Made it! Tuc Tuc, Lake Toba - Finally a bit of relaxation and Birthday celebrations


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Asia » Indonesia » Sumatra » Lake Toba
August 8th 2011
Published: August 8th 2011
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Its funny how someone tells you about somewhere and within a few days you find yourself heading there! Tuc Tuc was a must see place recommended by Dave Fox and within a few days of hearing about it we were on an over night bus from Singapore to Butterworth in Penang (Malaysia) with the intention of getting a ferry over to Medan (Sumatra)!

Should have done a bit more research as when we got to Penang after an 11 hour bus ride and a 30 minute ferry crossing we realised we were 13 months too late for the ferry to Sumatra which no longer operated due to either immigration issues, money issues or both!

Travelling goes that way sometimes and so we thought we'd check out Penang before getting a plane over to Medan - seemed like to easiest and cheapest way!

Have been trying to avoid planes, preferring the cheaper, slower and local transport - you get to see so much more but this was unavoidable and in comparison to our previous travels was strange to arrive in Medan 45 minutes after taking off from Penang.

Visa's sorted we changed over our remaining Malaysian money and headed out! Immediately you are asked if you want a taxi, everyone wanted you to give them your money but we had done a bit of research and knew the yellow 64 mini van bus just a short walk from the airport was the cheapest way. For 5,000 Rp we made it to the bus terminal and caught the local bus to Parapet for 22,000 Rp.

We were surprised to hear that not many westerners take the local bus, preferring to travel in private air-conditioned Mercedes Benz vans but in my opinion they are totally missing out.

The bus is a mental 4 hour journey, there is no air-con and more people than seats are on it, but we chatted to some of the locals who were as interested in finding out about us as we were of them. Clove cigarette smoke filled the tiny bit of space that was left on the bus and every now and again the bus would stop to let people off and more on in a smoothly operated fashion. Shouts of Yo! would signal to the driver he was good to continue and he would set off again driving relentlessly navigating his way through the packed streets with perfect precision!

We stopped briefly at a local bus depot and the bus was instantly filled with women and children wanting you to buy their water and snacks!

One more stop for some fuel and then it was pretty much non stop to Parapat. The views along the way took your mind off the heat as you watched from your sweaty, slightly uncomfortable seat you were taken though village after village. The narrow roads close to the edge allowed you to look down over the surrounding dense rainforrest and monkeys lined the streets watching as you went by like people waiting for a bus!

When we arrived at the harbour at Parapat it was a shame to be getting off, we thanked the driver and the locals for their singing and help and stretched our legs before grabbing our rucksacks and heading down to the harbour!

Everyone knew you were going to Tuc Tuc and showed you albums of places to stay, but we already had somewhere in mind "Liberta" and so kindly refused their offers!

After only a short wait the ferry took us to Tuc Tuc and 2 days, 2 boats, 1 plane ride and much sweating since leaving Singapore we finally arrived at Tuc Tuc, Lake Toba!

We managed to get a room in Liberta for 30,000 it was only a basic room but it was good enough! We moved the next day to a Batak house for 60,000. Mr Moon the owner of Liberta is a nice guy and the accommodation is excellent one of the best rates in the island.

We dumped our bags and ventured out and stumbled across what is still now (after a week here) my favorite restaurant in Tuc Tuc - Hita's! You have to try this place her Mee Goreng, Bratkartoffeln mit Eii and scrambled egg on Chapatti are out of this world - not to mention the cheapest on the island!

Hita cooks everything from scratch, so there can be a bit of a wait but it is totally worth it. She speaks really good self taught English and we both helped each other to learn our own languages.

There is loads to do here, if you want to. But also a laid back chilled out atmosphere if you just want to read a book, play cards, swim in the lake or eat & drink.

We hired a motorbike via Posman (a guide on the island) for pretty cheap, not that you can't hire a bike yourself. But, Posman came recommend highly and we were glad in the end for doing it with him rather than on our own!

We drove from Tuc Tuc, through Aramatta, through neighboring villages to Pangururan and check out the Wednesday markets which were amazing! They sold everything from food, veg, spices, clothes, electrical and household artifacts etc..... The market was packed with people trying to get a bargain, it was gridlock traffic and navigating through the hustle & bustle on the bike was scary but totally amazing!

Being given the wrong directions from a local police office got us a police escort to the road up to the road leading to the Hot Springs - our next destination.

The sulpher smell hits you before you get to the hot springs and after initally taking the wrong road we found the Hot Springs, which were a bit of a disappointment to be honest. Rather than the idealic natural hot springs we had imagined it was a swimming pool set on the mountain filled by tonnes of pipes from the hot springs. Still we had a bath all the same!

We met a couple from a village just outside of Medan who were on holiday and after a few photos with them they asked if we could come and meet their friend. Slightly worried the couple were a bit too keen we cautiously went to meet their friend who was actually turned out to be a bus load of friends all who wanted their photographs taken with us and them some more.

Feeling like complete celebrities and after countless photos we had to head back before dark. Shame really as it would have been nice to have spent some time with them.

The ride back gave us another opportunity to look at the beautiful views as we darted along the road carved in to the mountain. The cows were all being led by a rope to a different field and chickens flapped freely across the villages.

Back just before nightfall, we had a cup of tea with Posman and Mama before returning to Hitas for some much need food. Good we found this place as we were on a total budget being as money was running out and Visa is not accepted on Samosir. Trip to Parapat needed to get some cash out. Sadly would be a chore that needed to be done on the morning of James Birthday!

James birthday started pretty dull with a money run to Parapat, but on returning to Tuc Tuc we went to a Batck wedding we were invited to and felt privileged to be part of the proceedings.

We got there just in time for the giving of gifts and an hour in the queue of guest waiting in line to give their shawl/present was still never ending. We watched intrigued by the throwing of rice and little dance each person preformed in front of the bride and groom.

We left as the queue was still going and went to grab some food returning later for a bit of dance.

What a way to spend your birthday!

Where to next we do not know, trying to figure it out now but have had an amazing stay in Tuc Tuc.

We've seen traditional Batak Dance and Folk band at Bagus Bay, seen island community and spirit, sampled jungle juice and local dishes and had chance to relax. All that's left to do before we leave is a swim in the lake! x

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