look like a space-age version of Paris's "Arc de Triomphe." Some people of Osaka really like it, and others think it's an eyesore. In a city that is so lively and energetic as Osaka is, I think it blends in quite well!

The building features 2 observation levels, one indoor and one outdoor. They both offered a pretty view of the Osaka night skyline.

On Sunday, we went to Universal Studios Japan. For faithful readers, you will know this was my second trip to USJ. I went with a group, and this was part of the "tour package." I am glad that I went another time though, as this time it was a Sunday, during the middle of Spring Break, and it was complete mayhem! We waited 3 hours in line to get on the Back to the Future ride, and spent the rest of the day wandering around the park. Note: never go to USJ during any type of school holiday!

Overall, sumo, Osaka, and USJ...can't get much more of a "Japanese" weekend than that😉





Additional photos below
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Another Staredown...Another Staredown...
Another Staredown...

All of this is only allowed to go on for 4 minutes in the highest ranks, and then the wrestlers must fight. In the lower ranks, the fighting must start right away.
Returning to their respective corners...Returning to their respective corners...
Returning to their respective corners...

Time for a water break, and perhaps some salt throwing to purify the ring.
Finally!Finally!
Finally!

The actual fight, which at most usually lasts 30 seconds. It's interesting to note that the one sumo wrestler in this match is a foreigner. Some of the top ranked sumo wrestlers, including the highest ranked, the yokuzuna, hail from other countries besides Japan (Mongolia, the US-Hawaii, Bulgaria). This has made sumo unpopular with many Japanese people. However, the sumo organization finds itself in a bind, as many Japanese men are not willing to engage in the intensive regime it takes to become a sumo wrestler.
Ringside AdvertisingRingside Advertising
Ringside Advertising

As the higher ranks begin fighting, the advertising increases. I'm not going to lie, I have a special spot in my heart for "Kitty chan" or "Hello Kitty" as she is known world-wide.
Excuse me, Mr. Sumo...Excuse me, Mr. Sumo...
Excuse me, Mr. Sumo...

...just one picture, please! Me, playing paparazzi.
The Closest I GotThe Closest I Got
The Closest I Got

This is Asashoryu, the yokuzuna, or sumo "top gun," if you will. He hails from Mongolia, and is known to display unorthodox sumo behaviour, and show anger or upset when he loses a match. Perhaps it's good that this is the only Asashoryu that I ran into that day, as he did end up losing his match!
Umeda Sky BuildingUmeda Sky Building
Umeda Sky Building

Looking down onto the glass-encased escalator that takes you up to the observation decks of the Umeda Sky Building
Bright Lights, Big CityBright Lights, Big City
Bright Lights, Big City

A night time view of (part of) Osaka
The Politeness that is JapanThe Politeness that is Japan
The Politeness that is Japan

At the train station, a poster apologizing for construction in progress. Kawaii! (Cute!)


14th April 2006

... hey
ok.. how would you drink green tea with chopsticks?
14th April 2006

Green tea and chopsticks
It's a joke Dob and I have about "real Japan"...you haven't fully lived in Japan until you can drink tea with chopsticks and geisha fall from the sky!

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