Taj was manic

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Dear All,
I just realised that I hadn't published the last blog. Sorry that you hadn't heard from us for so long.

While in Amritsar we visited the Indo-Pak border. Every day at sunset a stadium full of people (from both nations!) turns up to scream at their neighbours!!! There is then a changing of the Guard (where they Goose step up to the border line itself, dangle their legs over the lin, but don't actually cross; it all culminates in a slow flag race, both trying to make sure that the others ensign doesn't ever stay higher than the others. We read in the Times of India that the majority of the English and Scots want to seperate; so maybe we will have our own border excursions in 10 years time!

In the meantime we've been to India's no 1 sight the Taj Mahal. I was quite disappointed to be honest. We had opted to go there during afternoon and sunset and that was a mistake. Our hotel was only 200 m from the entrance and early morning would have been so much better. In the afternoon the queues were enormous and it felt inside the garden like a beehive. not much of peace and quiet 750 RS entrance fee (almost 10 pounds!!!) plus 100 to jump the queue, didn't really leave the option to go again next morning. Also one couldn't sit leisurely on the lawns or have a picnic there as either wasn't allowed (that is how Terry had experienced it previously). Yes the building is very beautiful but it looks just like on a postcard.

TK: Ten years ago (when it was much quieter.) I had visited the Taj about 4 times in 3 days. After a while I had had enough of the building and just wandered around the outer perimeter, thinking about the pollution which the Indian govt allowed to pollute and slowly destroy it's national treasure; there were a couple of kids who initially wanted some rupees off of me, I think I shared some biscuits with them. They followed me to the river and started skimming stones. Each stone went half way across the river (as wide as the Thames.) I asked if I could have a go and even with a half hearted toss it bounced about 10 times. I tried to ask them where the special stone had come from; they pointed to the outer perimeter of the Taj and pulled a large chunk of the plaster off in their hands. There I was worrying about pollution, and I was (inadvertently) making worse damage myself. Anyway 10 years on the Taj authorities have cordoned off this part of the Taj stopping the Kids (and Tourists) skimming stones.

From Agra we went to Orcha. This was a quiet little place alongside a river. There were plenty of ancient palaces and temples to look at. It was off of the main tourist route and was heaven after the hectic nature of Agra. We stayed in alovely little hotel with view of the fort/palace. We even had hot water as and when we wanted it. Lovely. Within the first 10hours we found the restaurant that served the most delicious indian food even though it was called "Milan".
We were really chilled out when we left there 2 days later.

There was then a 4 hour bus ride to Khajaraho. Leaving at 11 from the next town (20km). It should have all been really easy: we got to Jhansi at 10 and then people shoved us onto a different bus then we wanted (as that one had broken down apparently) and told us all would be well. 2 hours later the bus hadn't left yet but the driver kept insisting it would only be 10 min. So we didn't move off our seats. The eventual journey was 6 hours with approx. 130 people on the bus. Sardines would have thought that tight.
Terry was fuming by the time to Khajuraho and shouted in very un-Terryish at a few people.

Anyway, having arrived everything became very nice. Very nice Hotel for incredibly cheap (we kept looking for the catch) and the temples in Khajuraho were very impressive. they had been built about 1100 AD and then "lost" until a Brit Army officer fell upon them a(about 1860) saying they were "more warmer than there was any need for them to be." In his Victorian English he was trying to say that many of the statues were very erotic. You can judge for yourself from the pictures as to whether they are Art or Porn. To be honest there wer'nt that many rude sculptures but it was good fun keeping an eye out for them (and listening to other tourists giggling away.)

We're now on our way to Varanassi; apparantly the oldest city in the world. The old go there to die as anyone who pops their clogs in Varanassi gets instant enlightenment.

Sorry, no pics today as they cannot be downloaded (Terry says due to India's double standards on chastity)

We send you our love and hope this finds you all well.
Terry and Claudi

PS In Jaipur we went to see our first Bollywood blockbuster: Vivah! It was a 3 hour movie about a couple bt. engagement and marriage. Very touching (no really even though it was in Hindi and quite cheesy.) We'd recommend it!

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Comments

[Tony & Louise]

Hello again
It's been great keeping up with your adventures. We got your email and will share the things around when they arrive. Everything is OK here and number 450 is fine. Have a great time in Goa and our love and best wishes for Christmas. Louise