Sandakphu - A trekkers dream

---

It was an eventful beginning to our trip with the tropical cyclone 'Fani' scheduled to hit the Orissa coastline on the day we were boarding our train, May 3rd. Although we are over 400 kms. away, the news continued to predict devastating consequences in Kolkata as well. On tenterhooks the entire day, we (my wife and myself) decided to take an early cab to the station to avoid getting caught in the storm. Waiting at the train station for a few hours, our train, Padatik Express departed as scheduled at 11 PM; thankfully not much excitement thereafter. Next morning, the train took forever to reach New Jalpaiguri (NJP) and when it did, it was no less than 4 hours late.

NJP to Dhotrey (8,500 ft.)

Fortunately however, we had a 4 WD car waiting for us to ferry us to the base location of our trek, a small village called Dhotrey about 17 km from Manebhanjan, the better known base for Sandakphu treks. The entire journey took about 4.5 hours with a break for a quick lunch on the way at Sarada Sweets in Dudhiya Bazar, 45 mins from NJP. It was pretty late, about 4.30 PM in the afternoon when we reached Dhotrey and the customary afternoon clouds were already blanketing the small village. Getting ourselves settled into the small homestay and sipping the welcome tea, we could barely hold our excitement, for the adventure that was ahead of us. We got some delicious vegetarian momo for snacks and a sumptuous spread roti, subzi and chicken curry for dinner. Our host, Gopal was himself a certified guide and gave us interesting pointers about the region in general, the village, the wildlife and the weather.

Dhotrey to Tumling (9,700 ft.)

The next day, our first day of the trek was a typical cloudy himalayan day. After having a good filling breakfast, we started off on our walk at about 8.30 AM with our guide for the next 6 days, Binod bhai. Binod is a local resident and has carried out several trips to Sandakphu over the years and like most people from this region is an extremely amiable and humble person always willing to help and listen to our never ending demands, sometimes feasible ones and not so at other times. A quick entry in a register at the starting point of our trek had to be made with minimal details. Taking a guide for the trek is mandatory (probably as a means to ensure a local livelihood) although routes are well marked for the most part and would not pose a real challenge to an experienced trekker. The day's plan was to walk to Tonglu for 5 km and then to Tumling for another 2 km where we would halt for the night. We stuck to the plan although the first day of the trek did require our body getting used to the altitude and the dragging ourselves up the winding trails. The first half of the trail goes through the village which ends with a large football ground and the local school following which we went through the woods and ascending gently at times and steep at others. After about 3 hours of walk with breathers and photo breaks, we reached an open grassy meadow (bugiyal) from where the small view tower of Tonglu is visible. It was encouraging to see that we were close to our immediate destination. We kept climbing for another 20 mins to finally reach the top where the road for Land Rovers passes through. This quaint little settlement called Tonglu has only one small house. Nevertheless, the view from the top is amazing. After clicking a few pics, sipping on some tea and then gulping down some wai wai noodles (the staple food on the entire trek route), re-energized we marched onto Tumling, our stay for the night. The rest of the way was a gentle undulating trail through meadows and rock formations. It was thoroughly enjoying and as we reached Tumling around 2 PM, clouds had taken over the mountain tops once again and windy conditions ensured we were walking through the clouds every now and then. The Shikhar Lodge in Tumling is pretty well recognized especially for the food they serve and it certainly lived up to the expectations. The trail here zig zags through India and Nepal at every corner. Majority of the lodges are on the Nepal side.

We were woken very early by our guide next morning on account of clear skies and good view. We got dressed in warm clothes as quickly as we could and stumbled out of our room with sleepy eyes. As we walked up about 30 meters upwards and turned a corner, we were stunned with the towering view ahead of us. It was the mighty Kangchenjunga (8586 m) and its adjoining range glowing in the rising sun in all its glory. We've viewed the same peak elsewhere but this was so close and so imposing that we kept gazing at its beauty for a very long time. After walking up to a view point we clicked several memorable pics of the 'Sleeping Buddha' view that can be imagined from the wide view the entire range offers from here. It was indeed an experience of a lifetime and we had to really push ourselves to walk away from the stunning view to get ready for the day ahead.

Tumling to Kalapokhri (10,200 ft.)

Our plan for the day was to enter the Singalila National Park after a 10 mins walk where we would need to get our permits done. Thereafter we would have to descend onto Gairibas for about 6 kms. following which we would proceed to Kalapokhri after a steep climb of 2 kms. from Gairibas. On the way we would pass a small village named Kaiyakata. Starting at about 7:45 AM, the initial part of the trail was through the jungle where we could hear a lot of birds chirping but could see very few of them. This is supposed to be prime red panda habitat as well and we were on the lookout for one but unfortunately we were not lucky enough. They are endangered and hence rare in any case. The winding road was initially mostly level and then started descending at a stead rate for the last half. After about 3 hours we reached Gairibas at the bottom of a valley. This is standard stop for trekkers and land rover passengers alike for some refreshments for ahead lies an arduous and steep climb of several kilometers. We did not rest for too long and started on one of the most difficult stretch on the entire route. Although the climb was labeled as 2 kms. it definitely felt much longer. After quite a few water breaks and rest stops, we finally reached the top quite exhausted. After descending for another 30 mins from the top we came on to Kaiyakata which is a small but pretty hamlet in the midst of the Himalayas. A much needed black tea and some snacks helped us get recharged for the long walk ahead. The last section until Kalapokhri was marked as 4 kms. but it seemed never ending. Although the steepness was not an issue, we seemed to be walking forever crossing one hill after another. When we finally reached Kalapokhri, it was about 3.30 PM and we were all but drained. There's a small lake - 'pokhri' at the entry which gives it the name and is considered holy like many a lakes in the Himalayas. Our stay for the night was at a small lodge at the end of the village. The rooms were basic but had attached bath and the food tasted great, probably because we were starving and would have lapped up any thing that was offered. It was a cold and windy night with visibility only a few feet when we had our dinner and went to bed.

Kalapokhri to Sandakphu (12,500 ft.)

The next day was our summit day if we can call it that. We were hoping for a clear weather and it was sunny the next morning but the haze and the clouds in the higher reaches stayed put. Nonetheless we started as planned around 8 AM from Kalapokhri. The first half of the trek upto Bikeybhanjan was up and down and pretty comfortable although the long stint from the previous day made for creaking joints. After a tea break and snacking on some chips and nuts, we started on the steep gradient towards Sandakphu. The driving route here is interlaced with trails and steps which can be used as shortcuts and some of them offer amazing views of the valley below as well. The game of light and shade kept playing out all along. Sometimes the chilly wind and dense clouds would create an eerie feeling while the beating sun would force you to abandon your jackets the next moment. The climb was quite steep, especially at the last stretch and when we saw the milestone showing Sandakphu - 0 km, we were overjoyed and relieved all at the same time. The feeling did not last for too long however as we soon noticed another half a kilometer of steep climb had to be negotiated before we can really reach the top and to our stay for the night. The milestones here can be confusing and misleading at times. The milestone was a perfect photo opp and we obliged ourselves with a few. When we finally reached the top at Sandakphu, the highest point in West Bengal, a sense of achievement and triumph did creep into us. It was a challenge and we did make it. Hotel Sunrise, our host for the night is one of the two best hotels on Sandakphu and we enjoyed the comfort here. Water and electricity is a problem here at the top. Water has to be ferried in tanks from a lower point and gensets are used in the evenings, so both are in limited supply. The views, albeit cloudy made up for most of the hard work and pains. It was about 2 PM by the time we had reached our hotel and was ready for a heavy lunch. The rest of the day went by resting and recovering. The hotel lobby cum dining area is a nice open space with large glass windows and it perched at an elevated point which makes it an excellent place to spend time socializing with other travelers and gazing at the mountains all around. You will never get tired of the views I suppose. A fire box lit in the evening for heat was the highlight for the entire time and several travelers from around the world gathered around it sharing their stories. We celebrated our summit with some brandy from the limited options the hotel had on offer. The day was most fulfilling and we thoroughly enjoyed every minute of it. There's nothing like the Himalayas in the entire world.

The next day was a resting and relaxing day at the highest point of West Bengal. After an extremely windy night we were really hoping for a clear morning but like most days in summer, the morning was a blanket of clouds all over. Disappointed, we stayed put under the warm blankets for a little longer. Not much excitement for the day except the fact that we were able to get a good reception on our cell phone (Provider: Vodafone) from a specific point in the village and we called our parents to share some of the excitement and our news of doing well. The day went by hoping for a clear weather to see the mighty Kanchenjungha as well as the tallest, Mt. Everest. Sandakphu is a so strategiacally placed that it is the only place on earth from where you can see 4 of the top 5 peaks in the world in terms of height. Apart from the ones mentioned earlier, Lohtse and Makalu are the other 2 peaks which can be seen from here if you are lucky enough. Short hikes to a small Hindu temple hidden in the woods and to a valley on the edge of a mountain (locally known as 'Aal') kept us active for the day.

Sandakphu to Gurdum (9,500 ft.)

This was the penultimate day of our trek and also our last chance to view the stunning Himalayan range we had come to see. Alas, it was not our lucky day and the haze and cloudy conditions prevailed like the previous days. With time, it did clear up a little and we were able to get a foggy view of the mighty ranges and were left wondering how great a view it could have been with clear skies. A short climb of about 50 mts. to the literal highest point of West Bengal where a lot of prayer flags keep fluttering concluded our stay at Sandakphu. We added our own flag as well to the collection with our names written on it and started our descent at around 8 AM. Our stop for the day was Gurdum, about 11 kms. away. After an hour of gradual descent, we had the last glimpse of Sandakphu top from a far away lower view point. Subsequently, the descent got very steep and relentless. After a couple of hours of steep descent, our already tired legs were begging for respite. Such steep descents are particularly hard on your knees and the walking stick we had bought before this trip turned out to be a life saver. We would have never made it without the stick. The trail here is through pristine bamboo forest for the most part and quite beautiful if you can see it through your aching knees. Multiple stops, water breaks and snacking breaks finally brought us to the top of a hill from where we could see the small village of Gurdum. We met some locals here who said its only 10 mins to village. However, the steep rocky path from here to the village took us a good 40 mins where we finally reached our homestay on the slope of the hill. The entire village is spread across the slope and it was interesting to know that electricity has arrived here just a couple of months ago. Lucky us!! By the time we reached it was almost 2 PM and we had our fill before we could get refreshed and relaxed. This was a very pretty village with spring flowers blooming all around, birds chirping incessantly and all in the lap of the paradise called Himalayas. It was a very soothing and calming stay here after the past few strenuous days and we could really start our recovery here.

Gurdum to Mirik via Srikhola (6,300 ft.)

The final day of our trek was a short hike through the forest to Srikhola, located right next to a small stream named the same. 'khola' of course means a small stream or river. It was another round of steep descent for about 30 mins after which it flattened out for the most part when we crossed the stream over a small bridge. Some of the spots on the trail was so well covered by the tree canopy that sunlight hardly ever reached the ground and in these spots you could hear a deafening hum of thousands of some kind of beetles constantly humming away. It was an eerie feeling passing through those spots. Finally, when we emerged from the forest onto a metaled road, we realized that our adventure was all but over. We were back into the real world leaving behind the unadulterated nature that was. We walked over to the end of the road which leads to a suspension bridge over the river Srikhola. After some refreshments at one of the few stalls, we hesitantly crossed the bridge to board our ride to Mirik. With heavy hearts we bid goodbye to Singalila National Park that was our home for the past few days and made promises to come back in the future.

Rest of the trip was a routine affair with Mirik proving to be a busy town, dirty and clumsy with little to be thrilled about. Our minds were probably overloaded with the past few days' experience which made it more difficult to accept the realities of urban India. Our departure train however was canceled for some reasons best know to the Indian Railways. So we had to book bus tickets for our return to Kolkata on the 10th of May which wasn't as comfortable as the train but good enough. When we finally reached Kolkata the next morning we were greeted by frying temperatures of 40 degrees!!

---