Advertisement
Published: December 7th 2011
Edit Blog Post
The Holy City!
I've been here for almost a week now and it's definitely my favourite city in India so far!
After experiencing the evening ceremony on my first night in Varanasi, I was up at 6am the next day for a sunrise boat ride along the ghats. The sun is quite dull amongst the morning fog but seeing the city from the water sheds a whole new light on it.
We saw most of the ghats along the holy Ganges including the cremation ghats. Photo's are not allowed at the cremation ghats. There are 2 ghats used specifically for cremation ceremonies and Hindu's travel from all over India to have their loved ones cremated by the holy Ganges, the belief being that this will break the re-birth cycle. Up to 800 bodies can be cremated at one ghat in a day. There are 5 types of people that are not allowed to be cremated at the Ganges, children under 5, pregnant women, people with lepresy/chicken pox, holy men and people bitten by snakes. Many people cannot afford the wood required to burn the body completely and remaining bones etc are thrown into the river to decompose.
There are also 2 ghats used for washing where men and women spend the whole day doing the cities laundry. And most are used for bathing.
After the boat ride and breakfast, my guide took me around to see the temples of Varanasi. It truly is the Holy City and there is constantly some sort of ceremony being performed at either the many small temples or on the streets.
We then went to Sarnath - about 10 km's out of Varanasi where the majority of the population is Buddhist. Sarnath is the home to the place where Buddha gave his first sermon to his 5 disciples.
After the tour was over, I found a very simple guest house with dirty walls and a funny smell, but clean sheets and my own bathroom with hot shower. For $10 a night, I can't ask much more. The rooftop restaurant with 180 degree views of the Ganges is where I've been spending most of my time. I met some lovely fellow aussies (over a beer) one of which lives in Kathmandu, and we've been spending nights at the rooftop playing cards, drinking beer and chatting.
Varanasi oozes character in
its tiny labyrinth of back alleys, filled with cows (and bulls that take up the whole alley), local markets, street food stalls. I've managed to get lost in these alleys at least twice, but with the help of a few locals managed to find my way again. Cows are everywhere here. There is a shop on the main market street where a bull has lived for 25 years. Each night the owner kicks him out, and each morning he comes back to take his place inside on the shop floor.
Everyone has a right to live in India. The diseased street dogs are really a painful sight (especially the puppies) for a dog loving westerner like myself. But still, they are free to find their own way on the streets, just like everyone/thing else, and sometimes get fed left over snacks from the street food stalls.
Each evening, during the Ganges ceremony at the main ghat, the homeless line up and get a big plate of rice and curry. The cows also line up (amongst the people) and also recieve a plate. A baby cow loses it in the middle of the alley, everyone steps back and lets
it have its fit before continuing on their way. A baby mouse sips from a chai cup on the street (very Disney!). A little boy offers me a biscuit while I'm getting my henna done, which I have to eat. When I drop some on the ground, he picks it up and before I know it, shoves it in my mouth. People walk down the street in a line chanting on their way to the temple to make their offerings whilst zooming motorbikes weave their way around. Anything goes.
I've spent a week in Varanasi and could easily do another week. Though looking forward to Mumbai tomorrow and relaxing on a beach in Goa.
Advertisement
Tot: 0.088s; Tpl: 0.012s; cc: 11; qc: 48; dbt: 0.0402s; 1; m:domysql w:travelblog (10.17.0.13); sld: 1;
; mem: 1.2mb
becomingjuliet
non-member comment
Impressed!
Libs, seriously sounds like you're having sooo much fun and learning loads about the place. To tell you the truth - just reading some of these things gives me a heart attack so I am thoroughly impressed with you! Stay safe my love - I am SO glad you've started a blog so I can follow your journey :). x.x.x.