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Published: October 12th 2016
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When we decided to conduct our mothers final rites after her demise on 14th Sep'16, we barely had 5 days to organise the whole trip. After he cremation, our priest handed over the remains in a earthen pot still moist from the ablutions. as per our customs we need to take 4 articles associated with the ceremony being the mortal remains (ashes), the brass utensil, cloth knotted as a symbol and vessel with a spout for pooja.
The airlines person informed that we can carry the Asti, by hand baggage as the security will understand its significance but has to be packed properly. We were in fact prepared take it as baggage if it becomes a security issue. The flights available were from Chennai to Varanasi via Delhi. one should be prepared to dedicate a whole day for travel alone as transit at Delhi could be issue and it happened so as it was not a transit ticket, we had to check in again. The flight also got delayed, being the same airlines, they could accommodate us at a later flight. morning 10am flight actually left at 1PM. and the connecting flight was at 6:30PM. we landed at Varanasi at
8PM.
Varanasi is an international airport but local flights park near the terminal and you need to walk to the exit, after Modi became the Prime minister from this constituency which speaks volumes in efficiency.
Our stay was fixed at Kumarasamy Mutt - http://www.srikumaraswamymutt.com/about.aspx and they had provided a transit house at our disposal. The reservations could be made from Tirupandal, Kasi Mutt also as these two are managed by the same trust. The Kumarasamy Mutt was founded by Swamy Kumaraguruparar and his biography can be seen in the above link. This Mutt also manages the Kedar gaht or Kedareshwarar Temple.
The lane from the Kasi Mutt slopes down to the arterial lane that leads to all the famous Ghats and to Kasinath Temple. These lanes are 5 feet wide and accommodates two wheelers, push carts, cattle and people commuting. The bulls and cows that one spots along the lane are pretty docile though looks threatening for a city dweller. The touch of feel of this ancient city could be felt only by a walk through this lane lined with silk dealers, food stalls, milk parlours, numerous small temples and glimpse of Ganges through openings at intervals.
During flood time the Ganges swells almost to the top step and leaves tonnes of silt in its wake,
Couple of minutes down the lane brings you to Kedar Ghat, where we spent our maximum time. the entrance to the Ghat is either from a passage adjacent to the temple or through the temple itself as one would wish to bath in the Ganges and carry the sacred water to the temple. Though the temple was rebuilt in 17th century it retains the structure and format of Northern Indian architecture rather than South Indian temple layout. The temple also has a shrine for Lord Badhrinath and Kala Birava deties.
From the Ghats, boats are available for viewing the entire stretch of Varanasi Ghats from a grand stand. The boat man charges about Rs.1,000/- for a single personal trip or can join the pilgrims paying per per person rates. Manikarnika Ghat and Haris Chandra Ghat are the cremation Ghats and you can see the piers burning continuously on cremation of the dead.
In spite of the Governments efforts the hygiene and cleanliness is still an issue though there is a hi-decibel public awareness campaign.
Kasi Viswanath temple
is another must see for a pilgrim - https://shrikashivishwanath.org/. In particular, one should plan for Ganga Arthi at 6:30PM Dashashwamedh ghat and then proceed to Sapta Rishi Arthi at Viswanath temple at 7:30 PM. One would have to negotiate the narrow lanes leading to the temple and it has many entrances and would have to keep the tab on the gate number. The security is very tight and would need to deposit the mobile phone and the hand bag at the private lockers available with the pooja vendors. You would need to carry the ID proof. The Ticket has to be bought in advance and costs Rs.150/- per head from the temples. So plan to visit the temple by 5PM, have a Dharsan, collect the tickets and head for Ganga Arathi. You can expect to do a lot of walking.
Other important temples to visit are near Lalitha Ghat, the wooden temple identical to Pasupathinath temple at Kathmandu, Bindu Madhava temple and Kala Bahirava Temple. The Bindu Madava original temple was destroyed and new one is next to the Mosque where it was originally situated.
The Goddess Lalita also sports the name of Rajarajeswari another name of Durga.
This Ghat is very steep and you would have to walk through tunnels to reach above levels.
The Kala Bhirava temple is situated in the midst of myriad of lanes and one can easily get lost with out a guide. http://www.varanasi.org.in/kalbhairav-temple-varanasi. The famous Kasi thread that one wears on hand is available as prasad along with holy ash taken from the burning Ghats.
The trip was very tiring as we had to take innumerable baths at the Ghats and walk kilo meters. However be prepared for stomach aches and ear blocks. Antibiotics are a must on your return. Time is well spent visiting this ancient city and commercial quarters and will offer you the range of Banaras sarees, 40% cheaper and Lassi from road side shops.
Since we had gone for specific trip, we returned after the 13th day rites, yet the places to see are Birla Temple at BHUIT, Saranath Stuphi, Bhod Gaya, Gaya and Sangaman at Allahabad.
We plan to return after an year, first visiting Rameshwaram, then Kasi, Allahabad, Gaya then again Rameshwarm to complete the ritual.
Jai Kasinath.
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J. Sreenivasan
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Your trip to Varanasi
Glad you could do the last rites at Varanasi. It is always said people go to Varanasi to give up their life as the soul is supposed to go straight to heaven from there. This is great dedication for a lady who gave you birth.