Advertisement
Published: March 27th 2006
Edit Blog Post
I finally made it to Agra, city of the Taj Mahal (pronounced MUH-hel). I left last Monday morning, March 20, at about 5:30 a.m., arriving at New Delhi train station while it was still dark. What a terrible place! And so busy, even at that hour, that I had to get out half a block before the station and walk. But the train was on time and two hours later I was met in Agra by a car and driver.
It was the start of my Golden Triangle road trip: Delhi-Agra-Jaipur is India's most travelled tourist route. Originally, I had no plans to make this trip, but I decided I wanted to see Rajasthan (Jaipur is the capital of Rajasthan) and I still hadn't seen the Taj, so, away I went ....
Agra is a perfect example of the extremes that India is always presenting you with. The Taj really does live up to its billing as the world's most beautiful building. And Agra is probably the worst place I have been in India. Its dirty, expensive and in a condition of delapidation; plus, the hawkers are particularly aggressive. I was very glad I had a car and driver
for the day (though it was VERY expensive, at least double the price it would be elsewhere), and very glad I was staying only for the day and not overnight. It was also very hot -- the hottest day I have yet spent in India. However, the heat is a dry heat and I preferred it to the humidity of Chennai.
I arrived at the Taj at about 9:30 or 10 a.m., missing seeing the sunrise on its semi-translucent white domes, but also missing the crowds. I think I was quite lucky -- as always! -- as there really weren't many people there.
I was tired and still not feeling 100 per cent well after my bout with Delhi-belly, but I cannot pretend I was not really excited as I entered the outer gates. Even the entry fee, 750 rupees (about $20), did not diminish my feelings of anticipation. (Indians pay about 20-50 rupees.) Mostly, I just could barely believe I was really there, at one of the world's most photographed sites, a building considered one of the wonders of the world.
After you go through the outer gates, you enter a huge courtyard, surrounded by red
the classic foreigner picture
I am regularly asked by Indians to have their picture taken with me. sandstone walls and buildings. From here you can only see the top of the Taj's domes. You walk through a beautiful red building, an elaborate gate building, and there it is in front of you -- though still quite far away. Enormous gardens stretch out in front of you, including the famous reflecting pools. They turn the fountains off regularly so that tourists can take the classic picture of the Taj, reflected in the long rectangular pools.
Seeing the Taj, for me, was like seeing a famous movie star in person. You've seen it so many times that you cannot see it with "fresh" eyes, but it doesn't matter. It is spectacularly beautiful, and, like a priceless gem, sits in an appropriately glorious setting. The architecture, the gardens, the story that inspired -- everything about the Taj is amazing. It was a stroke of genius to place it high up, on a platform, so that only the sky becomes its backdrop. And to appreciate it truly, you have ot get up close and see the incredible workmanship, carvings and inlaid semiprecious stones. The interior is very small, just a room that encloses the tombs of Shah Jahan and his
family fun
This family was sitting on the platform, right at the entrance to the Taj, and they asked me to join them. I had a really nice time with them. wife Mumtaz Mahal, surrounded by a carved screen. A guide with a flashlight shows you the inlaid lapis lazuli, malachite and other gems.
I was thrilled to be there, and spent at least two hours there, soaking up the atmosphere in the peaceful garden and enjoying the beauty of the mausoleum from every angle.
I am sure most people know the story of the Taj Mahal, how it was built (between 1631 and 1653 ) by Mughal Emperor Shah Jahan after the death of his beloved wife Mumtaz Mahal (as she was delivering their 14th child!) in 1631. This is why it is called a monument to love. The poet Tagore described it as a "teardrop on the face of eternity."
I found that knowing the story of Shah Jahan helped to appreciate the Taj, and also Agra Fort, which is across the Yamuna River. Shah Jahan was deposed by his son and imprisoned in Agra Fort. He spent the last eight years of his life locked up, but able to see out across the river at the Taj, a monument to his love, and grief, for his wife.
In the afternoon, after a REALLY expensive
a different angle
Ajay likes this pic. lunch, I toured the Agra Fort, which is also very impressive. It was begun by Emperor Akbar in 1565, and additions were made afterwards, especially by his grandson Shah Jahan, who ruled from the Fort (and was later imprisoned here). I walked around the Fort listening to my iPod -- which I wasn't allowed to bring in to the Taj Mahal -- and sat quietly in the shade in the courtyard of the harem's quarters, enjoying the historical and lovely surroundings.
Then, it was time to leave, and my car took me to the train station. I spent the evening travelling by train to Jaipur, Rajasthan. The train was surprisingly empty and also one hour late in leaving. Luckily, I sat near two really great English people, Rob and Jill, and we chatted most of the way to Jaipur (about 4 hours). They also helped me find my car at Jaipur train station, which at midnight was a very scary place. I arrived at Jasvilas Hotel in Jaipur extremely tired and very satisfied. I finally made it to the Taj Mahal, the emblem of India, after almost four months in this country!
In a separate entry, I will
Agra Fort
This is the side of the Fort that faces the Yamuna river and the Taj Mahal on the other side. tell you about the rest of my road trip, which took me to the desert cities of Jaipur and Jodhpur in Rajasthan, land of kings.
Advertisement
Tot: 0.11s; Tpl: 0.017s; cc: 8; qc: 56; dbt: 0.0682s; 1; m:domysql w:travelblog (10.17.0.13); sld: 1;
; mem: 1.2mb
housediggity
non-member comment
Good post
Great description of the Taj. Looking forward to future posts. How did you arrange the driver?