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Published: June 17th 2011
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Irwan's favourite food is Ayam Soto
chicken soup with rice, noodles and chilli pepper Begin with a picture, a view taken from above scattered fluffy clouds of tropical islands, swaying palms, small fishing villages, distant volcano peaks, fly closer, zoom in, note the colourful patterns of traditional dress, the scarcity of traffic and other modernities. This picture suits the escapist dreams of westerners who'd love to get away to an island paradise. Now look closer, witness the deforestation, the overfishing, the human made waste leeching into the rivers, the devastation of natural disasters on overpopulated lands, the effects of a policy known as transmigrasi, and the increasing density of Java and the island's struggle to provide. This is a consequence of development and the dream to live like Westerners.
In the heart of this struggle lies Surabaya which unless you've been to Indonesia you've probably never heard of. While the tourist trail explores the cultural attributes of Yogyakarta, the majesty of Mount Bromo and the hedonism of Bali, it fails to appreciate what Surabaya has to offer, inside and outside the city, whether temples, parks, beaches, volcanoes, fishing villages, tombs, safari parks, little of the province's tourism focuses on the provincial capital itself. Few visitors will appreciate its historic relevancy.
Imagine now a
family vehicle
not an uncommon sight in Surabaya traffic - and yes, forever disconcerting to see children without helmets - but that'd cost another week's wages and besides children grow so fast picture of a sprawling city of some 7 million, a distant cluster of highrises surrounded by a patchwork of neighbourhoods of various income levels from the high imperial gates of affluent ethnic Chinese to unlit kampungs made of scrap wood. Imagine a third of its habitants in pairs or entire families aboard motorbikes weaving through a maze of roads, pot holes, markets, an endless pattern of point As to point Bs. Surabaya is an important place to Indonesians, commercially, culturally and historically. I chose Surabaya inspite of its claim as the hottest city in the archipeligo because while it offers western comforts similar only to Jakarta, like a sunday brunch at the Shangri-la, reputable service at the International Hospital, numerous malls with cookie cutter cafes, bakeries, state of the art fitness centres, Surabaya's pollution and traffic aren't nearly as problematic as the nation's capital's. And, I was encouraged before signing my contract, Bali's a quick flight away.
But what's there to do in Surabaya? This is a challenge to both long time residents and new expats, the one rarely mixing with the other, whether for economic, linguistic or racial reasons, but in such a densely populated city, often finding
Makam Belanda Peneleh
Peneleh Dutch Cemetery themselves sharing the same spaces, especially in the few trendy bars and clubs, cafes or shops, few if any listed in guidebooks. Although I've never corresponded with him, I recommend searching out blogs by
Tim Hannigan, a former (?) writer for the Java Post, who has among his many travels covered the old town, china town and the infamous red light district. Each article is imbued with a strong sense of what it means to experience "the real Indonesia", typically by its chance encounters with locals. Surabaya is full of characters. For amazing pics of the old town, hopefully enough to inspire some of you to visit, search on www.pbase.com for abmdsudi's 'In the Old Streets of Surabaya' series.
Despite having spent less time in Indonesia and never acquiring quite as strong a use of the language as Hannigan - or as abmdsudi, who's a native of Singapore, I still managed to find a number of stories. In July 2008 when I first arrived, Surabaya was preparing to celebrate its 650th anniversary, and a cultural festival of music and dance was offered for free in a park near City Hall. It was on this occasion I learned of Surabaya's
Makam Belanda Peneleh
Peneleh Dutch Cemetery importance to Indonesians, as the
City of Heroes. In the year following, either studying the road atlas or out lost in the crazy ebb and flow of traffic, I discovered some of the many statues and monuments, cemeteries, museums, other attractions and dozens of street names that attest to its moniker.
City of Heroes purportedly refers to Surabaya's Battle for Independence in late 1945 when having defeated the Japanese, the Dutch with aid of Britain had thought to regain control. Once the centre of colonial Soeraboeya, today one of the city's few well looked after thoroughfares, and typically the first and only place backpackers ever get to, stretching from the train station to the city's largest shopping mall, passing the old Governer's House, among other white washed historic facades,
Jalan Pemuda, is named for the
youth who fought back for the city's - and the country's - independence. Not far from Jl Pemuda stands a giant white obelisque, the War Monument, further attesting to the Battle of Surabaya's decisive role in the nation's independence. Intersecting with Pemuda,
Jalan General Sudirman cutting through the heart of downtown leads to a nearby larger than life monument to the military commander honouring his
Makam Belanda Peneleh
Peneleh Dutch Cemetery accomplishments during the fight for independence.
The city abounds with the names of heroes recollecting bygone eras apart from the War of Independence.
Jalan Diponegoro, a tree lined boulevard stretching from the zoo to the edge of the Red Light District, is named for a rebellious Javanese Prince from the early nineteenth century who, denied royal authority by the Dutch, led a 'jihad' against non-muslims encroaching on the privileged power of Javanese Sultans.
Jalan Ahmad Yani, the main thoroughfare connecting downtown with the airport and to all points south is named for the commander of the army who was killed along with two other Generals in a coup in '65 which led to the purging of the Communist Party, the killing of upwards of a half million across Java and Bali, the end of Sukarno's rule and the inauguration of Suharto's 'New Order.'
Makam Belanda Peneleh, the old Dutch cemetery stands forgotten in a quiet neighborhood. The graves have been plundered, a dark and spooky nothingness peers from gaping holes. Goats graze, children fly kites, homeless erect homes under the tin roofed tombs and neighbors tend to a few elaborate pigeon coops towering above the 18th century headstones.
Grave Marker, Resident of Surabaya
Peneleh Dutch Cemetery - Francois 17xx-1840 Romantic, educational, adventurous and the perfect site for a zombie movie.
Far across town to one edge of
Makam Kembang Kuning, Yellow Flower cemetery, within a tall latched gate lies a perfectly maintained Dutch War cemetery, one of three in Indonesia funded by the Dutch government. Only those with ancestors burried here may enter so when I'm questioned by the guard, I respond, "mungkin," maybe, I look to my friend, "it's quite large."
http://www.pbase.com/abmdsudi/in_the_streets_of_old_surabaya
http://www.thejakartapost.com/news/2007/12/22/surabaya-dusk-%!E(MISSING)2%98til-dawn.html
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