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Published: April 20th 2006
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The presence of death in Varanasi is seen mainly from the colossal Marnikarnika Ghat which burns 24 hours a day as well as a smaller burning ghat a little further down stream. At Dasaswamadh Ghat there are people who will shave the heads of others who have lost loved ones.
For a ghat that is supposed to be burning 24 hours a day I noticed there was nothing but ashes this morning. So I just stood around there for a while and watched people raking ashes. Marnikiarnika is a colosal ghat that has a few different tiers where burings may take place. There are huge stacks of firewood on either side that are at least two storeys tall. the shores of Marnikarnika are thick with ash and strewn with spent orange garlands of Marigolds. Bodies are covered in cloth and dipped into the ganges before they are put on to the pyre. Amongst all this, people are dwarfed by its structure, even the huge brahmin bulls that seem to perpeturally haunt its steps like living sculptures appear like plastic toys.
I heard someone call to me. It was Prakash from the internet bar. He wanted me to take a
photo of his friend's mother's body which was about to be burnt. The sun had already risen though the morning's coolness had not fled. We walked over the ashes to the pyre of logs and sticks. the woman's body was covered to her neck in sticks making only her face which was painted red visible. All together she left three sons and the two younger ones stood at her head and stared to me. she had died last night and there were a few family and friends standing around too. I quickly took photos of the the family with the mother and left. I moved on to the next ghat and waited for the smoke to rise. I will never tire of the ghats. each one is like a palace or a shrine and they all face the beautiful mother ganges. I believe it is a testament to the people's faith that there are so few illness related to bathing and drinking Gange's water. I would throw myself any day into the Ganges before I jumped into the Pudong River that's for sure, same goes for the Seine.
I began to make my way back for my moring tabla
lesson and decided to go behind Marnikarnika risking perdition but what the hell. the shops behind Marnikarnika are all to do with the industry of death I spotted a starecase that seemed to lead to the top of the ghat so I followed the steep narrow step upward to find the turds of previous intrepid cows that had been there before me and a goat in high heels. I moved to the edge of the rooftop and looked down to ghat and could now spot my burning woman. This morning she is burning alone and the fire was good and strong. the people were around still, a little entranced by the fire as we always seems to be.
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Ben
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Did all these draw you to ponder the cycles of life?