Varanasi

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We left the magnificence of the Taj Mahal and the chaos of Agra, and continued on to Varanasi. We stepped off our overnight train,and soon found ourselves in a rickshaw in a bumper-to-bumper traffic jam. It took the better part of a horn honking, fume-filled hour to make it to the old part of the city by the holy Ganges, but we finally made it. We walked through the narrow, labyrinthine streets to the shore of the famous river. After a walk down the main strip to survey our options, we settled on a place to stay called 'Vishnu Rest House' at Pandey Ghat. This part of the Ganges river is arranged in a series of 'ghats', or steps down into the water.

Varanasi is an incredible place. The cross section of life teeming along the banks of the river day and night is fascinating - from people doing laundry (by slapping the wet garments on the rocks), to people bathing (hard to believe they actually get cleaner not dirtier, or worse!), to people praying, to people selling chai and samosas...people people people!! Oh, and lots of cows, dogs, monkeys, and birds too.

One of my favourite things about the old part of Varanasi is that the lanes are too narrow for all but the most maniacal motorbike riders. Wandering through the maze of walkways just back from the riverside is amazing - every shop is a 'hole in the wall' - lots of little restaurants, snack shops, internet places (like the one I'm in now), music stores, knick knacks, postcards...all this and perhaps the best people-watching of the trip so far. Being the holiest city in a very spiritual country, all manner of Hindu pilgrims and sadhus wander the streets and hang out on the ghats. We've spent most of our time here just wandering around soaking it all up - with a little wedding planning thrown in for good measure!

Melanie was in Varanasi 10 years ago, so she's been enjoying reconnecting with her music teacher Raj, who remembers her well. Mel attended his wedding when she was here last time, so it was very interesting for her to meet his 10-year-old son. She took up the tablas again and continued where she left off, learning with Raj's nephew. He's 18 years old, but already a very talented player. Perhaps even more wonderful than this family's musical talent is their warm, open hearts. They welcomed us to visit with them, and spend hours chatting as if we were old friends. Mel has found this an especially enjoyable experience - because of the culture, it is more difficult to her to connect with Indian people in a genuine way as a woman. For that reason, this kind-hearted family of musicians has been a pleasure to spend time with.

We've found a fine selection of restaurants here too - we had a special (and very unlikely!) treat for lunch a couple of days ago - a cheese fondue! Unbelievably, in the land of curries and chapatis, we happened upon a place that had 30 different kinds of cheese on offer, as well as fine coffees, amazing whole-grain breads, and lots of organic stuff. They also provide healthcare and pensions for their staff, and refill water bottles with filtered water (reducing the use of plastic bottles). In the oldest living city in India, we managed to find the most progressive restaurant.

Last night, I went for a walk down the river to the main burning ghat - this is where they cremate bodies before putting to the remains in the Ganges (no swimming for us!). Sitting and watching 5 funeral pyres burning at once was a profound and moving experience - one I will never forget.

Our whole time in Varanasi has been very memorable. We have mixed feelings about leaving a couple of days before Holi - a huge festival which involves everyone joyously throwing coloured water on each other. It would interesting to see...maybe not so interesting to be the target of hundreds of semi-permanent dye filled water balloons.

So tonight we say farewell to Varanasi, and board yet another night train - this one heading north towards the mountains and adventures that await us in Nepal! ~

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Photos

Gulab Jamun
Mel indulges in one of her favour sweet Indian treats