The Taj Mahal: a Mugal Love Story


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October 20th 2009
Published: October 20th 2009
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The Taj Mahal in Agra, India is one of my most anticipated sight seeing events. Anticipating it allowed me to get through the tedious and annoying visa application process in Rome that took 10 days. A breathtaking wonder of the world it is faced in weather defying marble. It costs foreigners 750 rupees or 15 US dollars to enter. 250 of those rupees go to the Archeological survey of India to preserve the monument and 500 is a local tax that probably goes to line politicians’ pockets, but in any case it is well worth the money. It cost 20 rupees for locals.
Shah Jahan built the Taj to enshrine his favorite wife Arjumand Bann Begum who was known as Mumtaz Mahal, which means “chosen one of the Palace.” The name Taj Mahal is a shortened version of her name. She died giving birth to her 14th child in 1631. Her monument took over 20 years to construct and was finished in 1653. I am not sure that the romanticism that spurred this construction is quite what I would wish. Mumtaz Mahal was one of many wives and she died because she was giving birth for the 14th time. Though I guess that just shows that she was a favorite. I personally would have preferred less favor and more lifetime.
Agra Fort, another of Agra's tourist masterpieces, was home to Shah Jahan and his son Aurangzeb who overthrew his father and imprisoned him in the fort for eight years before he died in 1666.
Agra fort, while definitely in possession of defenses, should be called Agra palace. Akbar (Shan Jahan’s grandfather) started construction on the fort and it was finished by his grandson. Akbar was famous for his liberal approach to religion and his enormous harem that consisted of 5000 women. These women came from all over the empire as gifts from defeated enemies. Supposedly each woman had her own quarters and servants. The harem itself was an isolated space guarded by eunuchs, who had been forcible castrated. Life as a harem woman was probably not so pleasant as alcoholism and drug addiction was common.
I visisted the abandoned city of Fatehpur Sikri that was built and then abandoned by Akbar. It is very nicely preserved even though it is made of sandstone. There, as well as at Agra Fort, there is a large pachisi board built into the floor where the emperor would play pachisi with dancing girls as pieces.




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Sunrise and the Taj MahalSunrise and the Taj Mahal
Sunrise and the Taj Mahal

are you tired of the Taj Mahal yet?
Fatehpur SikriFatehpur Sikri
Fatehpur Sikri

Scummy swimming pool and diver
Tiered PavillionTiered Pavillion
Tiered Pavillion

The top tier of this pavillion was supposedly the place of secret amorous rendezvous by the harem women.
Taj Mahal seen from Agra FortTaj Mahal seen from Agra Fort
Taj Mahal seen from Agra Fort

Along the Yamune River
Mosque that used to be connected to Agra FortMosque that used to be connected to Agra Fort
Mosque that used to be connected to Agra Fort

The British Built a railway between the Mosque and the Fort, but they used to be directly connected.


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