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Published: December 13th 2011
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Dancing Sloth Bear
Dancing Bears are kept on the end of a 4ft rope all there lives. There muzzle is pierced and their K9 teeth are knocked out without anesthetic. In the last couple of days we have had the opportunity to see one of the most incredible programs (Probably spelt wrong) that we have ever seen. The program was an animal welfare program focussed on saving Sloth Bears and it also extended it's facilities to help other local wildlife where it could.
The project was born out of local recognition that change was needed. The most interesting thing is that this was driven locally and without western influence. There were two factors in particular that impressed us. First the movement addressed the problem not by protesting but by providing a solution to the problem and a catalyst to change.
Second the movement looked beneath the problem which was actually only the outcome to the inputs or real problem and implemented actions to facilitate sustanable change as opossed to fighting a problem.
The problem was the poaching of sloth bears for parts in traditional chinese medicine and cubs which were turned into dancing bears where they faced horific and cruel lives. We visited a sanctuary which had 270 bears living in a simulated wild environment (Because of the treatment of these bears they can never be returned to
Sloth Bear
Happy sloth bear! the wild). The first bear was taken into care in 2002.
So how does the sanctuary provide a solution. Firstly they did not simply condem a practise. An incredible sanctuary has been buil on 15 acres that houses the beers in simulated wild environments once they are taken into custody. Secondly the movement is not attempting to work against the practice rather provide an alternative. If a bear owner is prepared to surrender his bear and sign an agreement never to use wildlife commercially again he is given a cheque for 15000 rupees - $300 US which is enough to help the owner establish an alternative income source for example by setting up a small shop or buying a second hand rickshaw.
This is the bit that blew us away. If the owner agrees to the terms of the agreement the sanctuary will pay for the school education and uniforms of their children plus retrain there wives in their choice of a small selection of trades for example sewing helping to support not only sustainable change away from animal cruelty but creating an economically stronger community.
I'm not sure words do justice to what we actually saw.
Agra Fort
Outside Agra Fort Unfortunately we were not allowed to take any photos within the enclosure so we cannot even share the incredible images of the bears.
Moving right along we have been picked up by our new car and driver, Mr Singh. He's awesome, knows his way around the state like the back of his hand and is a quazzi guide pointing out and explaining things we would have otherwise missed.
We have seen three forts in three days. All incredbile in their own right. What is neat is with a guide we have a lot more context of how these all fit together. We visited Agra Fort which was built over 90 years by four generations, Fatephur Sikri which was built in 8 years by a guy with three wives (One Christian, one Hindu and one Muslim) plus 32 conqubine(Russell can't even deal with one yet so go figure how this guy managed). And Ranthambore Fort which was used as a hunting lodge until 1970, a curious 15 years after the region was turned into a wildlife sanctuary. The fort was our favourite and was also free surprisingly. It hadn't been maintained and it was the perfect state of being
Fatephur Sikri
Capital was built and then abandoned as a result of water droughts. Palace is still amazing! ruined enough to be exciting and not enough to be nothing to see. It was set on the site of a hill and had stunning on-obstructed views over the national park.
We also embarked on a tiger safari and while we didn't spot any tigers the wildlife was amazing and the opportunity to be in the national park away from the city, smog and noise was incredible.
Next stop Jaipur - the pink city.
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