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Published: February 5th 2009
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Tuesday Jan 27,2009 our train trip to Varanassi begins by trying to call a cab to take us to the train station. Sounds like an easy task, it was not. Called three taxi services and all said no can do. Called Jai at work and he called back right away saying a taxi will be there a 4 pm to pick us up. Bewildered I asked how he did it. He said a few taxi services have his number already into there system. When he calls he gets a priority que and has his address loged into the system. I was greatful.
The taxi ride was short, cost 150 ruppees ( 3 dollars ). However the driver took us to the rear entrance to the train station, un beknown to us. Seems there is a front and back. Front is were all the departure info is. Back is entrance to train platforms marked 1- 20 with walking bridges between them. No way to know what platform to go to. I ask a policeman, he says 14 or 15. We lug our suitcases, 1 big one,2 small ones and two carry on bags, up the steps and over to the platform.
Cannot find any sign with the train we need to take. Look around for awhile trying to orientate ourselfs and decide to go to another platform. Carrying our load back down the stairs and up and over. Still cannot find the right spot. I ask a vendor and he says our train will be on platform 13. We go back up the steps and over to were platform 13 is and we see our train number on a monitor. We are hopeful we are at the right spot. As we waity we are bombarded by beggars asking for money or food and one he-she who walked up to me and rubbed by face with her/his hands and smiled and said something I could not understand. It was creepy. I used the magic word Annya said to the monkey man, it did not work. This person would not leave me alone. We decided to haul our stuff to another platform away from this person and wait for our train. We waited and waited and waited, no train.
Not knowing if we are in the right spot we look worried and someone who speaks English asks if he can help. He
tells us that the train we are waiting on is delayed at least 4 hours. There was a train collision on the tracks from a previous service earlier in the day. We wait and wait. I notice a sign that says International Visitors Bureau Next to Platform 1. We go and check it out. After much hassle we find the place, carrying our load up and down the stairs and all around the trian station. We find the front of the station and the visitors bureau and the official says " the train is on time." It wasn't. Anyway about 4 hrs later we finally find the right platform, the correct train and the right compartment.
When the sun went down as we waited, the rats came out and began scurrying around the rails. That was unsettling eeee . Began to talk with fellow passengers waiting. Met a man and his 20 something daughter and he talked about Obama. He said that Obama was from the same country he was from, Africa. He also said that he heard a beggar tell him today that he was just like Obama also. I asked how and he said the beggar said,
we both want change.
Turns out the guy was from South Africa originally and lived now in New Delhi with family in Varanassi. His daughter was going to the family in Varanassi. He was just seeing her off. If gets her settled in her seat, gives her a kiss and says goodbye. He then turns to me and asks if I would look out for her on the train.She was quiet and spent most of the time to herself.
We were in a three tier ac section of the train. This means a long booth, with a bottom to sit on, a back and a top. After traveling awhile the man across from me asks if it is time to sleep. Its probably close to midnight. I said sure.
Now their are six of us. Three on one side of the bench and three on the other. Everyone gets up and the back of the bench, lifts and folds up and becomes the middle birth. Now we have a top,middle and bottom sleeping births. But who is to go where? Another person asks me if he can look at our ticket. From their he figured out we
were on the two bottom births and everyone else went to the rest. A porter brought a package that contained fresh sheets and a hand towel. He later brought wool blankets.
We both slept great until the sun rose, about 7 am we woke. Unable to capture the countryside on film yet. Hopefully by next blog.
There is a lot of rubble and trash thrown about everywhere. When the society had biodigradable mass or food that the cows and dogs could eat, the trash was less. Now lots of plastic junk just everywhere. The culture accepts just throwing everything on the ground. Is unsettling for me. Looks trashy.
The train ride into Vaanassi ended up taking longer then schedule. Was to be 11 hrs total. Ended up being 15 hrs. Seems that the delay was because of a head on collision of two trains on the tracks we travelled on. Reports say no one is hurt, just took awhile to clear the tracks.
Upon arrival in Varanassi we were immediately greeted by JP's Family. Anil came right onto the train and met us as we were struggling with our luggage. He escorted us thru the train
station to a Auto Rickshaw. The driver followed him to his house. We were greeted by his wife and her sister and there mother. They have been treating us like honored guests. I cannot say how appreciative I am for their hospitality. We have our own room and they feed us great,freshly cooked Indian meals. Just incredible.
I think our living in Taos has helped our stomachs prepare for this exotic food. The spices used are delicious and have not bothered either of us. Fresh Dahl, vegetables,Curry, Raita, Chai, Sweet desserts and lots of Nan like fresh unlivened bread,Puris and Poppadum. WE are in food heaven.
After being fed and rested we then took a bycycle rickshaw to the Ghats on the river ganges for a ceremony called Artis. The Ganga river is considered to be the holiest river in all of India . Varanassi is the " City of Light " founded by Shiva. It is one of the oldest living cities in the world with religious practices going back to sixth century b.c. It is considerd to be one of the holiest cities because it is a place were the gods desend onto the earth. Many
people come here to die and to burned at the Ghats on the shores of the river and have their ashes thrown into the river. It is said that anyone who dies here attains instant enlightenment or moksha.
Burning bodies being cremated out in the open on the Ghats take place all day long, everyday. With death in the air, Varanassi is strangely very light in energy for me. It feels peaceful here. More gentle then any place we have been to so far.
The Artis are performed everynight between 6:30 - 7 pm. I believe it is a ceremony honoring of the river.
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Sue Kelly
non-member comment
Jeannie and I are wowed!
We are looking at your site on 2-6-09. (Friday) at Acorn. How cool that Annya was dancing with the other dancers! Sue will try to download and print. Too bad about your camera, Richard - If you can iron out particulars I can send you one. - let us know. So fun to enjoy your adventures vicariously w/ none of hassles. love ya both, Jeannie and Sue