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Published: July 11th 2013
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This was my second time in Ubud, Bali within a month (I was in Bali two weeks earlier for a conference) and this time, I intended to attend the Pelebon or Royal Family Cremation, which happened on the 18th of August, 2011.
I had learned about this event from my cyclist guide and looked forward to the event as I had never witnessed Balinese Cremation ("Ngaben"), let alone Pelebon (the Royal Cremation). The cremation was for Anak Agung Niang Rai or the mother or Cokorda Oka Ardana Sukawati, Gianyar Regency Head and wife of the late of King of Ubud. According to its website, she was born in Bungbungan village, Klungkung around 1930 and married the King in 1955.
It was during fasting month, so I had to find excuses to be in Bali for this event as I would not have the opportunity to witness this often. Once I had arrived in Bali, I arranged a car rental with a driver for the next day which took me to Ubud.
When I arrived around noon at Ubud, the main road was closed and covered with people - both locals and tourists. The VIP invites, dressing up in
Balinese costumes, were seated along with the family members under the Bale facing the main road of Ubud (later on I learned that one of my friends were one of the invitees and said I could have been there with him).
I had no idea what got into me but I managed to get my way around and to be among the Krama (the men who moved the Bade and Bull sarcophagus). They, dressed in black with balinese hat and sarong, didn't seem to mind when I took their photographs either; they must have thought I was a reporter from some local magazines.
I didn't have to wait long for the ceremony to start when it started with the parade of women with offerings on their head, followed by the 9th storey high Bade and 7.5 meter Bull sarcophagus being moved by some 4500 krama in relay for about 1 km from Puri Agung temple. The preparation of Pelebon usually takes months and it costs a fortune too (I learned that insurance is doing well in Bali simply because it enabled the family to cover for the cremation cost). Each move brought a gasp from the audience as
each krama had to move at the same time, while the Priest remained still on top of the bade along with a few family members. There were thousands of people covering all areas along Ubud's main road. People were on top of cars, on the roof and on every possible higher flat area along the main road.
The experience was exhilarating and overwhelming. I had no idea whether it was the heat, the fast movement of the Bade and Bull or the sea of people that I started feeling dizzy and nausea in the middle of it. I was alone and was worried about my camera and my wallet; thankfully, another couple from Surabaya realised how sick I was as I started to knee against the walled fence in front of Ubud market. The couple gave me water and took me inside the market to one of the stalls.
The moment I reached the stall, I immediately laid down on the floor while the shop owner was panic not allowing me to do so (she said it was dirty). I was so weak and dizzy. She made coffee for me and waved her fan to give fresh air.
After having a sip or two coffee, I felt much better and was able to sit and thank her for helping me (she refused to be given a small token of money for my appreciation - this showed how generous and kind hearted the Balinese people were). Only then I realized that I had not had my lunch! I decided to take a long lunch break before heading back to the ceremony in the afternoon (by the time I came back, the Bade and Bull sarcophagus had reached the cemetery area).
Thousands of people remained patient in waiting for the Bull sarcophagus to be burned before it got dark around 5:30pm after the Priest and family members completed their prayers. When the Bull finally got burned, I didn't have the heart to see it closely. All I knew they had to use a large hose to spray the fire towards the Bull sarcophagus. I have never been in a cremation before - royal family or not - I didn't feel good leaving the area. I had to completely shower and wash my hair the moment I reached my hotel. The sight of the burning sarcophagus didn't leave my mind
till about a few days later. I didn't regret that I attended it but if you ask me if I'd attend another Pelebon, my answer was probably 'once in a life time is sufficient for me'.
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