Ganga river


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Asia » India » Uttar Pradesh » Varanasi
May 5th 2014
Published: May 5th 2014
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Now many of you may be wondering where is the Ganga river, well that is actually the correct name for the river we know as the Ganges, so,imam reliably informed by our guide Dushyant. Discussing this topic amongst the group we don't know who when where or why the name was changed but in India it is known as the Ganga river, so that is what I will call it from now on.



We were up very early on the day ready for a 4am start! We took the usual crazy tuk tuk ride to a place near the river and got off and walked the rest of the way. The streets were much quieter at that time of the morning, but it was still very warm. There were street vendors still selling there wares, cigarettes, food etc. many selling flower offerings to use at temples and on the river. Of course there were the usual mix of people sleeping in the streets, dogs and cows roaming and crazy drivers beeping horns and people milling around on there way to or from somewhere. Oh and of course it was very warm but not baking hot



The Ganga river is the most holy of rivers in india and many people come to bathe in the waters, pray, give offerings and also fill up plastic containers to take the holy water home to use and keep in their homes. Also many people in India want their bodies to be burned on the banks river and have their ashes put into the river. They believe their souls will be freed and they will spend one year there and then reach nivarna.



We climbed aboard our boat as the sun was rising and there were already loads of people bathing in the river, and people washing clothes. We of course were not the only boat full of tourists watching the goings on around the river so one can only assume it's the done thing when you come to Varanasi to see the sunrise over the river and city.



It was quite a peaceful experience and we saw fish jumping and Dushyant said they even had fresh water dolphins! So may be the water isn't as polluted as we westerners think.



We firstly headed up, the river and along the way we watched the bathers of all ages shapes and sizes bathe and wash in the waters. Some were kids just playing, and families, some just washing as if they were in the bath and many performing a small religious ceremony which purifies them.



We then headed back down stream and in both journeys we witnessed the two places where they cremate the bodies, but we were not allowed to take any photos. Many people come to Varanasi to die so they can be cremated there. Also some people are also brought from other parts of India so they can be cremated as their final wish.



We saw funeral pyres at various stages of the burning process, and also groups of people waiting on the steps with bound and covered bodies adorned with flowers waiting for them to be cremated. In hindu culture only the men take the bodies to be burned and the bodies are covered in yellowy orange covers which is a colour which signifiers freedom. The dead persons soul is now fee of any one or anything and is now with the gods.



The people who cremate the bodies have been doing the job over many years and the skill is passed down from farther to son. It is a very hot job as you not only do they have to deal with the heat from the fires but also the blazing sun, but I'm told it pays well. Each family has to pay for the wood to burn the body and all around the funeral pyres were huge stacks of wood. The wood is then weighed and paid for by the family. If they cannot afford the cremation apparently the community will pay.



So after our journey along the banks of the Ganga river we came back to dry land and headed for breakfast to a local restaurant which seem to have endless flights if stairs to a roof top terrace. It was called the brown bread bakery and 10% of anything we spend is donated to a local school. I had porridge with honey!



Then we headed back to the hotel where I managed to catchup on some of my lost sleep from the crazy night train. (There is a song there - guns and roses lol)



After a lazy day we then headed back out for another crazy tuk tuk ride back down to the river so that some of our party could perform the ceremony mentioned above. You submerge yourself under the water 3 times and then chant and it is supposed to cleans your soul and absolve your sins and make you pure again.

Latoya and i decided to err on the side of caution and not take a dip - thanks to all the folks who responded to my question on the should or shouldn't i take the dip. We took the boat to small sand bank in the middle of the river where it was less crowded and cleaner.

So Dushyant was first in off the boat, closely followed by Chris. Mary and Steph waited until we hit the shore liNd and then paddled in. They had fun splashing around and swimming and then performing the small ritual to cleanse the soul. We took some photos so everyone could remember and those in the water will be able to show the folks back home.

As I'm typing this I have my music playing and take me to the river by the commitments has just come on - spooky!

We headed back to the city side of the shore lime and got off near one of the sites where they cremate the bodies. Ir was really hot but didn't smell,of burning bodies. We were not allowed to take photos of the cremation sire but we could take them from a distance. We did climb the steps of a building above the cremation site and I did take some photos from there bit of the river and surrounding area. We then went up tithe next platform and watched the cremations from above. Then suddenly two guys ran up torus and were very aggressive and accused me of taking photos of the cremation sire which i hadn't. Dushyant spoke to them and said I had been told not to take photos which I hadn't . I had to get my camera out and show them what I had taken photos of. Midis take in a couple of shots from the river but they were distance shots which is what we told them. I apologised if I had offended them. One said what would you say if I slapped you and then said sorry. Dushyant calmed the situation down and I deleted the shots which seemed to offend. Have to say I was shaken by the experience.



Dushyant said there are people who check out what tourists do, to make sure they do not take photos and are paid to make superego photos are not taken. They do make good money but use it to buy drugs and he said they were probably on drugs When they came over. Some also con tourists into them taking you on a tour, let you take photos and then charge you thousands of rupees not to say anything. Still upset by it now as it's tarnished my last real day of the holiday. :-(



Anyway we then went for lassie in the blue lassie bar which was nice, I had a banana one and apparently it's in the lonely plant guide, not sure why as it was ok but didn't rock my worlds so to speak. However the lassie was lovely and thick and quite sweet with lots of banana and was quite filling, so handy for a stop gap.



Then we went to watch an evening prayer where the trainee priests offer the five elements to the gods and the Ganga river. There were 7 priests to represent the 7 charakas. It was very beautiful so sat and watched it from our boat on the river for a while listening to the monks chant, and watch some of the traditional ceremony. It happens every evening at 8pm for anyone visiting and there's were well over 1000 people watching both on the shore line and on boats on the river.



We then went for food and I had a cheese and tomato pizza lol. It was at the sister cafe of the one we visited this morning so again 10% of our spend was going to a local school. Then a tuk tuk home to the hotel We got stuck in traffic and found ourselves being followed by a man who had taken a shine to Mary and was walking with his dick out in his hand. We moved slowly through the traffic and he kept catching up to us, and just as he started walking along side of us we moved. He had a demonic obsessive look in his eyes. We tried not to make eye contact Nd ignore him and pretended to be in conversation and eventually we go moving but he started running after us, but luckily we moved in quite quickly and we list him. A bit unnerving for all us 3 ladies but especially for Mary as she seemed to be the object of his obsession.

Not the best way to end such a fantastic trip with a great bunch of travel companions. However there are far better memories to remember, lots of photos, great conversations and lots of fun and laugher to remember for many years to come. So thank you everyone For making my first trip memorable in so many ways. :-)



Xxx

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