Agra & The Taj Mahal.

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Jan 15th - With twenty-five minutes left before we reach our next destination, Agra, I still cannot wrap my head around India. It is a place of extreme poverty. We have passed slums made of trash, concrete slums, slums made of mud and straw. However there was on mud hut that had a satellite for a TV - guess they had the priorities straight huh? There have been children playing cricket next to the railway tracks. Workers sleeping among the railroad ties. Yet everything is vibrant with every colour imaginable. From the bright turquoise paints, to the women’s clothing hanging on the clotheslines.
We booked a second-class ticket for 150 Rupees (2.2 euros) for our 3-hour train ride. We have seats 23,24 upper and lower berth. Trains are filthy but well ventilated. Men and little children are walking up and down the cars selling everything from socks and hats, to rice from a bucket, to playing cards and key chains. There are few foreigners that we have seen. Less than expected. The Indians, much to my surprise, don’t make much notice that we are around. I was expecting being hassled, but maybe I was just fancying I was a lot cooler than I am. I’m saving this now and getting bags ready for Agra where a rickshaw is awaiting us to take us to the Tourist’s Rest Area Hostel.

Rickshaw was awaiting us with a sign for Emily. Easy, fast, free, and saved us the hassle of haggling for a rickshaw which can be quick annoying sometimes. But it’s all in the game. After being shown to our cell like rooms (which were only 450 Rs per night). I broke down for maybe the 3 time this trip. Culture shock. Pete has been amazing in helping me cope with this. He says he is playing the “strong man” and I am thankful. Having traveled before, I knew I could handle India - but to which degree. True, we are not slumming it, but we are looking after our money pretty carefully. India is intense. From the smells, population density, the absolute worst poverty, public urination, grabbing of my arm to get 50 Rs, it has completely and utterly overwhelmed me. The children tug at the heartstrings when they sweep the floors of the trains for money or food. My instinct is the give them money, but I look the other direction as firmly as I can. We did receive quite a number of friendly smiles and hellos from the children in the streets when we took a wrong turn today. Pete would have been their hero if he had managed to catch the cricket ball- but Mr. Sticky fingers missed!!! The food as of date has stayed where it was intended. Street food, which we bravely tried yesterday - Pete twice - me once, was cheap and brilliant! Ate some fried breads with sweet chili sauce for an afternoon snack along the crowded streets of the Old Town of Agra for only 3 Rs apiece.

After looking visibly lost today on the streets, we were picked up by a rickshaw driver. For 100 Rs, he became our driver for the evening. Taking us to the bazaars, walking along side us for a chat, advising us on local food, taking us by the Taj for dinner, waiting outside, before returning us to our hostel. Whether we got ripped off or not, we aren’t too sure, but he was nice for a chat, and we were grateful for him in the dark! Even though we should lay off the beers for fear that we might be too heavy to rickshaw around!

In true Weasley sweater fashion, I was forced to buy a wool sweater to keep me warm at night!! Except by Weasley sweater I mean a beautiful, hand-sewn jumper from Kashmir! Nice and warm! However, my white undershirt bares the red dye as proof of purchase.

One of the 7 world wonders tomorrow, yes please!

Pete’s Point of View - Not playing the strong man sweetie, I am a strong man??? Seriously though Intense isn’t doing this country justice! If people could see the average person on the street, well I don’t know??? What would happen??
To tell you all a little secret, no Delhi belly thus far, in fact, not even an inkling! Food is delicious, filling, and with exception of the small green chili I rather stupidly mistook for a green bean (yes I am that stupid - and OMG, my mouth was on fire for 30 minutes!!) not too spicy….. all can change though!

Had a great dinner with Emily during our little rickshaw run the evening, was grateful to have the opportunity to have an elongated chat with her alone, in a stress free environment for the first time in what seems like ages!
Tried to ring home before, no answer, so mum if your reading this, I tried, your fault not mine!!

Ok campers, night time is here, alas I am leaving you, must get some sleep as we must be up early to see the Taj at sunrise.

Speak soon my lovers x

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Photos

Rooftop Taj
The Taj from the rooftop where we had ginger lemon tea!

the waiting game.
waiting for our train that was 9 hours late in Agra.