Varanasi - 26 to 28 Novemebr 2015

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26-28 November -Varanasi









In the early afternoon we caught the flight from khajuraho to Varanasi. It was a long procedure checking in and going through security….but we are in India.







After a quick hour, we arrived at Varanasi airport then transfered to the Ramada for our first night. Our new driver and host from Incredible Real India picked us up and immediately on exiting the airport grounds, we saw how different this city was compared to all others we have visited to date.







Our 2 days here showed us how colourful, unrelentingly chaotic, indiscreet, unfinished, and the good and not so good in relation to Indians associated with the tourist industry, but generosity outside the industry. Let me explain.







After checking in we were driven 3 kms to the shore of the Ganges…this took 40 minutes!!! We were met by a guide whom our driver handed us over to. We then organized a rowboat and rower. We learned the next morning that this was the first time we have been ripped off in India. We paid over triple the fee which we paid for our sunrise boat trip - too bad!







We did however see the amazing sights at and after sunset that we have read about for many years: cremations (over 100 occur per day, 24/7), Brahma ceremonies and chants (very colourful and many lights), 1000s of locals, many of whom were pilgrims, and tourists.







Pilgrims come to the western banks of River Ganges to wash away their lifetime of sins in the sacred waters or to cremate their loved ones. It's a particularly auspicious place to die, since expiring here offers 'liberation from the cycle of life and death' our guide told us, making Varanasi the beating heart of the Hindu universe.







We saw many old men settling down for the night on the steps. These were poor men waiting to die so that they were on the spot to be cremated. Many of them had painted face and our guide said they lived on smoking grass and food handouts. Very heart wrenching.







We found this place not to be for the faint hearted. Large piles of wood could be seen as we rowed up to the edge of the river. Five bodies were burning. Only men come to the cremations with closest relative dressed in white robes.







Now wait for this: dogs were there and they would find the human bones that were not fully burnt. We couldn't believe what we were hearing. The group of men, who were known as the untouchables, were flippantly labeled as the 2nd wealthiest people in Varanasi. After the cremation (3 hours) and as they collect the ashes to give to the relatives, they also collect all the gold that the deceased person was wearing, and keep it.!!!! And Indian people wear a lot of gold.







The scenes were incredible so hope the photos give you some idea of what we saw.







We then rowed along to watch the ceremonies that the men in yellow were performing, waving fire and lights to the beating of drums and other instruments. It was a spectacle. After 2 hours, we rowed back to shore and was driven back to our hotel.







The next morning we were picked up at 5.30am to catch the sunrise at the same spot as the previous night. The western bank was very different at sunrise. Jumpers and jeans were the order of the morning. We repeated our rowing path in addition to seeing the site where the electrical and quicker cremations occurred.







We saw 100s of people washing themselves in the river. We also saw people washing their clothes and sheets. Some were doing yoga which is very popular in India. Many people in the boats had flowers and candles which they floated in the Ganges to give them good Kama etc. There is a massive amount of rituals that are practiced repeatedly throughout the day, particularly by Hindus, so that their gods treat/serve them well through their life. We saw many people kissing their hand and touching the sacred cattle in the street.







After, we walked through the Old City situated along the western bank ghats, we wlkked through a labyrinth of alleys called galis that are too narrow for traffic. They can be a bit disorientating so we were very pleased to be with our guide. This was the first time the smells were strong and with the sacred cattle wandering through the alleys, you had to watch were you stepped.







He took us to the 1776 Kashi Vishwanath temple (Vishveswara was Shiva the lord of the universe), but as were not Hindu and were not prepared to sign various papers, we didn't go in. There is 800kg of gold plating on the tower and dome so it is often referred to as the golden temple. The area was full of soldiers because of security issues and communal tensions. Bags, cameras, mobile phones, pens and any other electrical devise can't be taken into the alley where this temple is.







Varanasi is a very holy city so there are 100s of temples - Hindu, Moslem and Buddhist.







The guide took us to his place and his father showed us a lot of bedspreads, table cloths etc. etc. He said they were made on site and showed us a weaving machine which definitely had not been used since it was moved to his place!!!! That's India (sometimes)!







Just as a note, the current Prime Minister, Narendra Modi, is a Varanasi Member of Parliament so it has been getting some extra attention with new projects, road works and a general (much needed) sprucing up. There is massive poverty in this 3rd world city.







We then went back to the hotel to have breakfast, pack up and then move to our next hotel the Meradan Grand Hotel. Because we had a change in program and because it was a special festival going on, bookings were heavy.







During the afternoon our driver picked us up and took us to the nearby Buddhist stupas, Sarnath temple (the place where first prayer of Lord Buddha took place). There were several temples in the area including an archeological dig site with multiple temples.







That night we had dinner in the rooftop restaurant of our hotel. The service was fantastic and the food was tasty. Our waiter was excellent.







Other than seeing the Taj, the highlight of our trip so far was this particular night when we were literally dragged into a wedding reception at our hotel by the bride's father.







After we had dinner, we heard a band down below on the footpath and then saw fireworks. We knew it was a wedding. After looking over the side of the restaurant wall, we decided to go down and have a closer look. There was a small ceremony being done between the groom and the father and father-in-law (to be), sitting on mats out front of the hotel.







I went closer to the party to take photos and was encouraged to do so. The party then got up and went inside the hotel. As they did, the bride's father spotted me and grabbed my arm and said "please come and have dinner with us'. In the Australian and Cummings way, I told him I did not want to intrude". All he did was continue to firmly guide me along with the rest of the party.







We entered the reception room where there were 100s of people and the father sat us in the front row of seats…asking one person to move…very embarrassing!







Before being seated, we watchone of the Indian wedding traditions. The bridesmaids blocked the reception room doorway. The groom had to buy his way into the room by placing money on the silver tray which one of the girls was carrying. There was a lot of loud chatting by the group, none of which we understood. Anyway, the groom entered the room and sat on a lavish lounge which was on a stage.







The photos began in earnest. He had his photo taken with the many different groups in the room.







Then we heard the bride was about to enter. The 4 bridesmaids each held a corner of this glittering transparent piece of material which the bride was walking under. They walked towards the groom who joined her under the 'cover'. They both walked up on the stage. Many, many more photos were taken.







There was then an exchange of flower leis between the bride and groom. We were not witnessing the actual legal part of the marriage. This was to take place the next day.







Then the father of the bride told us to stand up and he introduced us to all the guests. We couldn't believe it. He then told us to stand behind the bride and groom to have our photo taken with them. Many other groups did also.







I hope you can pick up from the photos, the heavily-jewelled clothes of the bride and groom. They looked incredible. I am not sure how long it would have taken the bride to dress.







The father then insisted we have dinner. We started to say that we had already had dinner but a younger man with better English come over and explained that we must accept the father's invitation, even if we only eat a small amount.







The whole evening was amazing. We said our farewells as we learned that the party would go well into the wee hours of the morning. This was day 2 of the 4-day wedding celebration.







The father's generosity was incredible. We learned that this was the Indian way. They love sharing the wedding celebrations of their children. He was very proud of his beautiful daughter.







28 November 2015







After breakfast we visited the Bharat Mata Temple, Durga Temple, and Mosque of Moghul Emperor Aurangazeb.







At about 3.00pm, we checked out of our hotel and our driver took us to the airport. Our flight was going to be 1hr 40 minutes late…nothing unusual in India.

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