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Published: January 27th 2012
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Phew !
We're actually in Agra now, with a beautiful view of the Taj Mahal from our hotel window.
But first, I wanted to tell you a bit more about Bodh Gaya.
If New Delhi is the London of North India, then I suppose Varanasi could be construed to be similar to the Holy City of Liverpool, then Bodh Gaya is the Clitheroe. There the similarity ends (if it ever started).
Not that I am suggesting that Clitheroe be a central site for holy pilgrims from all over the world, I'm talking size comparisons really.
The main site in Bodh Gaya is the Mahabodhi Temple which is built on the site that Buddha sat under the Bodhi tree when he achieved enlightenment. The tree (or at least a tree which is allegedly related to the original) is still there and Buddhist pilgrims come from all over the world. Some even come from as far away as Bilsborrow (though not convinced they're proper Buddhists).
The temple itself is mindblowing. A huge structure, 100-odd feet high, with ornate carvings housing a statue of Buddha. I have never seen anything like it in my life and it was
just amazing to be there and see it. In fact, the whole site is amazing, espcially at night when the whole area is lit up and you can hear the sound of Buddhist chanting. For me this has been one of the highlights of the trip so far. Truly mind-blowing and we returned a number of times to sit under the Bodhi tree and take in the atmosphere.
Outside the temple, there are lots of beggars, children, old people, crippled people. It is difficult to know what to do. We are told (by the guides) to ignore them as if you give money to the children, you propogate the idea that begging is a viable way to survive and they will do that rather than study. You also hear of adults purposefully crippling children to use them to beg, so again you don't want to propagate this. Also, there's just too many of them. Anyone who does give something just gets mobbed. Ignoring them just feels wrong (especially given the 8-fold path of Buddhism ie right attitude, right mindfulness etc etc) but you are left with no choice.
We were taken to an orphanage for the poorest children
and orphans from the area. Basically no more than a concrete shed with three bare concrete rooms. There were about 15 kids there who sang some songs for us. We gave them a generous donation (though still not sure if we were scammed, some investigtive journalism to do when we get home methinks) but it felt like the right thing to do under the circumstances.
The next day we saw some other sites, mainly temples, but one site that stood out was an 80-foot statue of Buddha. Fantastic.
Hotel was a bit crappy - not so clean, food a bit challenging. Didn't like it. Our guide was a nice enough guy ( I think ). Quite young, English not so good. For example, I asked him how old the Mahabodhi temple was and he said 26,000 years ago (so, when Mammoths roamed the Earth). Another example, we were walking down to the temple for evening prayers ( I know, I know ) and I noticed a bright star quite low down. As Jupiter was already high in the sky, I was wondering what it was and mentioned it to Moi. He asked me what I was talking about
and I asked him if he knew. He said, "Yes Sir, that's where the driver goes for a wash and does his toilets".
Enough said.
But, he knew his way round. He also took us up a mountain to a cave which is again where Buddha stayed for 6 years and is also a place of pilgimage and worship.
But the place that will stay with us the most is the Mahabodhi Temple.
Next day we drove back to Varanasi to board an overnight train to Agra (arriving at 5:00am this morning). Now that was an experience in itself, but will be the subject of another entry.
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stephen thomas
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Mr. and Mrs.
Phew Indeed!