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Published: January 12th 2009
by anna and david We started our tour of northern India and it's cities with a couple of nights and a day in
Mumbai, a city we both loved. Whether it was not having a list of sites to tick off, or whether it was just the great vibe of the place, Mumbai rocks. Having loved it so much made us even sadder when a week later it was attacked.
However, when we were there, it was simply a great place to be. Well, it was once we were safely at our hotel after a crazy taxi ride where we weren't sure if we were about to die at the hands of some of the city's famous mafia goons (there was another guy who got in the cab in addition to the cabbie) or just by crashing into another vehicle as we passed through red lights at high speed. Absolutely terrifying.
This was the most scared I've been all trip. The driver was a psycho, chewing and spitting out paan at high speed, and driving like a maniac. His mate wasn't much better either. As it turns out they got us there safely and we learnt later there is 
This sums up Mumbai for me
This sums up Mumbai for meoften a second person in the car to look after the driver. After a bit of a dispute with them over the fare, aided by our hotel manager, we made it into town. It didn't look like much from the outside but the hotel looked after us well for the whole stay.
We spent a great day the next day with a lot of walking around the city, checking out the main thoroughfares, the Gateway of India, and the central park full of people playing cricket. We had the best, and possibly cheapest, meal we had in all of India at Baghdadi, a packed, local restaurant behind the Taj Mahal hotel. We tried the chicken fry on the recommendation of a guy we shared a booth with, and discovered kadai paneer, our new fave Indian dish. Not sure where it's been all our lives? Later in the day we got up a bit closer and more personal with some of the shanty areas of the city as we got lost, moving deeper and deeper into territory full of beggars, blue tarps and foul smells. Finally, we finished off the day with a Bombay (sapphire and tonic that is) in
Bombay (Mumbai's former colonial name), in the historic, now possibly more so, Harbourview bar at the Taj Mahal hotel. We enjoyed our piece of luxury (it cost A$40 for two drinks, nothing on the room prices!), before heading back to our affordable hotel.
It was a really great day in Mumbai walking around the city, watching some local cricket and included seeing the new Bond movie, but the kadai was the business. We will be dreaming about that for some time.
From Mumbai we flew north-east to
Varanasi, a town on the river Ganges and centre of religious significance for Hindus. For me, it was the most crazy, crowded, colourful place I have been, and likely will go. The sheer number of people reached new heights and making our way through the crowd of Hindu and Buddhist pilgrims (there is an important Buddhist site nearby), curious tourists and local shamans, beggars and salesmen, was quite intimidating. We witnessed the evening prayers the night we arrived, then woke early to witness the dawn activity on the banks of the river. And activity there is. From people bathing, to young Brahmin priests doing yoga, to families burning their dead, whatever your
religious or spiritual beliefs, it was quite an unearthly experience.
I concur entirely. The colour and movement in Varanasi is like nowhere else, especially that first evening we spent there. Cruising on the Ganges at dawn was brilliant-my highlight were the guys who gather at the dawn with all the regular bathers to laugh out loud.
We moved on from Varanasi via overnight train, with the help of an amazing 'cooli' (porter) who didn't hesitate in putting both our bags (all 55kg of them) on his head and heading up a couple of flights of stairs. We had a mid-night trip, enjoying a vegemite and crackers picnic before getting off near
Agra in the middle of the night.
We were both keen to experience the famous Indian railways and didn't regret it. After negotiating the extremely confusing internet booking engine we bought a couple of second class sleepers. We were actually waitlisted on a later train on first class but to this day I'm not sure how we would be notified if the seats became available. Despite it being quite an old train our bunk running along the windows, with bedding provided, served us well. Certainly more comfortable than Our Cooli at the train station
This guy lifted both our suitcases (about 55kg at the time), put them on his head, and walked straight up the stairs! the cattle class we saw down the back.
We had planned to see the Taj Mahal at dawn but our guide convinced us that it would be better at sunset. However, first we visited the other great Agra sites and shows of previous royal wealth: the baby Taj, a smaller decorative Muslim tomb, and the massive and impressive red fort. Both were well worth the visit. The things people build for themselves! ... or for everyone else to be impressed by, anyway.
The Taj Mahal, however, was by far the most impressive site. As I had been promised, it lived up to the hype. It is a stunning structure that is beautiful to just sit and look at as the light changes. It really does have an ethereal quality. We had a fantastic time, laughing while having crazy photos taken by our guide who fancied himself an amateur photographer. He was well experienced in the different poses and after a bit of an explanation of what was what, he took about 20 photos of us in all sorts of poses within about 20 minutes. It was a blast having them taken, and we ended up with a good
couple of shots to remind us of our visit to one of the new seven wonders of the world.
Even though I'd seen it before, it was a really enjoyable afternoon taking in the Taj and I was so pleased be able to show Anna such a special place.
Having seen the key sites of Agra, we got out as soon as possible, as the rest of it is pretty much a horrible place. On the way to Jaipur we stopped at Fatepuhr Sikri, a palace built by the grandfather of the maharaja who commissioned the Taj. Awesome for its mix of religious motives (Jewish, Christian, Muslim) throughout the place, not to mention the giant game board where the king used real people, OK real women, as playing pieces. Outrageous of course, but it would have been cool to see!
The highlight of
Jaipur, the pink city, was an elephant ride into the palace on the outskirts of town. We enjoyed it thoroughly, despite the very eager elephant (it's quite scary travelling fast near a sheer drop on the back of such a bit animal) and very shirty driver. The rest of Jaipur was a tour of the
Travelling in the style of kings
Riding on an elephant was good fun, although the driver was pretty aggessive science of old (did you know they have the largest sun dial in the world?!? Very accurate too apparently), and what seemed to be a revenue raising exercise for the still resident, but powerless, maharaja who charges a fortune to get into his palace grounds that are full of shops! However, in another shop nearby, we did learn that if you really don't want a wool rug, the prices can get really low before they decide you aren't buying! Maybe next time.
Our stay in Jaipur ended with a bit of stress as we were woken at 6:30am on the morning we were due to leave by the groom of the wedding we were attending, saying he understood if we didn't want to go. At that stage we didn't understand why we wouldn't, but we were soon to learn of the horrifying events unfolding in Mumbai. Not really knowing what else to do, we flew to
Delhi where we were due that day for a final day of city tours.
My phone wasn't working around that time so I don't know who texted me but thanks for your concerns and sorry for not being able to respond. Hopefully Wytch Riding through the alleys of Old Delhi
Well, we were passengers to a very hard working cyclist who called me spread the word that we were fine.
We are stoked we stayed. The wedding was a sensational experience, we were thrilled to be there for Manas (a mate we both know from LEK) and Neha, and their families made us feel like royalty. There was, naturally, some concern about a bunch of foreigners staying in big hotels around the city, so Manas' dad arranged for us all to stay in an unmarked apartment in the suburbs. It was awesome, as it meant we all had meals at the apartment together, got ready and left for events together, etc. Not least, the sensational service by the team at the apartments who even drove interstate to buy us beer when we couldn't get hold of any the day before the elections (they ban alcohol sales the day before and of an election here apparently. Not sure why given they seem to be fairly corrupt anyway, as far as I can gather, but I guess it's the thought that counts). A big thanks to Manas' family for their generous hospitality and care!
The move to the apartment really made the weekend. We had Phil arrive from London, Guy and family, Michelle and Mark nearby and got to meet all of Manas' mates over more than a few Godfather lagers.
When we first hit Delhi, we decided that with a few hours between then and the Mumbai bombings, and with significantly heightened security, it was probably as safe a time as any to see the city, so we had a tour of the Gate of India, saw the president's grand quarters, visited the major mosque that overlooks old Delhi, saw the (other) Red Fort and paid homage at Gandhi's memorial. The highlight, however, was a cycle tour through the narrow alleys of the old town. It was awesome to see the life in the various specialised quarters selling stationery, gold, or sarees in bulk. It felt like a festival that happened every day.
The wedding was, of course, the highlight of our time in Delhi. The first event we made it to was the engagement where the bride and groom were smothered by gifts from their respective families, and almost crushed by the crowd of photographers competing to get the best shots. The whole thing seemed a little tangential for everyone involved however. Most people talked among themselves
as the various ceremonies took place. That was until Manas, the groom, performed a Bollywood style dance for his fiancé. It was first class. I wish I had got it on tape. Manas I want to see it again!! I am sure we all do! This set off hours of more dancing as most of Manas and Neha's immediate family performed a dance of some sort for the couple.
The Manas dance was special - I think Phil has it on video. Post this engagement event we headed back to the apartment and managed to make it through the night and watch a couple of overs of the test with a couple of Manas’ mates. As it turns out they knew Raj and Arj from my Newington days.
The wedding ceremony was like nothing I have been a part of before. It was all in reverse for a start: dancing, then dinner, photos, and finally the ceremony. All saree'd and turbaned up
(I was fortunate enough to be adorned with a Rajasthani turban of the groom's family), we danced and clapped our way along beside Manas on his horse, to arrive at the venue where Neha's relatives greeted us.
It was fantastic fun. Next came dinner, a massive buffet affair for the hundreds of people there, with sensational street style food and as well as curries, etc
and the best kulfis! (Indian ice creams). We ate while the bride and groom sat through hours of photos with everyone there. Finally, at quarter to three in the morning, the wedding ceremony began to align with an auspicious day and each of the bride and groom's horoscopes. After trying to stay awake (to our amusement, some of the family found this a bit too hard) and warm in the cold of the early morning hours, the couple were finally married at about 5 am. We had to run almost immediately after the equivalent of "I now pronounce you man and wife", in order to make our plane, but we were glad we could stay until the end.
Thanks Madness for the invite. It was a tremendously memorable experience. We were made feel so welcome throughout the extravaganza whether it be Manas’ sister, parents, Neha's grandfather or the uncle from Brisbane. Fantastic. Who'd have thought you could have so much fun at a dry wedding.
Absolutely sensational! Incredible India!
PS
A last breakfast in Madrid
In order to reconnect with our original ticket we had to spend a night in Madrid. We took the opportunity to visit Carlos for a boccadillo calamares for breakfast. We had to head back to
Madrid for a night to link up with our flights. It was sensational to be "back home" and able to call into our favourite haunt for breakfast before moving on.
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