“Flamingos on the rock…”

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We all remember summer camps when we were kids right? They were full of fun days at the beach, swimming, playing and having fun. They got even better when we were teenagers as we could party, drink and smoke which was like breaking bad in a way. However the most important element of the memories we have from those days is people. People we had never met before and had nothing to do with initially but could not imagine better holidays without them at the end of the term. Summer friends we swore to be in touch with forever and holiday romances we thought were going to last. Now we know that it was the place that made us friends and that we share the memories of. I never thought 30-year old us could feel that way again….somewhere in Indonesia where mobile and internet connections do not exist and where all it is to do there is to spend time with people ;-)

Togean Islands are not easy to get to but we were hoping that this fact would also mean fewer tourists. It was exactly middle of holiday season so there seemed to be loads of holiday makers everywhere. From Rantepao we had to travel to Poso (14h and had to overnight) and then continue to Ampana (5h, where again we had to overnight) where we would take a ferry to Paradise Resort on Kadidiri Island. At least that was our initial plan. At that point we already had a group of 8 people (2 Dutch, 2 Spanish, 1 English, 1 Italian and us) and we were weighing our options of where to go. John (UK) really wanted to go to Bomba and we thought why the hell not - we had time. Then Sarah and Bas from Netherlands joined us in this idea and we had enough people to charter a small boat. Of course employees of Oasis Hotel were not amused and tried to convince us to go to Kadidiri straight away (Paradise resort is under the same ownership) by saying that Bomba is fully booked but we decided to take a risk anyway - part of the adventure right?

The most fabulous retreat for travelers we could ever imagine!!!

We arrived in Bomba and were extremely lucky to get space for 5 of us in Poyalisa Resort which is located on the small, private islet very close to Bomba village. John, Sara and Bas had to share a bungalow and we got a kitchen room but we did not care – this place was stunning and we really wanted to stay. Later on we found out that there was actually quite a long waiting list for a room so we could not have been luckier. Even though there is another expensive resort just on the other side of the water, people prefer to queue to stay in Poyalisa - sleeping in the village or even in the restaurant. Why? The reason is the atmosphere of this place and the kind of people Poyalisa attracts. We have never been to a better place – honestly!!!

It is not a place with perfect bungalows (which are still nice but not luxurious), expensive food, recliners on the beach etc. But they have incredible management, very helpful staff and very social feel. Everybody sits together, eats together and takes daily trips together – there is constant laughing and joking when Island Retreat opposite is like a ghost city. Snorkeling trips cost only 25,000/2,5$ for a whole day with lunch included (for real – not kidding) and there was not a single day that we could not go. However people were the key to this special atmosphere. The kind of people Poyalisa attracts don’t care about fancy conditions, lavish cuisine and western toilets but fun and socializing. Food was fabulous by the way and portions were so generous that we were never hungry (btw. Kadidiri has quite opposite reputation between food lovers). We had a very diverse group of Germans, Dutch, French, Spanish, Greeks and even one Colombian. When we arrived Carlos was near the 50-day mark and planned to stay longer. He is a very colorful personality with contagious sense of humor and was entertaining us every day.

Apparently some French girls questioned his long stay at – what they called - the rock. The islet is a rock formation connected by small and beautiful sandbar so they were not far from the truth but it was still funny. It was also hilarious how everybody picked up ‘the rock’ name for Poyalisa and joked about it instantly. Interestingly enough there were a lot of teachers between us who did not really look like teachers (if there is a way to tell). Then the story was created between us about people pretending to be teachers hiding their own professions and really working as secret agents. It was hilarious how this game evolved within 5 days of our stay and we all got super secret roles in this charade (it reminded a game called Mafia I believe) with John aka ‘Johnny English’ leading a way and Greek couple – Vasilij and Natasha as Russian Spies being infiltrated. It was amazing how we all had the same sense of humor and we all participated.

We spent majority of time together, took trips together and we got so close to each other - like teenagers at the summer camp feeling sorry about the fact that we all had to part in a few days. Vasilij organized a trip to Una-Una Volcano Island (3h one way by boat) which is special because not many people visit it. We loved the experience and the place had fantastic reef for snorkeling (with a completely new coral as it erupted in mid 90ties). We were exhausted at the end of a day and we were really glad we made it back as it was windy (therefore bumpy) and our captain was going way too fast through the darkness as for our liking. We made it as a group of 15 though and it was just so incredible to feel like we were traveling with a bunch of friends we have known for years.

I guess it is not for everybody

Poyalisa was so peaceful, atmospheric and pleasurable that when one day some rude tourists arrived and started to swear and call the owner names (because there was no room available and someone told them otherwise) we were shocked to the core. As if we had spent all of our lives without experiencing something like that. We instantly knew these people will not be welcomed there and would leave soon. The owner was not dealing with these kinds of situations very well so we all had to step up and help. We quickly counted who was leaving and which bungalows were available and were able to advise ‘rude’ people of the situation. They calmed down and started to thank us but the atmosphere was spoiled for them anyway. We met them 2 days later on another island (luckily it was full again) as they did not get the charm of Poyalisa and all they did was complain. As I mentioned…only certain people are attracted to this place ;-)

We all left at the same day except for Carlos (obviously wanted to break the 60 day record) and John who decided to stay longer. Carlos was saying good bye to all of his ‘flamingo’ friends (expression used in South America to describe white people whit red tan apparently) who were staying with him on the rock….. As for beauty of this place, see the photos yourself but bear in mind that they don’t give this place justice anyway!



Additional Note about Bomba:


• There is a public boat going to Bomba every other day ei. Sunday, Tuesday etc for 40,000R/4$/6h … but you can hire a boat for around 500,000/50$/3h if you have a group of 5 (very small boat so six won’t do)
• Poyalisa is more of a travelers’ place with prices ranging from 100,000R/10$ per person including 4 meals, coffee, tea, water (price for a kitchen room, room in a village or mattress in the restaurant) to 175,000-200,000r per person in bungalows. Island Retreat on the opposite side charges around 35$ plus 10%!t(MISSING)ax but snorkeling is insanely expensive at 175,000R per person (Poyalisa 25,000R). There is a very unpleasant feel about the way Island Retreat views Poyalisa and the owner is really rude about it. They are simply jealous and cannot understand why Poyalisa is so successful. Not the kind of place we would ever want to stay in.
• Poyalisa is always full during summer but they will make a space for you to wait for a bungalow if you are not fussy … like mattress in a restaurant (they make it really beautifully on tables and under mosquito net). In our opinion it is worth a wait;-)

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Photos

so beautiful
and just for the 20 or so people who stay at the islet

on the way to the reef
snorkeling trip

beach at Una Una
such stunning place;-) wish we could have camped there...

Poyalisa's beach
private so no crowds;-)

sunset in Poyalisa
our tan got pretty good at this point;-)

John on the way to Una Una
spy in disguise...

our boat at Una Una
with a dark volcanic sand

Togean reef
they number them from 1-5, this was 3 I think;-)

Flamingos and Carlos for the last time;-)
we sure meet again;-)

Comments

[taracloud]

Incredible journey!
I love how you two find the most beautiful, friendliest spots. I'm also amazed at the travel time it takes to find these remote places, but how worth it, it is in the end. Your travels really are unique. i love your blogs (your life, too).

[Beata and Tomek]

Thank you so much;-)
really appreciate your comment Tara!!!! we cherish the memories of such places like expensive jewelry in a bank deposit box hahha All of those places we either found through travelers we met (Travelblogers included) or randomly read about them in some paper/book/magazine etc. We discovered that Lonely Planet is just for directions not for place choices anymore...I suppose this is how it used to be when people traveled without internet and guidebooks right? There is more to come so stay tuned;-) cheers, B&T

[D MJ Binkley]

Beach lovers abound
You have found some of the most amazing beaches around the world. Thanks for your hard work and bringing them to our attention.