The best place on Earth - Varanasi Part II


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Asia » India » Uttar Pradesh » Varanasi
January 4th 2011
Published: September 25th 2011
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Pandhey Ghat, Varanasi.Pandhey Ghat, Varanasi.Pandhey Ghat, Varanasi.

View taken from the balcony of Vishnu Rest House.
The next day, I woke up, showered and packed up, heading towards Pandhey Ghat. It took me about 10 mins to get there and I was hoping for a bed there. One thing I like about staying in dorms is not only the cost issue, but you get to meet other travellers from other parts of the world. I was relieved that I managed to get a bed, and intended to stay for 4 nights in Vishnu Rest House.

While waiting to fill up the 'C' form, I went to the balcony and lit up my cigarette. I was beginning to love the moment in Pandhey Ghat; simply picturesque, with the Ganges River seem to appear calm despite the daily drama - people doing their laundry, rituals, shower... you name it all.

I decided to walk around the premises, and venture to that alley walkways again. I went to Mona Lisa cafe, and it was crowded! I decided to share a table with someone and ordered Veg Noodle Soup with black Coffee. Suddenly...

Roy: 'Hello, is this seat taken?'
Me: 'Oh no, not at all, please have a seat.'
Roy: 'Thanks. Where are you from?'
Me: 'Oh, I'm
DSC00797DSC00797DSC00797

I miss this place.
from Singapore, and you?'
Roy: 'I'm from The Netherlands.'
Me: 'Ooh.. nice. How long have you been travelling?'
Roy: 'Prolly about 6 months now.. it's the last leg of my trip, and then back to home and start a new job. What do you do in Singapore?'
Me: 'I used to work as a assistant fashion designer and merchandiser back then, but hated it so much that I quit and make my way down here to do bit of soul searching! Haha'
Roy: 'Haha, so did you manage to find it here?'

The conversation went on for almost 2 hours! Roy is a teacher in Netherlands for a Moroccan school and freelance photographer with one of the NGOs that does humanitarian work. Surprisingly, we talked quite a number of things, including politics, religion etc. People assumed that I was Japanese and he was like no way, I looked more like Thai or Indonesian and not Japanese at all! Perhaps it's the way I dress up; with the jockey hat with my thick frame spectacles and shawl/scarf with my knitted pullover.

I introduced Roy to Anna (Guailo left a day after for Delhi) and we started hanging out at Cafe Mona Lisa. I'm starting to love Varanasi.. and I must say they have really interesting 'cafe' culture there. The smell of cow dung and incense burning are somehow the scent that I've gotten used to. When I feel like I need some time alone, I'll make my way down to the ghats, and order endless cups of chai nearby and just river gazing for 3 hours! I realised that I master the art of doing nothing at all! It's kinda therapeutic. To add some spice, there were a couple of travelers, who are musicians in their home country. Most of my Varanasi experience covers only within 10m away from me! LOL.

One day, Roy and I went to see a mini concert, witnessing traditional/classical Indian music. Of course, my favourite being the Sitar (there's a reason why they say always save the best for the last). I was really mesmerised that I ignore the curfew imposed back at the guesthouse! I ended up getting scolded by the guesthouse keeper for being late! (Curfew is at 10pm but I reach at 1045pm!) Nevertheless, there was something special about the event itself, since by 10ish, the ghats were pretty empty, and both Roy and I were making silly jokes, laughing as if we were high on hash or weed.

The next few days I was pretty lonely, as I was expecting Roy to usually come to Cafe Mona Lisa to have breakfast. There was a bit of disappointment but I was thinking, nyeah... I can't possibly force someone to just stick to me the whole time! I decided to venture around the market area, and walked along the ghats while listening to my iPod, ignoring 'HI, DO YOU WANT BOAT?' or 'KONICHIWA, KUNBAWA!' or 'HALLO, WHERE ARE YOU FROM?' I'm tired of repeating the same stuff over and over again for the past 2 months of my trip!

On the last day of my trip, I decided to check out the infamous German Bakery that is situated somewhere.. well I kinda forgot the name of the place, but it was featured in Lonely Planet as their pick! They provided accommodations too and ran by an NGO that provides for the needy and Indian girls in Varanasi, something like that. I've got few hours before I make my way down to Varanasi Junction train station and decided to order a cup of Americano and brown roll. That was where I met Marian, a 19 year old German who traveled extensively to India, from Europe via border crossing. We chatted for awhile. He was telling me of his fantastic travel stories when suddenly the topic of religion came about. He told me he was really interested in Islam. It was a bit weird in the first place, because I consider myself as pretty liberal and not the perfect example of what Muslim should be. He traveled to Middle East while on the way to India to experience Islam with his own eyes. It was sad for him to see Islam's image tarnished with those so called 'Hardcore Muslims' when Islam is all about peace, submission to God. And he jumped onto homosexuality and I was like errr what? LOL. I'm guessing sometimes, you just need to shift your topic to somewhere else to avoid awkwardness. We finally went onto our separate ways after exchanging Facebook and I told him one day I'll visit him in Berlin for sure.

Now, it's time to pack up, and head down to Varanasi Junction train station. I'll be making my way to Howrah,
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My ultimate favourite performance.
Kolkata. That will mark my last leg of my trip, before I board the flight to Kuala Lumpur in Malaysia, and make my way back home to Singapore. I'm not looking forward to it! And I'm getting broke too. Sigh.

Somehow, there's this sudden sadness which linger onto me. I hate the fact that I am leaving Varanasi.


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